Basic Mods to Race Prepare a Street GT3?
#1
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If I was to prepare a 997.2 GT3 for regional class racing (SCCA and Canadian equivalent competitions), what are the 'minimum' set of modifications required for optimum performance & reliability?
I am just starting out and would appreciate a recommended list of upgrades, based on any proven race experience:
At the moment, the car has the following mods:
- RSS X-Pipe
- BMC Air Filter
- Wheel Alignment Set up for Mild Track Use
- Pagid RS Brake Pads
Considering:
- RSS Roll Cage
- Lightweight Battery
- More Aggressive Wheel Alignment Set up
?
I am just starting out and would appreciate a recommended list of upgrades, based on any proven race experience:
At the moment, the car has the following mods:
- RSS X-Pipe
- BMC Air Filter
- Wheel Alignment Set up for Mild Track Use
- Pagid RS Brake Pads
Considering:
- RSS Roll Cage
- Lightweight Battery
- More Aggressive Wheel Alignment Set up
?
#2
RL Technical Advisor
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Hi,
You should install a good, certified roll cage, race seat, 6pt harnesses, to start.
After that, you can really improve the handling with a good set of adjustable shocks such as Motion Control, and Cup rear toe-links.
You should install a good, certified roll cage, race seat, 6pt harnesses, to start.
After that, you can really improve the handling with a good set of adjustable shocks such as Motion Control, and Cup rear toe-links.
#3
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Never going to argue with Steve, ever.... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The RSS roll bar is a nice unit, we like them. Harnesses and a proper seat make a world of difference. You can't appreciate the difference they make until you have been on track with and with out to compare.
Get an agressive street/track alignment and then go have some fun. See how the car handles with the way you like to drive. Either adjust the car or your driving where you see fit. There are plenty of good options for spring/shock packages, brake pads, wheels, tires, toe links, upper links etc.... but get a feel for the car first and decide where you want to spend your money once safety is taken care of.
Cheers
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The RSS roll bar is a nice unit, we like them. Harnesses and a proper seat make a world of difference. You can't appreciate the difference they make until you have been on track with and with out to compare.
Get an agressive street/track alignment and then go have some fun. See how the car handles with the way you like to drive. Either adjust the car or your driving where you see fit. There are plenty of good options for spring/shock packages, brake pads, wheels, tires, toe links, upper links etc.... but get a feel for the car first and decide where you want to spend your money once safety is taken care of.
Cheers
#4
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If I was to prepare a 997.2 GT3 for regional class racing (SCCA and Canadian equivalent competitions), what are the 'minimum' set of modifications required for optimum performance & reliability?
I am just starting out and would appreciate a recommended list of upgrades, based on any proven race experience:
At the moment, the car has the following mods:
- RSS X-Pipe
- BMC Air Filter
- Wheel Alignment Set up for Mild Track Use
- Pagid RS Brake Pads
Considering:
- RSS Roll Cage
- Lightweight Battery
- More Aggressive Wheel Alignment Set up
?
I am just starting out and would appreciate a recommended list of upgrades, based on any proven race experience:
At the moment, the car has the following mods:
- RSS X-Pipe
- BMC Air Filter
- Wheel Alignment Set up for Mild Track Use
- Pagid RS Brake Pads
Considering:
- RSS Roll Cage
- Lightweight Battery
- More Aggressive Wheel Alignment Set up
?
For safety, if I was going to race my GT3, I would go with the factory Clubsport cage which is welded into the car and will give the car additional stiffness. I would also want to address the coolant hose couplings which are known to fail under high pressure and change coolant to Water Wetter.
You will need to consider a few brake modifications. Stock rotors won't hold up long. Castrol SRF brake fluid. Performance Friction is a pretty popular way to go on pads and rotors. You will also need to look at brake cooling. I am moving away from Pagid RS because of brake fade on the GT3. If you have PCCB, I believe most people take this out for big reds.
On the suspension, we lower the car and switch in cup car suspension parts so we can lock in the adjustments.
Spend some time in the paddock with the other guys who are racing a similar car. They will be able to advise what is working and what they have tried at the tracks you plan to drive. You may also be able to pick up some of their discarded parts to get you started.
You don't say where you are from but most of the teams who race in ALMS and Rolex also set up cars for club racers.
From my experience, it is cheaper to buy someone else's race car that is already 80% setup than to build from scratch. You can always buy a car at far less than the previous owner has invested.
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Agree with others, all depends on what class you plan on running with. However, the factory clubsport cage is not a weld in roll cage. The rear mounts to the rear shock towers and the front half of the cage is bolted down onto plates that are actually welded to the chassis. Big difference between a full weld in cage.
#7
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First thing - get a rule book from each and every series that you are considering running. Then read CAREFULLY, make notes! See what is mandatory, what is allowed, what is prohibited.
There have been numerous occasions where someone has purchased and installed a roll cage, or a seat, or belts, or double adjustable shocks, etc . . . then discovered that THIS sanctioning body does not allow it.
Example: I knew someone who had a fab shop build and weld in a roll cage using 1 1/4" tube . . . . only to find the rule book clearly stated . .1 1/2" tube . . . . . .
Rule books are cheap, modifications are not!
.
There have been numerous occasions where someone has purchased and installed a roll cage, or a seat, or belts, or double adjustable shocks, etc . . . then discovered that THIS sanctioning body does not allow it.
Example: I knew someone who had a fab shop build and weld in a roll cage using 1 1/4" tube . . . . only to find the rule book clearly stated . .1 1/2" tube . . . . . .
Rule books are cheap, modifications are not!
.