Tips on repainting my 951?
07-14-2002, 01:07 AM
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Tips on repainting my 951?
I am ordering a new fiberglass header panel and two new front "wide" fenders from GT-Racing. The fairing, doors and rear quarter panels need to be repainted while I am at it. I have a lot of experiance spraying laquers and fine wood finishing but have never done a two-part automotive paint before. I have a very good compressor and a professional Binks cup gun and want to know what is involved. I am respraying it Gaurds Red so no metalic paint problems. Also, it doesn't have to be show-car quality as this is my track car. I want it to look good though.
BTW, I will pull the doors and most of the trim and glass will have been removed including the hatch. This should make masking simpler.
I assume I will be using an acrylic enamel. Any suggestions on paint (don't need the $1,000 stuff), reducers, solvents etc? Should I use a paint pot? How many PSI's on the air pressure? Any bodyshop guys on the board?[/
BTW, I will pull the doors and most of the trim and glass will have been removed including the hatch. This should make masking simpler.
I assume I will be using an acrylic enamel. Any suggestions on paint (don't need the $1,000 stuff), reducers, solvents etc? Should I use a paint pot? How many PSI's on the air pressure? Any bodyshop guys on the board?[/
07-19-2002, 12:00 AM
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Just like anything else it's all in the prep work.
Sound like you're doing it right...trim off..windows out etc. Take your time to do it well. Make sure you have it straight by spraying a guide coat of a different color primer of your base primer...block sand the top coat. The parts that sand through quick may be high spots and the low spots will remain untouched. I would recommend a good base coat/clear coat ( Dupont Chromabase/clear is a good system but there are others. The great thing with base coat clear coat system is that the color coat only has to be thick enough to cover...less chance of sags, runs etc. That will dry flat..no sheen. The clear will add a brilliant gloss and if you do screw it up..run, sag, dry spray etc, it can be carefully sanded out and buffed so that you will never see it. (1000 grit followed by 2000). I have had great results with no real prior training. Just take your time. Good luck.
Sound like you're doing it right...trim off..windows out etc. Take your time to do it well. Make sure you have it straight by spraying a guide coat of a different color primer of your base primer...block sand the top coat. The parts that sand through quick may be high spots and the low spots will remain untouched. I would recommend a good base coat/clear coat ( Dupont Chromabase/clear is a good system but there are others. The great thing with base coat clear coat system is that the color coat only has to be thick enough to cover...less chance of sags, runs etc. That will dry flat..no sheen. The clear will add a brilliant gloss and if you do screw it up..run, sag, dry spray etc, it can be carefully sanded out and buffed so that you will never see it. (1000 grit followed by 2000). I have had great results with no real prior training. Just take your time. Good luck.
07-19-2002, 01:51 AM
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Thanks for the advice. Do you recommend a HVLP sprayer or a suction type gun. My Binks is a suction cup gun and have been told that a HVLP will do a better job. Any suggestions?
