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for a track car, I would recommend aluminum HVAC tape and call it a day. It won’t be pretty but it will do the job.
That's a pretty easy-to-do option and i agree, it would likely work just fine... until you wanted to remove the duct. I've got some garage door weather seal that i'm going to try to make something with... if that fails, i've got a roll of aluminum hvac tape that i can slap on there. Thx for the suggestion.
Wrapped up this side project (pun intended) and installed some rubber gasket to seal the side rads after AC condenser removal.
I used some garage door seal that i bought at home depot for $10 and some rivets.
Added the rubber seal on both sides of the side rad ducts.
After reinstalling the duct with the rubber seal sitting inside of the closure it appears to limit open airflow significantly and should be the fix i was looking for. almost no light (air) sneaking through. not much light coming through here, either.
An update... i finally got the car back on the ground and did a test drive. immediately upon start-up i had a litany of warning messages and none of the PASM, Sport or PSM buttons would function. I assumed that this was due to the car sitting, off battery, for over a month. Luckily, i was correct and they all resolved within a 5-10 min drive.
The one issue that is related to this thread, is that both radiator fans in each wheel well came on, full blast, at start up and stayed running full blast the entire easy drive and parked back in the garage. Water temps only came up to operating temp and stayed... i figured i may have had a coolant bleed issue.. but that turned out to not be a factor. Doing some searching on this forum i found that it is most likely due to a high-pressure sensor on the A/C getting triggered, thus requesting maximum condenser cooling (only way it can do that is by turning on the rad fans). Since i don't have the A/C system in place, this sensor will need to be dealt with. If anyone has an idea on how to simulate an A/C system being 'okay', i'm all ears. Otherwise, i'll just pull the fan sensors and manually switch them via a dash switch. TIA.
An update... i finally got the car back on the ground and did a test drive. immediately upon start-up i had a litany of warning messages and none of the PASM, Sport or PSM buttons would function. I assumed that this was due to the car sitting, off battery, for over a month. Luckily, i was correct and they all resolved within a 5-10 min drive.
The one issue that is related to this thread, is that both radiator fans in each wheel well came on, full blast, at start up and stayed running full blast the entire easy drive and parked back in the garage. Water temps only came up to operating temp and stayed... i figured i may have had a coolant bleed issue.. but that turned out to not be a factor. Doing some searching on this forum i found that it is most likely due to a high-pressure sensor on the A/C getting triggered, thus requesting maximum condenser cooling (only way it can do that is by turning on the rad fans). Since i don't have the A/C system in place, this sensor will need to be dealt with. If anyone has an idea on how to simulate an A/C system being 'okay', i'm all ears. Otherwise, i'll just pull the fan sensors and manually switch them via a dash switch. TIA.
See if u can find the tech specs in the sensor. It should give u the ohm rating for the opperating range. Use a resistor in-line to simulate a good reading.
May not be as easy as just adding resistors? Im a ME not an EE so im not that sure.
I am using a cheap computer 12v to 5v converter to simulate a 5v signal to simulate a signal voltage on my truck. Maybe u can cut the voltage on one of these with a couple diods?
03-09-2024, 12:05 PM
