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*** MOD 6 *** Tarrett Front (28.6 mm Dia.) and Rear (25.4 mm Dia) Anti-Roll bars
I went with the stiffest bar available. Compared to stock these are heavy so this is not a weight saver. The rear is easy to install - maybe 30 minutes. I used the stock links as they lined up perfectly with the bar holes on each side with the rear wheels off the car and car supported on front wheels and rear jack points. The fronts are a bit more work - maybe 2 hours if you've done it before. The stock links are too long so I used Tarrett's links - one of them is as short as I could possibly make it. The other side was maybe two turns longer. Short street ride and these feel great. I think I set rears at full soft and fronts one hole from soft. I'll have to adjust once on the track.
The Base comes with dark grey calipers which are the same as the red CS brakes. The previous owner painted mine red and did a terrible job - I wish he would have left them grey - less maintenance.
When my stock pads are gone I will mount Ferodo DS 2500 pads, and when the rotors go I'll upgrade to Sebro slotted rotors. Larger brakes all around is on my watch list but probably the last thing I'll do.
I run on street tires and semi track pads like you. You don't have to go slotted, the drilled ones should not crack at the temps that we run them and will allow -20f at the pad wich is good to keep the street pads in their operating temps. You may have to blow compress air through the holes between track day for that to work.
@Vince- Agree - so far no issues with brakes - no cracks in discs. My dream set-up would be the AP Radi-Cal brakes all around. The stock brakes so far are outperforming me and no fade in 20-25 min stints.
Here is another Mod - Front shock tower brace. I went with Racing Dynamics carbon, but I must say I was not pleased with them. The kit they sent had some serious engineering issues.
The mounting brackets that bolt to the three studs of the coil-over had such a large radius that the nuts would not seat flat on the bracket.
I am all for large radiuses, but the nut not seating flat is dangerous - If I had torqued that down I could have bent or broken the stud. Not to mention the unsightly installation as the nut gouged the bracket. When I pointed this out to Racing Dynamics, their first "fix" was to send me some smaller nuts. Since the radius started before the edge of the through whole, the nut would have to have a diameter smaller than the stud. After much haggling they said to send it back and they would fix it. They finally did but it took 6 months. The other thing they fixed was the length, the original one was too long.
If you bought a Racing Dynamics front brace, please check your mounting nuts to bracket - they need to seat on a flat surface. If they don't - send them back - tell them I told you to.
My first DE event of 2022 at The Ridge, WA. Went well. Beautiful day - almost 50 degrees and dry. No leaks in the cooling system, the anti roll bars were an improvement, helped with body roll and reduced understeer. I had them set at min stiffness rear, and one hole from min at front. The rear end would break loose with mid-corner throttle so I am going to stiffen up the rear for next DE. I ran with Turn 2 organizers and they run a great event - got in 7, 20 minute sessions. By the end of the day I felt I was getting my shifting down much better. My best time was 2:06.79. I wish I can find my first track day time (that SD card is around here somewhere), but I don't think I was any faster. I did conclude that I need a shift light. It is too hard to watch the tac anywhere but on the straight. I shifted based on sound which is not very precise. Also on downshifts I was not always going into a low enough gear. Carteck Shiftlight ordered!
The other addition to my data logger I am going to make is to add an OLED display to give me real-time delta time and delta velocity to fastest lap. I find I do not really have time to study the data between sessions to learn where I am gaining/loosing time. I am hoping the OLED will help with that.
I may have solved one other problem - unwanted downshifts at full throttle. A number of drivers complain that the car will down shift when the pedal is floored - very unsettling to the car (and driver). I removed the button on the back side of the throttle pedal, a snap on plastic part that engages the kick-down switch. So far no unintended kick-downs.
I removed the passenger front seat (and tool kit) to save some weight, but also to make room for jacks, etc. Has anyone tried to carry two front tires in the passenger area? I suspect they won't fit, but thinking that the fronts wear more than rears and if I can carry the front track tires that might give me a bit more tire life.
I forgot to mention my new office - Seat, belts, steering wheel, paddle shifters - all huge improvement over OEM. The 6 pt harness really keeps you in place and lets you relax. Seat is quite comfortable even on 2.5 hour drive to track. Paddle shifter was awesome - not a single missed shift and paddles seem to be in good position. I think I'll get a seat for my passengers.
I dove in the deep end and went for the full monty on a street legal suspension setup:
1. 18x9 F, 18x10 R APEX VS-5RS Wheels
2. 245x40 YOKO A 052 F, 275x40 R
3. KW Clubsport coil-overs
4. Monoball LCAs
5. rear adj toe links
6. lowered car and aligned for -3.5 camber front, -3.0 camber rear
I'll post some photos - did the alignment myself using the string method and the car handles great.
Also installed de-cat headers, shift lights, and upgraded my Video VBox to add a OLED
Winter projects include PDK pan replacement with alloy pan and new filter, passenger race seat, and install Sport+.
*** MOD 3 ***
You spied it in the previous photo - installed a new steering wheel with proper paddle shifters. The wheel is a Sabelt Wheel SW-635, Suede, black 350 mm, Dish Flat, NO STITCHING from ebay. The wheel has to be flat to work with the Night Pager Paddle Shifters from Nengun. As far as I can tell the shifter is the same as Works Bell except it is silver anodized vs black and the paddles are aluminum vs carbon fiber. I made my own paddles anyway so if I get a chance I'll anodize these black. I ordered a set of Works Bell but they have been on back order for over a year. Sabelt racing steering wheel and paddle shifters
I am really happy with this set up. 350mm is perfect size for me. I was worried that it would be hard to get into my new race seat without a removable steering wheel but it provides enough room. The horn button is a Momo unit that I modified to fit and I like the look. The wheel feels great in the hands and the paddles fall right at my middle finger so it is one-finger shifting. Shifts are very precise and the action is nice with a good tactile feel. The throw on the paddles is adjustable, I have it set for pretty short throw. I used an NRG SRK-183H steering hub and an NRG 1/2" spacer to get some room between the paddles and the turn signal wand (I may go to 1" spacer, the window wiper wand is still a bit close). To get the wiring right I Ohmed out the old steering wheel orange connector, and then purchase a used Porsche steering wheel wire harness on ebay and rewired it. I cut the airbag connectors off the wiring harness and installed 2.7 Ohm resistors across each pair of leads. Still have some issues - horn does not work and the airbag light stays on. Not sure where I could have gone wrong - any help is appreciated. I did get the shifting wired correctly. I installed a connector in between the paddle shifter and the wiring harness so that all components are easily removable for maintenance. I completely disassembled the paddle shifter just to see how it is made and was impressed with quality. It is a simple momentary switch and would be easy to replace if it ever failed. I made the paddles out of carbon cloth and cut to the desired shape.
I love your build! I practically copied your steering wheel setup for my dad's cayman. I was wondering if you ever got the horn figured out? I got the paddle shifters wired but can't figure out the horn. Thanks!
I never did get the horn sorted, and a horn is so simple right! There must be something in the wiring that recognizes a non standard setup and some switch is not getting closed. Let me know if you find a solution.
I never did get the horn sorted, and a horn is so simple right! There must be something in the wiring that recognizes a non standard setup and some switch is not getting closed. Let me know if you find a solution.
I just got it sorted out. Looking at the connector, the top left is the wire that originally connects to the horn on the stock steering wheel and acts as a ground. The next opening over is the other horn wire. My horn is just a button so it might work differently than your actual center horn, but I have the two wires on my horn button connecting to those two spots. So slots 1 and 2 are the two I am connecting my horn to. Does that make sense?
Do you have any hints of oil starvation in corners?
Do you have a deep sump pan?
I'm told this is a required Mod?
Starvation isn't an issue on the .2 and later models. Excessive oil temperatures are the #1 issue and adding a deep sump is specifically done to address these high oil temperatures.
11-21-2021 | 12:51 AM
