Thanks for the update. I am watching your thread closely patiently waiting for your updates!

 

🛠️ What You Need (besides coilovers)
1. PASM damper load resistors 4 × 2.7 Ω / 100 W wire-wound resistors. Simulates PASM solenoid resistance, prevents “PASM valve fault” errors.
2. Air suspension load resistors (if leaving valve block plugged) 4 × 6 Ω / 50 W (one for each corner airbag solenoid). Optional additional 6 Ω / 50 W resistors for vent/fill/bypass solenoids.
3. Mounting / heatsinking Aluminum plate or secure metal chassis mount. Keeps resistors cool and safe under PASM pulsed current.
4. Diagnostic / coding tool Recommended: Autel MP900Z / MP808TS / MS906 Pro or PIWIS for calibration and coding. Budget option: iCarsoft POR v3.0 / v4.0 can clear codes but has limited coding. ---

⚡ Step-by-Step Procedure

1️⃣ Install resistors PASM damper plugs: Bridge each two-pin connector with 2.7 Ω / 100 W resistor. Air suspension plugs (if valve block left in): Bridge each corner with 6 Ω / 50 W resistor. Mount resistors on aluminum plate or metal bracket to dissipate heat. Ensure connections are solid (solder + heat shrink recommended). ---

2️⃣ Calibrate level sensors Read live suspension values with your scanner. Adjust each corner to ~+5 mm in Normal/Sport mode to balance the car: Corner Normal/Sport Target RL +6 mmRR +6 mmFL +5 mmFR +5 mm Sport+ mode will then lower ~9–10 mm evenly, preserving proper Sport+ behavior. ---

3️⃣ Clear fault codes Use your scanner to erase PASM / air suspension DTCs. Power cycle ignition and verify no errors appear. ---

4️⃣ Optional coding for better reliability Air Suspension Module: Code as “not installed” if you remove compressor/tank/valve block. Vent / Fill Solenoids: Code out if not using valve block. PASM Module: Some scanners allow “disable damper manipulation” while retaining Sport+ function. Jack Mode / Lift Functions: Already turned off to prevent auto-raising. Adaptive Suspension Warnings: Some scanners allow disabling cluster warnings. ---

5️⃣ Test & verify Check live sensor values after calibration. Short test drive in Normal, Sport, and Sport+ modes. Monitor resistor heat — adjust mount if they run too hot. ---

✅ Benefits Eliminates suspension errors (PASM / air suspension). Maintains Sport / Sport+ lowering behavior. Ride height is even and safe. Protects ECU from “open circuit” faults. ---

⚠️ Disclaimer This guide is for informational purposes only. Performing modifications to your vehicle’s suspension or electronics is at your own risk. Incorrect installation or calibration can result in faults, loss of functionality, or safety issues. I am not responsible for any damage, errors, or consequences that may arise from following this procedure. If you choose to attempt this modification, you accept full responsibility for the outcome. Consult a qualified Porsche technician for professional guidance.

 

🔌 PASM Resistors

4 × 2.7 Ω / 100 W aluminum shell resistors

Price: $10–15 each → about $40–60 total


🔌 Air Suspension Solenoid Resistors (if keeping valve block plugged)

4 × 6 Ω / 50 W aluminum shell resistors

Price: $5–8 each → about $20–30 total


🧊 Mounting & Heat Management

Aluminum heatsink plate or bracket: $10–20

Thermal paste or pads (optional, improves cooling): $5–10


🔧 Wiring & Supplies

Automotive wire, solder/heat shrink, terminals, loom wrap: $15–25



---

💰 Total Estimated Cost

Minimum setup (PASM only): ~$70–100

Full setup (PASM + air solenoids): ~$100–140

 

Calibrating your level sensors is highly recommended, when you do it, be sure you are IN the car despite what the actual procedure says.

✅ Step 1 – Prepare the Car Park on a flat, level surface. Set tire pressures correctly. Make sure driver weight is in the car (either sit inside or add ballast ~150–200 lbs). ---

✅ Step 2 – Connect Diagnostic Tool Use PIWIS, Autel MP808, or another scanner that supports Level Control / Calibration. Navigate to:Level Control (Nivomat/Leveling System) → Adjustments → Calibrate Level Sensors. ---

✅ Step 3 – Read Current Values Each corner will show a deviation in millimeters (example: FL –6, RR +3). 0 = Perfectly within range. Values outside ±10 mm usually trigger “implausible” faults. ---

✅ Step 4 – Enter New Calibration Values Input adjusted values so that all four corners are as close to 0 as possible. Example: If FL shows –6 mm, add +6 mm in calibration. If RR shows +3 mm, enter –3 mm. (Think of it like balancing: you’re zeroing each corner.) ---

✅ Step 5 – Save & Store Save calibration values. Cycle ignition OFF → ON. Clear any stored faults. ---

✅ Step 6 – Test Drive Drive normally, then recheck live data: Each corner should stay near 0 mm ±5. If values swing wildly (e.g. –11 / –9 while driving), recheck sensor arms and recalibrate again. ---

🔑 Key Notes Always calibrate with driver weight in seat — otherwise, car will complain once you drive. Staying within ±5 mm per corner is usually enough to prevent “implausible” faults. You may need to recalibrate again if you change coilover height significantly.

 

I have never had coilovers on any vehicle I've owned before but the suspension on my Panamera is horrendous at 108,000 miles with original suspension. I was planning on just doing OE parts (Bilstein) but now I'm considering the SF racing coilovers you got. What I want to know is with their coilovers, is it possible to get the same level of comfort as original? I'm not looking into lowering aside from very minimal for just slightly better look and I'm not looking for better handling by making it stiffer.

 

You can come close to the level of comfort but not the same. It's like comparing Apple to Android, but you can get ready close to the same comfort.
I would suggest contacting the company prior ordering to see what they suggest in terms of spring rate and possibly suggested damping and rebound settings. The spring rate and dampening and rebound are the main things that make your car feel like a go kart (harsh ride) or feel like a old school Cadillac (floaty).
I keep SF RACING 's suggested spring rate 18k, but set the damper to mid way, even with the ride height I have to me the car feels smooth but feels more connected when it comes to more technical driving.
On a side note, if they don't offer other spring rates, you can always get the whole thing and go to Swift Springs to get a softer rating spring. Mind you the higher the spring rate the more stiffer, the lower the softer the ride but you risk damaging the shocks.

 

How is damper/stiffness adjusted on the coilovers? I'm assuming for lowering and raising rideheight there is adjustments you can make with the wheels off and the gear around the spring? Is it damper settings accessible without taking off wheels for front and rear?

 

Damping (compression): Controls how quickly the suspension compresses when the wheel hits a bump. Softer = more comfort, wheel moves easier. Stiffer = less body roll, sharper handling, but harsher ride. Rebound: Controls how quickly the suspension extends back after being compressed. Too fast = bouncy ride. Too slow = suspension feels stiff and can lose grip.

Yes you have to loosen the locking collar to adjust the ride height, yes you have to take off the wheel. As for adjusting the dampening you don't necessarily have to remove the wheel.
In the case of the panamera you just have to lift the car up to get the full view of the adjuster gear for the rear struts, and for the fronts you have to open the hood/bonnet and remove the engine cover to access the **** for the front struts

 

great job @mrkim ... i too have a 12 Turbo S .. 112k miles i drove the car daily 40k miles since 2022 lol.. after the 120k mile service and it sat for 3 weeks at my indy since i was at carweek.the front starts sagging after taking the car home ... no errors... but after startup it takes 2-3mins for the car to go back to normal.. so not sure if its a coincidence it didnt have an issue before i took it for maintenance... thinking the fronts started leaking for being on high .jack mode for weeks? hmm... i was just researching if I should replace the fronts or go strutmaster... but after seeing your post SF Racing might be a way to go.. still trying decide for now gonna find out why fronts sag after overnight parking if its really air bag leak ..
thanks for all the info .. appreciate this post...

 

@alex911s personally I wouldn't fully jump to getting some coilovers. But would definitely monitor if your air bags are leaking.
I suggest spraying some soapy water at the air bags itself and the air lines.
Replacing the air bags isn't that easy to do, BUT still doable, just a pain in the butt to do.

You went to car week? I tried to go on the last day, but decided to do something else. My wife lives in Monterey Bay majority of her life, so it isn't new to us, plus the fact that lots of influencers were at car week. Just simply didn't cool to go anymore.

But yeah definitely monitor your air suspension for now...

 

Currently testing other resistors, but definitely in the right path.

I started out installing 50w 6ohms on both Air suspension and PASM side of the harness. So far it's perfect for the air suspension side. But kept getting some sort of error on the PASM side, the ohms weren't that happy. I changed it to 50w 3.3ohms, got closer but got a error only went in SPORT PLUS, so what to take out of this NORMAL and SPORT mode completely fine. But when I want to use SPORT PLUS an error. Used 100w 2.7ohms, successful BUT, I'm getting a short on the REAR LEFT... Which is weird, possible I may have a slightly damaged harness, but when I switched back to a 50w 3.3ohm resistor just for that corner everything is fine, but can't stay on SPORT PLUS.

So my main goal as of right now, is finding the right type of wattage that will allow me to stay on SPORT PLUS for a long period of time. The car seems happy with the 50w but not really with 100w, ohms are correct with 2.7ohms... currently ordered a few different types of resistors.

 

Thanks will try to locate the leak...
and Yes Ive been going yearly for 20 years and this year was the craziest too many influencers lol...
i went to Quail and did some test drives , wifey came up Saturday took her to Aston, BMW, Range Rover and Porsche she loves the Macan Turbo EV uggh lol
. ill start a new thread with pic dont want to highjack your thread lol.. but heres the road legal 963 RSP, Corvette concept , Gordon Murray, Hennessey some of my favs.

 

We don't say that horrible word "EV" in my house 😂 😆

 

So chasing trying to figure out what can "trick" the PASM is a lot of back and forth with different resistance of coils. But I have concluded that it's fairly happy with a 100w 3.3ohms until the car reaches 14.4v as I drive around.

So this leads me with 2 options.

1: Bite the bullet and purchase a fairly bulky "PASM" cancellation kit, which honestly the Panamera really has no space for it even in the rear.

2: Bite the bullet and get a professional grade scanner or PIWIS clone to code out certain functions so I can still keep the important functions such as Sport and Sport plus.

As always I will keep everyone updated...

And have the final setup hopefully soon. 😮‍💨

 

1st of all.. wow not one shop I reached out to or dealership even replied back when I asked for help... Goes to show either no one cares or no one is interested or love to gatekeep.
But thanks to a fellow Rennlist member who was kind enough to let me borrow a copy of his PIWIS to me so I can explore and play around with it in a VM virtual machine.
What I have discovered even with PIWIS in engineering mode I am simply not able to find a feature where I can code out certain things on PASM.
The goal was to code out anything suspension related in PASM meaning how it monitors the shocks/struts and maintain the Sport and Sport Plus.
But I may have found a way to just disable the air suspension parts and that's it...
So what am I left to do? Seeing that PIWIS is making translate German to English in engineering mode and trying to find the menu to code out what I need is really the cleanest way yet difficult thing to do... Seeing even the Internet/YouTube don't really show how to do so.
There's no point in getting an aftermarket scanner like a Autel even if you were to get a "professional" grade scanner. It's going to be the same situation, you simply won't have access to that menu or sub menu.
I've thought about even looking for a Panamera that didn't have PASM and swap out the modules and code it to my car, but it appears all Panamera trim levels have PASM 😮‍💨 so I'm basically back trying to figure out my original problem.

What's truly left? That's to get a PASM emulator/cancellation/delete kit...
But with what is in the market are for other models of Porsche that came with PASM. Ohlin and KW really have it for other models and even if you contact them about it they will just say "Yeah it'll definitely work for your panamera..." Suuurrreeee buddy suuurrreeee.
What confuses me and most likely keep me slightly awake at night would be the fact that there was a company in Malaysia that sells coilovers and a solution on how to disable PASM... But are they fully disabling the PASM system or just coding out the suspension portion? I'll never know...

In regards to the PASM emulator/delete/cancel kit... I found a company in Quebec which states that they have one specifically for the Panamera and it's half the price of what Ohlin, KW sells for their kits.
I'll purchase them and give you guys a review from plug in and at least a week to a month worth of driving around with it.

So far sure fire way of doing the coilover conversion.

You definitely need a scanner that can change the values of the level.
4 50w 6ohm resistors for each shock.
A PASM emulator/delete/cancel kit...