Recently acquired a 2015 PTTS / 65K kms. After some time I noticed the front became wobbly and harsh (especially noticeable on speed bumps) and the car pulled to the right. There's no sound from suspension.
So I took it to the indy shop where the previous owner serviced it (and has warranty, but not for suspension) to check everything and do the alignment.
They came back with a report claiming that the right strut is leaking, the left air bellow is "weak" and that's why I'm facing issues and they can't do the alignment. Needless to say, the overall bill is quite astronomical to replace both struts and bellows. While I was preparing myself mentally to take the hit, I called up the local official dealer and asked them about prices on those parts. Unbelievably, they turned out to be a bit cheaper, so I decided to take the car to them for a second opinion/possible work.

So after the inspection the dealer came back with a report which left me speechless: none of the proposed replacements aligned with the indy report. The dealer said
"*Suspension bushes are weak and need to replace the suspension control arms intially and check the performance on test drive."
And to replace the following:
42112003 - 2 Trailing arms rear replace
42901030 - Rear stabilizer mounts replace
42355600 - 2 Upper control rear arms replace
43185501 - Front RHS level sensor replace (BROKEN)

How can the two reports be so different? Which one seems more plausible? What do I do? Bite the bullet (pay the dealer a hefty diagnostic fee) and take it to a third shop?

 

Interesting notes from the dealer, as all the parts (except the front level sensor) are parts for the rear. If the rear upper control arms (6 in total - 3 on each side) have degraded bushings, you would also notice issues with the rear feeling loose. Same with the rear sway bar mounts... I am actually in the process of upgrading my rear control arms to new poly bushings (sourced from Poland), so quite familiar with these components. And, to be honest, have not seen many of these in need of bushings replacement (I purchased four total sets of rear control arms/lower control arms for prototype work) - I am just installing poly in an attempt to tighten up the rear.

So... that said, if the rear bushings are spent, you will need new control arms. Also, I do suspect you front control arms - upper and lower - are also due for replacement, as well as the sway bushings and end links. With a car this heavy, it does place quite a bit of stress on the steering/suspension components and they do wear out quicker than other Porsche models (with the Cayenne being a notable exception).

You really need to do a cost analysis of the suggested repairs vs. the dealer diagnostic fee. Taking it to a third shop could either clear this up, or take you down another rabbit hole. Decisions, decisions... none of which are inexpensive.

 

Thanks for your reply. I was so shocked by the difference in the reports, I didn't even notice the dealer's one was all about the REAR control arms. Now I'm shocked even more.

So if the front feels wobbly (esp on speed bumps) is that likely to be the struts/bellows or control arm bushings?

I guess I'll pay up and take the car to the third shop.

 

A few thoughts:
1) Air suspension bags are a maintenance item - particularly on the front where most of the weight and wear is. They last about 10 years (not a Porsche specific thing - its just like any other high end air suspension).

So I would replace the front bags proactively given the cars age rather than wait for the inevitable failure that would be more inconvenient and expensive. FVD sells fantastic replacements for about 900 each. Good time to replace upper control arms as well (also a 10 year maintenance interval - if you want the car to be perfect) since theres no extra labor while doing the bags.

2) Most dealers are similar (good quality work, overpriced parts and labor). Indy shops have a massive variation in quality and pricing. Finding a great one is worth its weight in gold and should be your first mission as a new owner.

Use this opportunity to get your car inspected / opinions from a few shops. It's worth paying the $150 or whatever each to look at it, if only to get a sense of how they operate and to find the right long term partner in your ownership experience that can save you thousands of dollars and lots of grief by doing an honest great job on everything and keeping your car like new for low cost.

 

agree with the above ^^^^

Sources of front wobble can be far and wide - upper/lower control arm bushings/ball joint, inner/outer tie rods, worn sway bar bushings/links, air shocks/struts, and rarely on the Panny, wheel bearings/hub assembly. One challenge you may find is shops will not openly accept parts you bring to them... why? for many reasons, but primarily cost. Meaning, they add large mark ups to parts... and #2, there is also a parts liability issue or wrong parts issue.

So... yes, take the car to location #3 and try to get them to provide some clarity. You may just have to eat the cost of the expensive Porsche dealership diag costs...

 

Thanks all. Spoke to the #1 shop and the dealer again. A little bit of clarification:
- FL upper and FL lower arms were actually replaced half a year ago @ shop #1
- Dealer says nothing wrong with front suspension, the rear control arms need to be replaced and the levelling sensor
- Shop #1 says I need to change the front struts because they are "weak", no mention of anything related to control arms.
- taking the car to shop #3

Dealer charges $700 for the inspection.. that's why i was trying to get some advice online before I decide to take the car elsewhere.

 

When you say that it's "wobbly" what do you mean? You mean you go over, say, a speed bump, and the front kind of wobbles side to side? Or it kind of pogos, going up and down more than once before it stops?

 

again, how much is the quote to repair the rear? will the dealer then forego the $700 diag cost? if the delta is insignificant, they yes, get the work done at the dealer. with the clarity you provided above, I would tend to follow the guidance from the dealer...the front struts are usually a go/no go, so if they are currently holding air and not leaking fluid, then get the rear sorted and press on.

 

I don't know what "pogos" means, but I'm guessing it's the latter. The initial hit on the speedbump is harsher than it used to be, and then yes.. it feels like it it's doing the up and down thing a bit more than it's supposed to.

 

~$4900 for the rear and the front levelling sensor.

Yes, if I do the work with them, they will forego the $700.

The reason I am in a state of anxiety is that I feel there's something wrong with the front, it's not as compliant and comfortable as it used to be. Even if the rear is broken, how does that address my complaint?
Could the levelling sensor alone cause so much mess and pulling ? When I gave the car to them there were no error codes. I actually used an OBD WiFi scanner about a week prior to these events because of a faulty coil (which I successfully replaced) - there were no codes for suspension.

I've got only tomorrow's day to decide due to some other circumstances.
Appreciate all the help guys.

P.S. In any other country I would just go with that the dealer tells me. I have qualms about their competency in this particular part of the world..

 

Ok , the dealer is most likely right . Let them deal with the issues and see what you get ? Dealer sees more of the issues than anyone else .Cars as sensitive as Panamera's need proper care sometimes cheaper to pay ?

 

Did you end up resolving this? Having similar problems myself

 

I left the car in the third shop for the summer. Told them to diagnose the front suspension and change everything they can to fix it by the time I come back.
So the changed the rear control arms (like the dealer said) and front struts/air bellows.

Fast forward 3 months later, I get the car. The wobbling is gone, but now there's a clunking sound in the front (left, I think).
Unfortunately, looks like I've stumbled across an overly honest shop. They changed the parts they thought were blown, but their examination concluded that everything else seemed fine. Why they didn't notice the clunking sound during test drive is beyond me.

So now the plan is to change these:

 

Porsche tech here.... I am of the mind that if you are getting conflicting stories, have the shop "show" you what is damaged or failing. Subjective words like "weak" do not sit well with me, so show me what is wrong and why they need to be replaced. I'm glad you got the wobble resolved, but the cluck can come from one of many places: The front upper control arms are notorious for failing and causing a clunk (having done dozens in my career) and are fairly easy to diagnose. Just have them pop the balljoint off the wheel carrier (upper), and if the arms swivels freely up and down, its toast. They can fair quickly if they or any other control arm are not installed properly. They have to be torqued at the proper position, otherwise the bushing will tear. Since it was replaced before, this may have happened again. Or they just forgot to tighten a nut/bolt.....
Good luck!