Andypandarific

So, the other evening, i got the red failure pop up briefly, maybe only 5 seconds. Sports Plus de-activated while driving.

I pushed the Sports Plus button and it worked, the warning light also did not stick. Doesn't feel like a real issue.

The lift system is still working, the car maintains balance well and it can go through the different height modes.

I'm starting to think it's an electrical communication issue - anyone have experience or ideas about that ?

When i first read out codes, i had around 12 issues, 2 weeks later, i'm reading out 30 issues. Parking brake, for example - it works perfectly well. Would it also explain the reason why the compressor blew a fuse and went weird for a while, based on a faulty input from communication / CAN BUS ?

djdonte

The iCarly is really only good for ODB codes if I'm not mistaken. You need a bidirectional scan tool or a PIWIS to really diagnose this.

Andypandarific

Gotcha, so there are different types of codes that can be read by different levels of tool?

djdonte

I could be wrong but I think Carly is just an OBDII reader. Searching on google it sounds like it can do a little more, but for 99 bucks I doubt much more. To really diagnose this, you need a real scanner like a shop would use. These will show you live data from the modules and sensors. It could help you diagnose a leaky shock that keeps needing air fed to it for example. These can read manufacturer specific codes as well as perform manufacturer specific tasks like relearns, adaptations and module resets. They read more than OBD fault codes. Autel makes the cheapest ones I've seen. I used an Autel to reset an SRS light and it was very robust. Someone else on here recommended Topdon. iCarsoft is very popular too and sells a Porsche specific model. I myself have a PIWIS 3 clone that I have only used for coding so far.

Andypandarific

Thanks.

I've arranged with the car salesman to take it back to his shop and he will help me to check it.
I hope he had access to some kind of more professional scanner, I believe he does, he did ask if my pre sale maintenance.

It's a 4 hours drive, haha. Nice road trip.

wqassaqw

I have a 2010 970 4S and I recently went through the same situation and I didn’t have a clue how to fix it with no dealership or Indy shop within 300 miles where I live so like you, I went to Rennlist and found threads upon threads of people experiencing the same problems (6 speedonline was also very helpful) I wound up replacing the air pump and valve block. I purchased a used Lenovo laptop and purchased and downloaded the piwis along with a nitrogen tank and fittings. And now I’m back on the road and running correctly. All this for less than a grand using non OEM parts of course If I had to do it again I would’ve made my first purchase the piwis it’s a tool you’re gonna have to get sooner or later. If you do the work yourself, there are some good YouTube videos also the one that really helped me get in the right direction is Tomorrows Tek he has one video that can hook you up with Mars S. the piwis guru

Marcus13190

Hi how many quantity of azone it's necessary for refillind ?

djdonte

Mars S is sharp for sure. I bought a used thinkpad as well for my PIWIS clone as well.

Andypandarific

Thanks for sharing wqass. Car is in "the shop" and under checking. I had been sharing my stories with the dealer and he indicated his initial thought is a small leakage somewhere.

I suspect that he might have known about this when he sold me the car. They provided me with a loner, which he didn't have to do. I had been reporting "suspension noises" shortly after i took ownership of the car and i did have 1 time chassis failure in the beginning (now that i think back on it). However, nothing perspired after that initial month. I have a feeling the "wailing noise" is something to do with the front left driver side suspension and perhaps he also clicked on it, but hoped it would go away.

Anyway, he's willing to check it out and repair once finding the problem, at least he shows some kind of responsibility or accountability to support me to get it fixed. After searching other indie stores, he eventually offered his help to me.

I drove 350km there, checked in the car, he gave me a loaner and i drove 350km home.....desperate times lead to desperate measures.

I'm expecting an update later this week on what they could find. Maybe need to investigate the PIWIS in future, the cheap OBD reader is really not so extensive.

wqassaqw

Man that’s a good for you it would be nice if all car dealers rolled that way hopefully they get it fixed correctly and that will be that

Andypandarific

Update : Fixed (for now).

After my self fuse fix, it was going ok for a week.

Drove 325km and dropped the car off, mechanic suggested the compressor was dying out, so i ordered one online (aftermarket - AEROSUS, 2yr waranty) The Porsche OEM was 50% surcharged here, compared with Germany. They replaced the compressor, fuse and relay and did not report any leaks from the inspection. fingers crossed, good to have the car back.

I paid about 600USD, compared to 2000USD for the total work with OEM part.

huskeric

Andy,
That's fantastic and good to hear you have these matters resolved.
By chance, do you have still have the failed compressor? If so, I would be interested in purchasing as I rebuild them. Yet one of the many other projects...

Andypandarific

​​​​​​Actually, yes, I kept it. I heard about these refurbished ones and thought I could investigate the cost to keep it as a backup.
The current one has warranty, so I don't expect to need it any time soon.

huskeric

And that's a good idea... also, realizing you are in Japan, shipping costs to the US would probably be costly.

As for the rebuild, it's actually quite simple after you've done it once... it's just like a puzzle, knowing what goes where.
Regarding the actual rebuild kit, I have discovered the only things needed are the piston and piston seal. The o-rings that are on the current compressor are over-engineered and have not come across any that leaked, so just down to replacement of the piston and cylinders in most (not all) cases. On the other hand, if the electric motor is seized or brushes bad, then probably best destined for the bin.
Here is a link to the piston/cylinder...
I plan to do a complete write-up in the future, but far back in the project queue.
Send me a PM if I can be of any further assistance.

rick