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Any idea how to remove the A pillar trim? Im stuck and I dont want to break anything. It seems on other p cars there is a clip that needs to be manipulated with a pick. I cant find anything on out cars tho, only 970 so far.
I never did actually take off that trim, but certainly thought about it. So much so that I found a picture of the trim on eBay in an effort to see what the clips look like. Here's a pic of the A pillar trim on the right/passenger side. I was ultimately able to squeeze the cables behind the trim without removing it.
The plastic thing above the orange cable has a clip thats not visible which needs to be pressed with a pick to disengage it. You have to do this with about 3/4 in of clearance. Sucked at first but once I figured it out it was not awful.
I got everything installed. Weirdly enough I did not have a circuit on 12 of row B, and 11 was always on. Row C, fuse 12 was switched. Thats the opposite of what you said. Also I now have a service airbag warning when I start the car. I'm sure I pulled a fuse I wasnt supposed to with the battery connected. Can I reset this with an icarsoft?
Just checking, but are you sure you're counting from 12 to 1 from left to right? That's how they're numbered.
Yes, sorry I forgot to attach this picture. I am counting 12 from left to right. My car does not have 4 way AC, so no touch screen in the back. Row B 12 is smartphone tray, rear. There is no metal contact on the load side there.
Yes, sorry I forgot to attach this picture. I am counting 12 from left to right. My car does not have 4 way AC, so no touch screen in the back. Row B 12 is smartphone tray, rear. There is no metal contact on the load side there.
So, you used B12 for the switched and C12 for the always-on, is that right? If so, that's consistent with what I intended in my fuse references above (both circled in row B are switched; the one circled in row C is constant). I think we may have just gotten our wires crossed... haha, pun intended. 😆
So just to confirm the top row is B right? I have no fuse or even metal for a circuit at B12, I am using B11 as a constant, and C12 for switched. Weird because the manual shows three rows and there is only two.
I read your post again and moved my switched to C2, rear seat ventilation, which I do not have. Better than messing with C12 PVTS. See my picture, I have an empty spot at B12, so using B11 for constant.
Im almost thinking the manual is wrong, or B is not the top row lol?
Everything works as it should, EXCEPT for my service airbag light.... I ordered a iCarsoft 3.0 to reset it. There's no way I damaged any wires or disconnected an airbag. I'm pretty sure I threw the code testing for hot/switched with the battery installed. I did try disconnecting the battery for 30 min and it did not work. I did however find a starguard GPS hooked to the battery. Funny because the dealer wanted 1300 for it. I told them no and they said they would take it off. I'm betting it cost them 30 bucks.
So just to confirm the top row is B right? I have no fuse or even metal for a circuit at B12, I am using B11 as a constant, and C12 for switched. Weird because the manual shows three rows and there is only two.
I read your post again and moved my switched to C2, rear seat ventilation, which I do not have. Better than messing with C12 PVTS. See my picture, I have an empty spot at B12, so using B11 for constant.
Im almost thinking the manual is wrong, or B is not the top row lol?
Everything works as it should, EXCEPT for my service airbag light.... I ordered a iCarsoft 3.0 to reset it. There's no way I damaged any wires or disconnected an airbag. I'm pretty sure I threw the code testing for hot/switched with the battery installed. I did try disconnecting the battery for 30 min and it did not work. I did however find a starguard GPS hooked to the battery. Funny because the dealer wanted 1300 for it. I told them no and they said they would take it off. I'm betting it cost them 30 bucks.
Yes, top row is B. I believe row A is actually in the passenger door jamb. To your point, the manual is certainly not clear.
As for the airbag light, that's funny, because I had the same thing happen wiith my emergency brake light while testing fuses. Completely unrelated, but I bought a scan tool to code a new battery that I installed. After coding the battery, I cleared all codes and the emergency brake light warning went away. So, I think you'll be good once you clear the codes. 👍🏼
Thanks for all the help. I’ll let you know what happens with my icarsoft. Which scan tool did you buy? The only other thing I saw was an 800 dollar Aurelia from FCP euro. For my last Panamera, everything on Amazon that said it would work, would not reset the yearly service light on my last 971.
I suppose if it works, 300 bucks is not a bad investment. I have a 60k/6yr service coming up, so perhaps it will pay off if I can change my oil and plugs myself, reset the service light and pay a euro shop to do the PDK.
Thanks for all the help. I’ll let you know what happens with my icarsoft. Which scan tool did you buy? The only other thing I saw was an 800 dollar Aurelia from FCP euro. For my last Panamera, everything on Amazon that said it would work, would not reset the yearly service light on my last 971.
I suppose if it works, 300 bucks is not a bad investment. I have a 60k/6yr service coming up, so perhaps it will pay off if I can change my oil and plugs myself, reset the service light and pay a euro shop to do the PDK.
Happy to help. I ended up getting a Top Don tool off Amazon for $400: TOPDON Bidirectional Scan Tool,...
I ordered the Top Don scanner since I can get it next day instead of waiting for weeks from China like iCarsoft. What else have you been able to do with this scanner? Can you bleed brakes and reset the service interval light? If so and it clears my SRS code, I might keep this one and return the iCar as this one is universal and the iCar is Porsche specific.
I have always just homemade DIY fuse taps from a fuse.
This is how I installed my dashcam and radar detector in my 970 fusebox.
20 seconds with a dremel tool to expose the top of the fuse conductor leg, and 20 seconds with a soldering iron. Give it a wrap of kapton or electrical tape and you're good to go.
Image stolen from GIS, not my video. But the end product I make is identical to this picture (minus the wrap of tape).
Someone let me borrow an Autel and I reset the airbag code. It was an intermittent open/short of some SRS circuit, so surely I threw the code pulling fuses. All good now. I already ordered the iCarsoft POR 3.0, so I will use that for service reminder resets and whatever else.
I ordered the Top Don scanner since I can get it next day instead of waiting for weeks from China like iCarsoft. What else have you been able to do with this scanner? Can you bleed brakes and reset the service interval light? If so and it clears my SRS code, I might keep this one and return the iCar as this one is universal and the iCar is Porsche specific.
I haven't actually tried to do anything else with it yet, but I do believe it can do all that you mentioned.
03-11-2024, 10:32 PM
