Thanks

 

See attached pdf file
Bob

 

thanks for all

 

Big shout out to the OP Bpossel (Bob) for putting his brief tutorial together. Very helpful. Great idea to print it out and have as a reference while doing it.

I just swapped out my battery with one from Costco (Interstate AGM H8) Made in Germany. Around $160. I have the theory all of these batteries come off the same assembly line, including ones that come from the dealership. I also was able to code it into my car using iCarSoft 3.0. My battery appeared to be original to my 2017. No issues, just preventative maintenance.

I'm a pretty aggressive DIY'er when it comes to cars. Honestly, this was the hardest battery swap I have ever done in my life. Bar none. Took around 2-3 hours. I could do it again much quicker, but still, what a pain. Why on Earth does Porsche have to make things so difficult? I just did an S-Class Mercedes in the same day, also in the trunk. Same battery size. 10 minute job. I have done countless battery swaps over the years, they normally are easy.

Just to give some more advice, TAKE A PICTURE OF THE SERIAL NUMBER OF NEW BATTERY BEFORE INSTALL. If you plan to code the battery, you need this. On my particular Interstate, it's coded into the side and not viewable again without removing the battery.

That styrofoam holder for the road hazard kit is a real pain that slows it down. this part alone is a lot of why the job is frustrating. I wonder if you can remove other trim first? It eventually came out, but you almost have to nearly break it to get it out. Plan on taking it to the point of crushing it. You sort of pull the right side up and then out. I came close to just cutting it, I think you'd be fine slightly modifying it. But I was able to remove and put back in. Slightly squished. My other piece of advice is just detach every large wire that has a nut. If something looks detachable, plan on detaching it. Don't fool yourself thinking you can keep things together. It will just slow you down and make it more frustrating. Wrap things in like gloves/tape and pull them out of the way. There was one additional positive cable attached with a nut that I found it easier to just remove. Also, a good idea to TAKE A PICTURE(S) to know where everything goes. Have a place to keep all hardware organized.

Also, I attached a trickle charger to the jump start points under the front hood so I wouldn't have any memory loss or issues while the battery was disconnected.

Again, after doing it once, could do it again in under an hour, but Porsche doesn't make any routine maintenance easy on this car.

 

Thank you. I think I’m due for a new battery, 2018. Negative terminal on my Varta battery is stamped 29th week of 2017, so I m due new battery.

So, is it required to program/ register?
this article say yes. https://www.midtronics.com/blog/batt...-how-to-do-it/

new battery from Walmart is $169.or Duralast at 250. The weize battery is a Chines brand and only been in business since 2017 so not doing that.

I may go with Duralast, change myself and since I’m going to dealer for nail in tire (got wheel, tire windshield when I purchased) Thursday, have them register. It is BS you can’t register through PCM.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Weize-Pla...nty/5074420134

the electrical connections are much more complicated than my 2017 Cayenne but easier to get to. Middle of trunk on the ST but tighter then it have to be.

 

I did mine on my 2018 myself. I bought the carsoft scanner from Amazon and registered the new battery. Before that my voltage was reading at 14.8 sometimes 15 volts now it’s only showing 12.8-13 volts while driving. So yeah it’s a good idea to register the new battery. As for the battery swap, it’s not too bad, you just need basic tools and an extension to reach that left side battery tie down bracket

 

Agree, these battery swaps are easy, from an electromechanical point of view. The battery location for Panamera and Cayenne is better than MB GLE/GLS. I changed a W166 GLE battery under the passenger seat. Mildly inconvenient but not a big deal for intermediate and higher DIYer.

I notice, to your benefit, the vehicle negative cable includes a LIN connector, because the AGM battery does not have on-board LIN electronics. This is a big fail from Porsche on 9Y0.1 with LiFePO4 batteries.

The factory negative cable in early 9Y0.1 does not have a LIN connector, and rather the vehicle side plugs into the battery. So if an AGM is installed in a 9Y0.1, which originally came with LiFePO4 battery from the factory, there would be no connector for the vehicle-side LIN harness. Installing a new negative cable from a late 9Y0.1 we (the community) believe is a solution, but no one has tried it because most 9Y0.1s are still under factory or CPO warranty. Modifying the electrical system would surely be a reason for a dealer to deny warranty coverage.

The LiFePOS battery is $2k+ for parts and Porsche charges $1k+ for installation and "registration". $3k+ total cost out the door. Big fail by Porsche.

 

I changed my battery yesterday, about 1.5-2hrs of work. In Bob’s instruction, step 11-12 remove tool kit styrofoam.
I moved this step ahead of Step one.
Removed the two tiedowns loops for rear floor, 4 screws and removed the entire floor panel.
then removed the tie down loop on left side panel, yellow circle.
Then I removed the trim piece in green circle. It is held in place with two screws and a clip. The screw by the rear of car, push panel trim out of way to expose. The clip is forward by seat back. Pop off, unscrew and slide the panel towards back seat.
Need to lift up left side panel to free the plastic trim.
with the plastic trim (green circle) removed, a lot more access.
The left panel is held down by the tie down loop screws and two clips, no need to pop the clips.
Remove tools from styrofoam, remove styrofoam tool kit

 

Step 13 - this is 13mm.

 

I replaced with Duralast Platinum AGM Battery BCI Group Size 95R 950 CCA H9-AGM myself. Asked a dealer to register battery. They had problem with registration of Duralast serial number and used a Varla serial number. Now I’m getting start/ stop function not working.

Any one else have had same problems?

 

Humm. Usually the serial number has nothing to do with anything. Its more of a check and balance thing. I have a Diehard battery from Advance Auto Parts in mine and I have no issues. I just coded the size and type of battery and was fine. I just made up a serial number and it was fine. I coded mine using the Icarsoft Por 3.0 scanner.
Have you monitored your battery voltage while driving? Does it always stay around 15v? or does it come down after a bit to in the 13's? If your voltage is always staying up around 15 and won't come down, I suspect an issue with the new battery. The system is looking for the battery to be able to hold enough load so when it goes into stop start, the battery won't go down to low where the engine cannot restart.

 

The SOC (state of charge) of the battery needs to be at a certain level for the start/stop feature to operate. It doesn’t mean the battery is bad, it just needs to be charged up to the minimum SOC level because even though it’s a new battery you don’t know how long it’s been on the shelf. I would recommend turning the start/stop feature off and do longer drives for a couple of days to charge the battery up. It usually takes a while to charge.

 

I was in the shop to also replace a tire (puncture, I have tire and rim warranty) so ignition was probably on for a long time on the new battery. Took if for a long drive today, 1hr. Start/stop working as normal. Battery charges at 13.3/4 but I saw a few times it surges to 15, up and down and takes about 15sec.

I will drive for a week and keep an eye on it, it the surges continue I will have the battery checked.
thank everyone.

 

My dealer (Indiana) charged $850 to replace and register the battery. Just a data point for you

 

Pretty good, compared to $3k out the door to replace a Cayenne LiFePO4 battery...