Left rear door will not lock
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Left rear door will not lock
I’m hoping this is a simple fix, or maybe someone can at least point me in the right direction.
My left rear door will not lock. Not with the fob, the button in the car, or the door handle buttons.
Any ideas on where to begin finding the culprit?
My left rear door will not lock. Not with the fob, the button in the car, or the door handle buttons.
Any ideas on where to begin finding the culprit?
#2
Have you tried switching the child locks on and off a few times? If the mechanism is stuck, that might do something. Easy first step anyway. If it was me, I would be taking off the inside door panel to check the wiring and see if the lock is even trying to actuate. Hopefully there is an easier way, but with no other guidance, that's where I would be.
#3
Hey Chris,
I had this same problem, (same door interestingly) it came down to a faulty door lock actuator. I was quoted $1200 at an indy to replace (with $400 for part included). I ordered an aftermarket lock actuator from uroparts, about $100 (we'll see how it holds up), and did the job in 3 hours this weekend. I have a '10 Panamera turbo and needed T45 security bits, T20,25,30, M6 triple square (dont skip this, added an hour to the job when I used a Torx) and some trim removal tools. The shop manual PDF on this site has instructions.
A buddy had to help me because one of the layers of the door with the glass hangs from some wires and needs to be held up. Otherwise reasonably straightforward. Definitely not worth $1200.
Paul
I had this same problem, (same door interestingly) it came down to a faulty door lock actuator. I was quoted $1200 at an indy to replace (with $400 for part included). I ordered an aftermarket lock actuator from uroparts, about $100 (we'll see how it holds up), and did the job in 3 hours this weekend. I have a '10 Panamera turbo and needed T45 security bits, T20,25,30, M6 triple square (dont skip this, added an hour to the job when I used a Torx) and some trim removal tools. The shop manual PDF on this site has instructions.
A buddy had to help me because one of the layers of the door with the glass hangs from some wires and needs to be held up. Otherwise reasonably straightforward. Definitely not worth $1200.
Paul
The following 2 users liked this post by cogent22:
Dartmouth (08-08-2024),
Jan-Åke_Klement (05-31-2024)
#4
Hey Chris,
I had this same problem, (same door interestingly) it came down to a faulty door lock actuator. I was quoted $1200 at an indy to replace (with $400 for part included). I ordered an aftermarket lock actuator from uroparts, about $100 (we'll see how it holds up), and did the job in 3 hours this weekend. I have a '10 Panamera turbo and needed T45 security bits, T20,25,30, M6 triple square (dont skip this, added an hour to the job when I used a Torx) and some trim removal tools. The shop manual PDF on this site has instructions.
A buddy had to help me because one of the layers of the door with the glass hangs from some wires and needs to be held up. Otherwise reasonably straightforward. Definitely not worth $1200.
Paul
I had this same problem, (same door interestingly) it came down to a faulty door lock actuator. I was quoted $1200 at an indy to replace (with $400 for part included). I ordered an aftermarket lock actuator from uroparts, about $100 (we'll see how it holds up), and did the job in 3 hours this weekend. I have a '10 Panamera turbo and needed T45 security bits, T20,25,30, M6 triple square (dont skip this, added an hour to the job when I used a Torx) and some trim removal tools. The shop manual PDF on this site has instructions.
A buddy had to help me because one of the layers of the door with the glass hangs from some wires and needs to be held up. Otherwise reasonably straightforward. Definitely not worth $1200.
Paul
I've never seen a door break apart into three layers like that. Normally you just have the door card/trim that comes off and everything else is inside the shell of the door.
You might be able to rig up a stand to hang the inner door section from, but I can see how having a helper would be helpful.
The following users liked this post:
Jan-Åke_Klement (05-31-2024)
#5
I have the same issue with the left rear door. Its annoying too because anytime you open it to load something without first unlocking the car, the alarm goes off. Hope someone has an answer.
EDIT: Oops I had a old page open, and didnt see the replies.
EDIT: Oops I had a old page open, and didnt see the replies.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hey Chris,
I had this same problem, (same door interestingly) it came down to a faulty door lock actuator. I was quoted $1200 at an indy to replace (with $400 for part included). I ordered an aftermarket lock actuator from uroparts, about $100 (we'll see how it holds up), and did the job in 3 hours this weekend. I have a '10 Panamera turbo and needed T45 security bits, T20,25,30, M6 triple square (dont skip this, added an hour to the job when I used a Torx) and some trim removal tools. The shop manual PDF on this site has instructions.
A buddy had to help me because one of the layers of the door with the glass hangs from some wires and needs to be held up. Otherwise reasonably straightforward. Definitely not worth $1200.
Paul
I had this same problem, (same door interestingly) it came down to a faulty door lock actuator. I was quoted $1200 at an indy to replace (with $400 for part included). I ordered an aftermarket lock actuator from uroparts, about $100 (we'll see how it holds up), and did the job in 3 hours this weekend. I have a '10 Panamera turbo and needed T45 security bits, T20,25,30, M6 triple square (dont skip this, added an hour to the job when I used a Torx) and some trim removal tools. The shop manual PDF on this site has instructions.
A buddy had to help me because one of the layers of the door with the glass hangs from some wires and needs to be held up. Otherwise reasonably straightforward. Definitely not worth $1200.
Paul
#7
Intermediate
It turns out that you can rebuild the actuator. All that's wrong is a $5 motor that is hanging up. Since the motor only turns a few revelations back and forth all the time, it kind of wears in a blind spot, so to speak. Once you've removed the original actuator from the door, you can open it up and you will see the motor inside. The motors are available on Ebay. There are a couple of videos on YouTube showing how this is done on multiple different makes of cars, all with the same motor. All you have to do is transfer the small gear from the old motor to the new one. There are no wires, there are 2 terminals that the motor sits on for the electrical connection. I took the old motor and put it on a 12 vdc power supply and the motor didn't want to run. But after rapidly cycling the power back and forth and spinning it with my fingers, it finally took off running like it should. I replaced it anyway as it was just $5!
All manufactures these days don't waste their time making little things like this since almost every manufacture has auto lock doors that basically all work the same way. Just the shape of the actuators is different, but it's the same motor worldwide! (or at least in the US, Japan, and Germany)
All manufactures these days don't waste their time making little things like this since almost every manufacture has auto lock doors that basically all work the same way. Just the shape of the actuators is different, but it's the same motor worldwide! (or at least in the US, Japan, and Germany)
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just to update, swapping out the actuator is all it took to fix the problem.
There are 2 door panels that need to be removed, the outer one (the one that matches your interior and is leather wrapped), and the inner one which holds your window mechanism among other things.
The biggest difficulty is removing the 2 little bolts that hold your exterior chrome trim onto the door panel. There are 4 that hold it in place, but the 2 that are difficult are accessed through the slot where your window rolls down. You will want to use a piece of wire wrapped around the heads of the bolts, after you have loosened them, to prevent them from falling into the door itself.
Otherwise, this is pretty straightforward. Consider this a 60-90 minute job, and get a friend or bribe your kid to hold the door panel while you remove the actuator.
There are 2 door panels that need to be removed, the outer one (the one that matches your interior and is leather wrapped), and the inner one which holds your window mechanism among other things.
The biggest difficulty is removing the 2 little bolts that hold your exterior chrome trim onto the door panel. There are 4 that hold it in place, but the 2 that are difficult are accessed through the slot where your window rolls down. You will want to use a piece of wire wrapped around the heads of the bolts, after you have loosened them, to prevent them from falling into the door itself.
Otherwise, this is pretty straightforward. Consider this a 60-90 minute job, and get a friend or bribe your kid to hold the door panel while you remove the actuator.
The following users liked this post:
Jan-Åke_Klement (05-31-2024)
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It turns out that you can rebuild the actuator. All that's wrong is a $5 motor that is hanging up. Since the motor only turns a few revelations back and forth all the time, it kind of wears in a blind spot, so to speak. Once you've removed the original actuator from the door, you can open it up and you will see the motor inside. The motors are available on Ebay. There are a couple of videos on YouTube showing how this is done on multiple different makes of cars, all with the same motor. All you have to do is transfer the small gear from the old motor to the new one. There are no wires, there are 2 terminals that the motor sits on for the electrical connection. I took the old motor and put it on a 12 vdc power supply and the motor didn't want to run. But after rapidly cycling the power back and forth and spinning it with my fingers, it finally took off running like it should. I replaced it anyway as it was just $5!
All manufactures these days don't waste their time making little things like this since almost every manufacture has auto lock doors that basically all work the same way. Just the shape of the actuators is different, but it's the same motor worldwide! (or at least in the US, Japan, and Germany)
All manufactures these days don't waste their time making little things like this since almost every manufacture has auto lock doors that basically all work the same way. Just the shape of the actuators is different, but it's the same motor worldwide! (or at least in the US, Japan, and Germany)
For what its worth, Uro makes the actuator for Porsche, Audi, and a number of other cars. You can get the same actuator, without the Porsche logo on it for under $100.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsear...num=8K0839015A
Thats what I ended up doing.
#10
Thanks guys for all the great info. Looks like I'm going to be doing this soon. My rear left door is also having trouble. Seems to only lock or unlock sporadically.
Has anyone done this on a rear door with the automatic sun shades? Does that complicate it at all?
Has anyone done this on a rear door with the automatic sun shades? Does that complicate it at all?
#11
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
mine has the sun shades. It’s a non issue. Just pop off the plastic trim, it’s three pieces, then remove the interior panel.
#13
Guys where am I going wrong. I almost have the inside panel off but its clearly still attached somewhere. I think I'm missing the 4 screws that Chris mentioned but I cant find them for the life of me. Where are they at? (circled part is what still feels attached)
#14
Cheapo911, This video might be helpful.
Seems to me like you haven't gotten the 4 bolts that hold the chrome trim on the outer shell to the middle layer of the door. There are 2 accessible when you roll down the window and look from the inside towards to bottom of the chrome, one closer to the hinge edge of door hidden under rubber weather stripping, and one closer to the latch end of door, also hidden under weatherstripping. To the left of your red circle there should be a bolt if you pull away a flat rubber piece.
Seems to me like you haven't gotten the 4 bolts that hold the chrome trim on the outer shell to the middle layer of the door. There are 2 accessible when you roll down the window and look from the inside towards to bottom of the chrome, one closer to the hinge edge of door hidden under rubber weather stripping, and one closer to the latch end of door, also hidden under weatherstripping. To the left of your red circle there should be a bolt if you pull away a flat rubber piece.
The following 2 users liked this post by cogent22:
Jan-Åke_Klement (05-31-2024),
JPhi1618 (02-03-2022)
#15
Cheapo911, This video might be helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mszVn0-lScM
Seems to me like you haven't gotten the 4 bolts that hold the chrome trim on the outer shell to the middle layer of the door. There are 2 accessible when you roll down the window and look from the inside towards to bottom of the chrome, one closer to the hinge edge of door hidden under rubber weather stripping, and one closer to the latch end of door, also hidden under weatherstripping. To the left of your red circle there should be a bolt if you pull away a flat rubber piece.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mszVn0-lScM
Seems to me like you haven't gotten the 4 bolts that hold the chrome trim on the outer shell to the middle layer of the door. There are 2 accessible when you roll down the window and look from the inside towards to bottom of the chrome, one closer to the hinge edge of door hidden under rubber weather stripping, and one closer to the latch end of door, also hidden under weatherstripping. To the left of your red circle there should be a bolt if you pull away a flat rubber piece.