Thanks for this amazing tutorial.

 

Wow just found this and am encouraged that this might be a more economical fix!

Curious on how its going after all this time?

 

I went through this 2 years back. My upper shock bushing was the culprit. I did manage to find a manufacturer in China but they wanted 500 pc min buy. They were around $1/bushing. I designed up some tools but didn’t confirm it was possible. Supporting the airbag top can to press the bushing out is really tough to do. I ended up just buying new bags.

 

O-rings are still holding just fine. I would not think the upper bushing could simply be pressed out and replaced. It's bonded to the collar to keep the air in.

 

If you want to replace the O-rings yourself, here's what to use.

Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, Super-Resilient, 3 mm Wide, 57 mm ID | McMaster-Carr

Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, Super-Resilient, 2 mm Wide, 11 mm ID | McMaster-Carr

 

Given the work involved, I'd just use the Porsche parts, but to each their own!

 

Why would you recommend the Porsche parts when it's obvious they are a weak link / common failure point, as documented in your own OP?

To clarify, I'm not recommending alternatives because they are less expensive (although it's a nice perk), I'm recommending them because they are better.

If you want better resistance to deformation (flattening/taking a "set"), get Viton O-rings. If you live in Alaska and regularly drive your air suspension below 0*F, get Buna-N O-rings.

Porsche O-rings are literally just rubber O-rings, they do not have some special German fairy dust that makes their O-rings different somehow. Porsche's Tier 1 (Conti in this case) gets the O-rings from any of several Tier 2 or Tier 3 O-ring suppliers, just like everybody else building things that need O-rings. An 11x2 O-ring is a commodity, paying $20 for one at the Porsche parts counter does not mean you're getting something special. You can easily get the same (or better, if you choose Buna-N or Viton) O-ring from any reputable manufacturer.

 

As I stated, to each their own. The Porsche rings lasted a decade and the second set will probably outlive the car.

You do you.

 

Yours lasted a decade, my car is on it's 3rd set in less than that. A service life of 30-40k miles on a spring/damper assembly is not OK in my book.

I don't understand why you'd want to replace a known failure point with the same low grade part, when there is a quantifiably better part easily sourced.

But... I don't have to understand "why" to defend your right to do it.

I agree: you do you, even if I think it's insanity, it's not hurting me. lol.

 

Let me clear some things up for you because you are obviously confused:

1. It is very odd that you care so deeply about what parts I decide to use on my car. Last I checked, you didn't pay the bill or do the work. Sit down, Francis.
2. I do not care what you think is ok. I could not care any less about your approval of my methods, part selection, or opinions.
3. I do not need to be defended by you. (LOL)

You posted your thoughts. You posted your links to your preferred part. People can decide to buy whatever they want. This is a DIY, not something set in stone. Do whatever you want to do to your car using whatever parts and methods you want to use. Take pictures. Make a writeup. Maybe someone will benefit. I will make sure to not wander into your thread, start middle-school drama, and call you "insane" for selecting part manufacturer A over manufacturer B.

Still confused? Please scroll up and re-read #2.

I lack the appetite for a dick-wagging contest, so you're on your own from here on out.

 

100% agree with @Shrike071 here. Im coming over to the Porsche world from driving and completely maintaining BMWs over the last 25 years. Early on (when I probably couldn't actually afford what I was driving) I learned my lesson on buying non-OEM parts, and have regretted every single time no exceptions! If you own cars longer than than 8-10 years you find yourself coming back and fixing things again; time is valuable... the more miles you get between repairs is the value return you achieve. I guess doing all my own work I've always felt like I make up the dealer margin and can sleep a bit easier spending 20+% sometimes for a OEM logo stamped on a part or plastic baggy

I've read a lot of your posts and threads @Shrike071 Thank for your help here and taking the time to post!

 

Has anyone tried introducing a lite oil like WD 40 into the system , you know just a bit into the air intake tube coming off the compressor every once and a while ? Seems like the dry is bad for the seals ?

 

Being it is designed as a closed loop system, I wouldn’t introduce any other containments in the system. Regardless of natural rubber, synthetic (ie viton), or other, oils are not the best for seal longevity. Lubricants typically assist with reduction of abrasion on the seals which is not the case for this strut. If the install is clean, some basic moly grease should be enough to help with the install.

The biggest contributor to rubber degradation is due to ozone and/UV light. Light is not a concern but ozone could be. The system pulls from atmospheric air is the nitrogen is depleted. IMO, making sure you have a nitrogen charged leak-free system will increase seal life more than others.

And to address your questions, the compressor has a desiccant based system. I would expect the desiccant to absorb some of the lubricant and reduce efficiency. Also, once you open the closed loop system, nitrogen is exhausted.

as with my standard disclosure, grain of salt.

And most importantly, cheers to all.