Shrike071

That would be my first look.

Stringbag

What codes is it giving you?

sp3000

I don't have a reader, but when they checked for leaks last time it was at Porsche they didn't find or mention anything. It is going for a service in July so I'm keeping records of what is happening and hopefully they can diagnose it. I'm worried as it's intermittent.

Stringbag

Hmm, doesn’t sound like a simple one to diagnose online - I’d let a specialist or dealer have it. Could be something as simple as a damaged or stiff arm on a level sensor up to the level controller itself.
Doesn’t sound like a leak if one side is going up!
A disconnected/intermittent signal from a sensor should show up as a code, as would a valve that was sticking in the valve block (valve open too long).
Good luck, I hope it’s simple (cheap!) & Let us know how you get on- always good to know.

sp3000

Thanks! Now the stiff sensor arm is an interesting idea...nice one, I wonder if I can check that in anyway to see what it's doing... I still have Porsche warranty and the dealer even said that now they have a record of me wanting them to diagnose the fault that even if they can't work it out now under warranty they have 9/10 times been able to have Porsche pay for the repairs should they work it out after my warranty expires. I still have another year and will probably keep the warranty again so I'm not too worried but good to know.

Stringbag

I wouldn’t bother. You’ve pre-paid for maintenance (aka a warranty) so let them fix it!
It’s not a binary system and without the correct diagnosis tools you are wasting your time. Plus if, if it is something stiff and you fix it temporarily only for it to come back the day after your warranty expires, when they would have replaced the part for free, that would be, well, irritating.
The level control module has dozens of inputs (steering angle, front and rear lateral and vertical acceleration, throttle signals, PASM modes, voltage and current at each strut and each level sensor, total air system flow rate, pressure and temperature to name a few.)
You need all that info to diagnose it I think.

sp3000

Yes, fair call. I'd just like to be able to give them as much info as I can so they find it if it doesn't present on the day they have the car. Best I can do at the moment is keep a record of what the car is doing..

needmoregarage

Ciaka - thanks for the very informative posts What year is the car in your original post?

Currently have a 2018 Pana4 bought new. No issues now, but for the first several months of ownership it had very odd electrical gremlins. A combination of software updates and battery tender solved the problems. Learned these cars are very sensitive to battery charge level and keeping it on a tender is beneficial as it’s driven only intermittently and can sit for weeks without driving.

sp3000

Latest thought is that it could be the valve block, but interested to see what you think. Car was high on the left and low on the right front. Once started up all back to normal, after driving and turned off the front right dropped 5mm and the front left went up 5mm and there it sits. Is it possible that the valve block is not closing properly once off?

sp3000

I finally grabbed a video of what is going on, excuse the wife and daughter in the background!
Car is set to normal mode I then park, turn off and I get out, everything sits fine, door closes and you see and hear in the video a noise and the suspension on the right lowers. As I mentioned this only happens sometimes, maybe 50/50. Any idea what the noise is and what is going on?

Stringbag

That’s your compressor.
It is self levelling - mine does it too, but it sounds like yours needs to be calibrated if it doesn’t sit level when it’s finished.

sp3000

Is it normal to run after the car is off like that? If it was a calibration issue do you think it can still be intermittent like that and work normally when the car is running? Thanks for taking the time looking at the clip.

Stringbag

Yes. Perfectly normal. That’s one of the reasons that you must put it in service mode before jacking it up!
It moves of its own accord, both whilst driving and stationary with the key out!
The only thing that not right is the final position - sounds like a broken/damaged front right level sensor to me. They are on the suspension arms (aka wishbones/control arms).
Either take the wheel off and have a look, or Turn the Steering wheel all the way to the left/right to see if you can spot any damage (the sensor is plastic, and the arms should be free to move, but it’s not inconceivable that some sand/grit has seized them up, or a stone bent or broken something).
If you need to replace it, it will need to be calibrated.
If it’s just dislodged, or a you may be lucky and be able to put it back.

Stringbag

Just has another thought whilst I re read the thread from the top.
how long have you had the car?
would this be an accurate description?
It seems that the final position it gets itself to, once it has finished moving (usually down) when the doors are closed and it’s adjusted for the change of weight of the vehicle once everyone has got out, is intermittent - sometimes it is level, sometimes down at the front right?
That sounds like a dodgy sensor.
if a previous owner has replaced a sensor and then not calibrated it, it would be down at the front right every time.
Either way you will need access to a tool that will Test and calibrate it (PIWIS for example). It doesn’t take long.

sp3000

Car is still under warranty and last time it was in for a service they checked for leaks etc and couldn't find fault. They replaced control arm bushings for noise and apparently are meant to re-calibrate after that (the notes suggest they did). The car is going in for a service in a week and I'm hoping they get to the bottom of this then.
If it was a sensor why would it only be off when parked and fine when on. When the car is running i've measured in all settings and everything is correct.