Hi Ahsai,

I have been reading some of the numerous threads on intermix/coolant and found out my recent 99 C2 996 purchase is showing symptoms of oil mixed in the coolant, but not the other way around. I had the car inspected by Porsche before the purchase and cant believe they missed this. Really concerned on the implications and would like some guidance if possible.

THank you very much.

Ur box full

Ok I've posted to the forum

Also waiting for news back from the Porsche Dealer

Hey Ahsai

Update broke down again today! But this time when driving - 20 minutes in car completely stopped all the startup lights on dash on.

Try restart same one crank then stops. Jump out lock unlock a few times then it works

But then less than 1km down the road stops again

I decide tow to Porsche dealer see if they have better computer diagnostics

This is first time stopped when driving though eventually restarted

I replaced fuel pump last year and as said immobiliser new ecu repaired

Weird!

This seems to be correct for your engine but please check on boschautoparts.com
$270, not too bad. You may as well replace the whole thing to eliminate the old one completely. Can leave the old one as a spare or rebuild.

http://www.partsgeek.com/mtkgt53-por...orsche+Starter

I know the solenoid is not seperately available for the starter of the N/A 996 but it's a different starter. You can google pics of your starter and see if you can see the p/n of the solenoid and go from there.

Just let you know drove to beach today 31c 80% humidity

Car sat for two hours when I started it no problems

So not sure heat related plus intermittent!

Sounds dumb but I kinda want it to fail not start then can isolate the issue with your tests

I'm really thinking starter or solenoid since don't most other things

Can you buy solenoid separate or only with starter?

Thanks again!

Ok got it - but I realistically have to wait till its failing to start again

Then the intermittent fault will show everytime engine stops cranking

I suspect many people have this problem but think it's flat battery so disconnect recharge reconnect - there's some kinda soft reset somewhere

I'll post up this week also keep track of progress

With a light bulb wired essentially at the solenoid, you can tell if the solenoid is getting power everytime you crank. If it cranks once and stops, you can see if the light is ON at the monent it stops spinning. If it is, then it's the solenoid/starter for sure. If the light is OFF, that means the power gets interrupted somewhere.

Then you can add the LED to the coil of the relay to see if the dme deactivates the relay at the moment the starter stops spinning.

So what happened is couple times turn key crank once stops, then lock unlock try again it's ok. But then it two - three times that didn't work eg no matter how many times lock unlock just turn once wouldn't start.

Garage tried everything thought was ecu immobiliser. So we repaired it eg ecudoctors said its fried. Got dme ecu key back this week - then it did it again?! Though did start afte lock unlock and later I park car all day, heat soak and cool down started again no problem

To do the test I need wait till total failure eg no matter what I try crank once won't start I think then it's not intermittent

Maybe disconnect battery is a red herring eg I'm guessing a lot people have this problem think battery low so recharge and it's ok but infact its underlying problem

Let me work on a posh tmrw at work

Thanks again! Great advice

You may want to start a thread or piggyback on this one so others can chime in and maybe learn too.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...olenoid-5.html

Starting in post #70, I mentioned a light bulb method to troubleshoot intermittent problems. That way you cut the problem in halves - the control side and the power side. It's some work to wire the bulb but it could give us more clues.

The control side is everything from the key immo pill, immo, dme, to the relay. The power side is the ignition switch, relay and the starter.

You case is strange that when the starter engagaes, it only spins one revolution or so and then quits (if I understand you correctly). And now it's even harder to explain after you said it's not temperature related.

Did it ever work better since the ecu/immo repair? Can you send those back to them to check again? A video showing the instrument cluster during a failed start up will help.