Kissdaring

So a bit of background I bought the car from a one owner about 7 months ago, the car has been serviced at Porsche, When i bought it it had the symptom's and its been somewhat my daily driver. The car drives fine and you don’t really hear the knocking sounds at highway speeds only around town and its fairly loud and annoying. The engine light is ON and you can hear some strange noise at the exhaust end, maybe a hanger? unsure if related but the nocking noise that's coming from the engine seems to be on the passenger side. I have pulled the codes and trying to diagnose this issue. Any help or guidance would be appreciated.

I did try to research but everyone's case differs and was unsuccessful at finding a solution.

P0302 - Misfire, Cylinder 2.

P2541 - Fuel low-pressure sensor: electrical fault

P1361 - Valve Lift Control, Cylinder

These are the only 3 codes I have under DME - DTC! I have attached all other none related or relevant codes to further diagnose.

Thanks guys.

VAGfan

Record all these codes, then reset all the codes, and drive the car a bit, multiple cold starts, highway driving......varied conditions. Then read out any stored codes, and post them here.
Then troubleshooting can begin.

And when you say "knocking" sounds, do you mean engine pre-ignition / pinging "knock", or something mechanical, like from the transmission/axles, brakes, body-rattles, suspension, exhaust ????

Was this car in a flood or collision?

Kissdaring

thanks for the quick response. My issue is mostly with the nocking of the engine. The codes posted under engine management is what’s concerning me. I am trying to tackle those. They are the ones that remain and wether I clear them or not the engine still knocks.

Kissdaring

Sounds like the engine is knocking


kind of like this video.

the sound is certainly coming from the passenger side. The codes posted above seem to point to valve lifter but unsure.

Kissdaring

So i spoke with the dealer and apperantly the car was there back in 2022 for check engine light and knocking at idle speeds. Also there was a coolant expansion leak that was repleaded at this time . They investigated the knock and engine light and took our the turbo which had damaged blades and removed the block i believe they said and found scorching in cylinder 2 hence im guessing all the codes related to cylinder 2. With cooler weather here in can and the poor design of the cooling plumbing within the engine block and the expansion/contraction rates of dissimilar metals in the engine heads. Essentially the cylinder got real hot because the cold coolant couldn't circulate fast enough through the motor as it was warming up.

Any suggestions or engine rebuild or swap is the only option here?

VAGfan

I hope you didn't pay much for this Macan....

How does the sparkplug look on cyl #2. Could also be a bad coilpack. Did you try changing those to see if the missfire goes away? Also check the coilpack ground wire connections on the top of each valve cover. The wire lug bolts should be clean and tight.

Do a compression test on all the cylinders.

It could be a worn cam lobe, or bad rocker/follower, or a bad lifter, or bad valve lift-control mechanism, which could also cause a knocking noise and a misfire.

Next worse issues are piston slap (perhaps with resulting cylinder wall scoring), or excessive clearance of a connecting rod bearing.

What makes no sense is some of the stuff the dealer told you: damaged turbo blades mean something was ingested by the engine, or perhaps the top crown edge of a piston broke off. You should boroscope the cylinders on the passenger side and look at the piston tops and the cylinder walls. If the turbo was damaged, did they install a new one???

I don't buy any of the discussion concerning that one cylinder got too hot because of insufficient coolant circulation and/or the expansion/contraction topics. Either the whole engine overheats (due to some cooling system problem), or not.

If it isn't a valve-train issue, which can be repaired by just pulling that one head off, then the entire engine needs to be pulled out and disassembled for inspection/diagnosis and rebuild. Or, replace with a used engine from a salvage yard. In any case, lots of time and $$$.