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I'm not really clear on when this is happening to people. Are you who are experiencing the tight threads doing so exclusively with replacement OEM housings, or is anyone experiencing it with the original OEM housing as delivered with the car?
In my case, I have performed 3 GT4 oil changes on 2 cars (one not mine). For each one, the filter change kit was purchased from Porsche with the element packaged with a new OEM housing and O-ring. Of those 3 changes I experienced the tight threads only one time, on the most recent change, November 2016. The way Porsche prices the filter package, there is no reason not to change it, well except for this tight thread issue...
I'm not really clear on when this is happening to people. Are you who are experiencing the tight threads doing so exclusively with replacement OEM housings, or is anyone experiencing it with the original OEM housing as delivered with the car?
Yes, replacement OEM housing from Suncoast. I bought the combo kit that only adds a couple dollars over the kit without the housing. I figured having a spare would be a good thing. I did not compare the 2 housings prior to using.
I'll bet I have 7 old housings from the 4 -981s I've had. Next time I change oil I going to see if some of the old ones go in by hand like they should . Then use that one with a new oring . The new ones go in way to hard . Don't know why? Carl
I'm not really clear on when this is happening to people. Are you who are experiencing the tight threads doing so exclusively with replacement OEM housings, or is anyone experiencing it with the original OEM housing as delivered with the car?
I did 4 oil changes prior to this one and used the originally delivered OEM housing for all 4. The original housing could be easily turned in by hand, even once the o-ring contacted it was still possible to drive it in by hand using a rag for some extra grip. For my 5th oil change, I bought the new housing/filter kit and the housing is a completely different fit. Couldn't drive it by hand. Why did I change the housing? Coz I'm a nerd, I suppose.
Bringing this back from the dead because I ran into the same issue this weekend when changing my oil. The problem is that the replacement housing I got from suncoast wont screw in at all without the filter wrench-even then it leaves about a 1/4 inch gap and won’t seal. No visible differences from the part I removed-same part number. The bad:
I drilled a hole in my stock housing to ease the mess of removal..so it can’t be reused. The good:
Suncoast is pretty cool and sending me a replacement (hope or doesn’t have the same issue)
To add, the filter housing i removed seats all the way up by hand-no wrench needed (similar to a regular filter on other cars). Kind wish I didnt drill that hole now...thankfully the car is on my lift in the garage and not in the way.
To add, the filter housing i removed seats all the way up by hand-no wrench needed (similar to a regular filter on other cars). Kind wish I didnt drill that hole now...thankfully the car is on my lift in the garage and not in the way.
I had the same experience at my first oil change about two years ago. The replacement housing I got from Suncoast was really difficult to screw in. Luckily, I hadn't drilled a hole in the original one, so I've been using the original housing ever since.
* I've always kept the Suncoast filter as a spare. Not sure why since it doesn't fit
I've been changing oil and filters on 987.1, 987.2 and GT4 for 10 years. I've never replaced the housing and they all screw in "almost" all of the way by hand, requiring a wrench for the last couple of revolutions.
Update: I noticed after the 3rd oil/filter change, the new housing I posted about earlier in this thread that was hard to drive on now drives on by hand all the way up to the o-ring contacting the metal sealing surface, then as with the new part, I can use a rag in my hand to get a better grip and drive it all the way up to final position. At that point I just give it a little snug twist with the filter wrench. Bottom line, the difficult housing loosened up after 2 install/remove cycles, and on the 3rd install was essentially like the original part.
Update: I noticed after the 3rd oil/filter change, the new housing I posted about earlier in this thread that was hard to drive on now drives on by hand all the way up to the o-ring contacting the metal sealing surface, then as with the new part, I can use a rag in my hand to get a better grip and drive it all the way up to final position. At that point I just give it a little snug twist with the filter wrench. Bottom line, the difficult housing loosened up after 2 install/remove cycles, and on the 3rd install was essentially like the original part.
Must be the pitch of the threads are slightly different. After its installed for awhile the plastic threads adjust to the metal housing and then go in easy?
Just a theory..carl
Must be the pitch of the threads are slightly different. After its installed for awhile the plastic threads adjust to the metal housing and then go in easy?
Just a theory..carl
I think it's just extra material on all sides of the threads and/or a slightly rougher texture to the thread surface. Wears off or flattens out or takes shape of metal threads over time with exposure to heat and being screwed in/out. That's what I think.
To provide an update on my situation-Aldo from Suncoast was more than understanding and sent me a replacement housing and filter yesterday and it arrived today (I am on the other coast of Florida). I attempted to screw in the housing by hand and it was very similar-would not turn at all by hand where the original would easily. Thankfully-when I turned with the filter wrench, I was easier to turn than the other one I had that would not seat. I lubed the threads thoroughly with fresh M1 5-50 as well as the o ring and ran it up without the filter in to see if I could get it to seat-and it did! I noticed that my wrench started to slip at the end (76/74mm). What I did was put a blue shop towel between the housing and the wrench to loosen it up and it finally came off. I then installed the filter in the housing and lubed it up again-with the shop towel in between the housing and wrench I was able to get it to seat and tightened up. Poured oil in and started her up-no leaks that I could see as of yet! My guess is the first replacement I had was part of a bad batch or defective in some way. Hope this helps someone-for me-no more drilling the housing. I will just clean up the mess when done.
The canister hardly budges when hot. It must cool down a bit or to room temperature.
I think when tightening at room temperature the o ring binds a lot.
i thought I tightened it all the way, I could hardly budge it and it was flush, but when I turned on the engine it was seeping.
when I tried again, loosening 1/8 turn and tightening again I found that I could get it to go further each time until at last it bottomed out. I think it has to do with rotating the o-ring to seat to its final position.
i don’t know how the dealer deals with this. Every time I check oil level I need to warm up the engine fully, but then if I need to adjust the oil filter I need to wait to let it cool substantially. It takes a lot of time just to change the oil filter.
09-14-2017, 11:03 AM
