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Hey there team, figured I would document my journey for anyone who is thinking of tackling this project. Really if you have a lift, and the right tools with a little know how-its a 2 hour job to remove the stock headers and install these. If you are doing it on floorjacks/stands-i would say it would be more like 3 hours-easily doable on a weekend though (Thankfully I have a lift). To start off, here are my plans:
Install the Cargraphic race headers (no cats) and have secondary o2 bungs welded up to try to bypass a check engine light until I can get a protune done. I will be running the stock PSE and have no plans to replace (I like the loud button)
I have had luck running o2 spacers on other cars to avoid check engine lights on other platforms-i figure for $70 its worth a shot ($44 for the kit and $25 for welding at a local shop). Worst case it doesn't work and I have to get the pro-tune sooner
The exhaust stud kit is not necessary by any means but I feel the car should have come this way from the factory-especially with the headers facing down. I have confirmed that if you would like to reuse the stock hardware-you can. They are NOT torque to yield and can be reused. For me I purchased the kit above (will need 18 studs and 40mm in length) and they were awesome. Even came with the correct allen wrench to install and a tube of loctite to install the studs into the aluminum heads! For the peace of mind of not worrying about the stock hardware falling out after the header install as well as not worrying about cross threading the heads upon install (as well as having the studs "hold" the manifold while installing), it was worth the extra $44 to me. Either way, if you go with stock or the studs, they should be re-torqued after a few heat cycles once installed.
The first step is to remove the protective cover ahead of the engine (a few 10mm bolts and torx screws). Once removed, you can disconnect and unfasten the o2 sensor plugs wires from the mounts-these are a bit tricky as you cannot see where they are fastened but take your time and feel around, you will get them out. From there, use a e12 socket and ratchet to remove the stock header bolts. The two nuts at the end are 13mm and can be tricky as well but take your time and they will come off. It would be easier to do those with the rear wheels removed but I was able to get them off with the wheels still on.
I did exhaust work on my previous turbo, & plan on tackling the GT4 a bit later this spring.
Quick ?
Why not place threaded plugs in the O2 sensor ports. Put some copper antiseize on them for easier removal later on. You might not keep the headers longterm & welding is final, which would affect resale.
I did exhaust work on my previous turbo, & plan on tackling the GT4 a bit later this spring.
Quick ?
Why not place threaded plugs in the O2 sensor ports. Put some copper antiseize on them for easier removal later on. You might not keep the headers longterm & welding is final, which would affect resale.
Thanks-not sure I follow exactly on the last part...are you saying place the bungs in the PSE instead of the header?
Made progress tonight and got the headers back from the fab shop and installed! Here are some pics from before I put them in for good.
Drivers side bung welded
Tight fit but should clear. Wanted to make sure it was out of the control arms range of motion.
Here you can see the passenger side secondary o2 bung installed with the spacer and sensor
04-23-2018 | 01:38 PM
Cargraphic race header install
