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Old May 29, 2017 | 07:51 PM
  #16  
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Hams955
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From: Plano, TX / Pagosa Springs, CO
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Originally Posted by Mech33
Hmm I'm running -3 deg front on stock arms. Is there a concern about thread engagement?
I have seen some cars who were able to get -3 on the stock arms with shims; but not all.

My car maxed out around -2.7 one side and -2.9 on the other side before losing safe thread engagement.

A good friend of mine had the same issue.

- Chris.
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 11:14 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Mech33
Hmm I'm running -3 deg front on stock arms. Is there a concern about thread engagement?
It depends on how the top plates are set on the front strut tower slots. Setting "inward" on the slots will yield more thread engagement for a given camber angle. The thread size is M14x1.5. In my opinion >20mm of engagement is ideal, which this depth is almost 150% of the thread diameter.
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 11:19 AM
  #18  
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From: Jessup, MD
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Originally Posted by Hams955
I have seen some cars who were able to get -3 on the stock arms with shims; but not all.

My car maxed out around -2.7 one side and -2.9 on the other side before losing safe thread engagement.

A good friend of mine had the same issue.

- Chris.
^ this. Every car is different depending on how the subframe is centered to the strut towers.
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 12:46 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Hams955
Tom,

We are going to modify my TPC toe links to do a rod end on the outboard side to get back some wheel clearance. I am running an 11.5" wheel that is 19" OD. The Tarett toe links employed a rod end on the outboard side and did not have interference at my wheel. The TPC version does. I will report back our results.


- Chris.
Hi Chris,

We have done a similar experiment. The knowledge we gained from the experiment was that it was a compromise between improved vehicle performance via better bump/rebound geometry versus addition grip from wider wheels/tires. By "forwarding" the center of the ball joint closer to the rear upright in order to create more clearance to the inner wheel barrel the toe curve goes farther out. But with a wide enough and sticky enough tire the grip threshold is raised via friction to mask the issue until the tire grip starts to go away. If I were to setup a car solely for the purpose of setting qualifying position time for a race with fresh tires then I'd go wider over geometry. As oppose to if I want a car to be optimized for the last quarter of a race when the tires are fading then I'd go with better geometry. #racestrategy

Would love to hear your results for your usage!

Below are random photos from our experiment including cutting an OEM link to extract the ball joint. We believe the front and rear ball joints are identical. Different height shims were used to tune the toe curve. And shallow head bolt for better clearance to wheel barrel.









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