DIY 60mm Spring Swap
#18
Rennlist Member
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![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/640x480/strutrodclearance_7360b1d5b6f5f415644d4dcb6881827e31d343ff.jpg)
8. Loosen the 13mm nuts at the top of the strut hat within the hatch area. The hats will likely be stuck on the dome mount. Set the 2 inboard 13mm nuts flush with the strut hat bolts. Place a 13mm socket and extension over the nuts and tap downward with your palm or rubber mallet until the hat becomes free. Remove the strut hat and reposition the rubber O-ring if it moves out of place.
9. Feed the spring hat, main spring, coupler, and helper spring out from the access hole where strut hat mounts.
10. Place the new 60mm springs on the strut in the same orientation as the factory configuration.
11. Install the strut hat and snug the 13mm nuts.
12. Slide the strut rod into the strut hat and install the 21mm strut nut.
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/480x640/swiftrear_a45630b4dbb8dabfdcf249cbdc900e00121d6de6.jpg)
13. Connect the endlinks (blue Loctite), torque to 37ft-lb, and install the wheels.
14. Set parking brake and lower car back down.
15. Torque the 13mm nuts to 24ft-lb and 21mm nut to 59ft-lb.
Hopefully you're still subscribed to this thread, or maybe others can weigh in.
My question is this: If you were able to ultimately remove the strut through force (or by entirely disconnecting the sway from subframe as @Mech33 suggests), why would it be necessary to remove the rear strut hat at all?
Couldn't you just loosen and remove the 21mm strut bolt and go about the rest of the job leaving the strut hat in place?
For me, the issue is that my half-cage makes accessing the 13mm strut hat bolts damn near impossible. Special tools (that I don't have) will definitely be required to get my rear hats off . . .
Any insight is greatly appreciated!
Last edited by jreifler; 01-24-2022 at 11:58 AM.