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Help with new alignment

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Old May 27, 2016 | 07:49 PM
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Default Help with new alignment

Just got an alignment done, can someone help double check to make sure it looks right.
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Old May 27, 2016 | 08:08 PM
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Caster seems a bit high for that amount of camber, so you may have rubbing. As for toe, it would have been nice to it expressed in minutes rather than millimeters, but using 27" as overall diameter for the rear tire as stated by Tire Rack, that works out to a total rear toe of 12'. The manual specifies 10' +/- 2' per wheel, which roughly corresponds to the millimeter values in the Specified Range sections. Get more toe back there or you may have a loose rear end. Did you specifically ask for less toe than spec, or did the shop just tell you not to worry that rear toe is outside the specified ranges?

Any reason you didn't go 0 toe in the front though?

Last edited by jphughan; May 27, 2016 at 08:25 PM.
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Old May 27, 2016 | 08:23 PM
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Bgb said to 1mm toe in front and 2mm rear
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Old May 27, 2016 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jasonanv
Bgb said to 1mm toe in front and 2mm rear
If you got BGB's input, why are you asking us if it looks right?
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Old May 27, 2016 | 08:40 PM
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because maybe the alignment place screwed up, and I'm not sure if the toe is negative in front and positive in rear is right, there's a gap of .4 caster. I have no idea if that right. Just wanted to make sure it good.
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Old May 27, 2016 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Jasonanv
because maybe the alignment place screwed up, and I'm not sure if the toe is negative in front and positive in rear is right, there's a gap of .4 caster. I have no idea if that right. Just wanted to make sure it good.
Negative toe is toe-out, positive toe is toe-in. Toe-out is fine for the front and helps with turn-in, although it's not typically done on a car that will see a combination of street and track miles because it will also wear your tires faster and make the car more prone to tramlining and less inclined to just track straight ahead. Typical dual-purpose street/track alignments use 0 toe in the front. But rear toe should absolutely be inward (positive). Yours isn't as positive as most people have been getting, but if BGB says it's fine, then it should be fine. The caster gap is strange, but I don't see it being an issue. If you have caster-adjustable thrust arm bushings, then it's easily fixable -- although in that case you might want to set caster to center the wheel in the well to make sure your tires don't rub even under max lock or high-load cornering, which is why I mentioned that above. That may only be an issue with aftermarket wheels though; not sure. My alignment shop set my caster to 8.8 degrees with the same camber in order to center the wheels in the well, fwiw. But if you don't have those bushings, then there isn't really anything you can do about that as far as I know since I don't think caster is independently adjustable with the stock hardware.
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Old May 27, 2016 | 10:50 PM
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That looks OK to me, except you should be more like 2mm toe on each side in the rear. You might experience some loosness under hard braking - let us know.

Your caster is good if the front tire is not rubbing on the front fender liner or fender. You want as much caster as possible without the tire rubbing hard on something.
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Old May 28, 2016 | 12:38 AM
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Please tell me you didn't get those camber values with stock suspension? If you did you have the most unique GT4 on the planet. What mods do you have to get that alignment?
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Old May 28, 2016 | 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by DrPhil Gandini
Please tell me you didn't get those camber values with stock suspension? If you did you have the most unique GT4 on the planet. What mods do you have to get that alignment?
Just shims and rear toe links
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Old May 28, 2016 | 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jasonanv
Bgb said to 1mm toe in front and 2mm rear
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