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Sway bar setting

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Old 04-23-2016, 09:12 PM
  #16  
jphughan
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Originally Posted by needmoregarage
I see your point but I'm just passing along what he told me. Since feedback indicates the bolts must be significantly over torqued with lock tite applied, or they come loose .... I would question whether they should be re-used. But I agree: to put a single use bolt in an adjustable sway bar doesn't seem to add up.
If this is true, which I'm questioning for the same reason you are, then maybe there's an opportunity for Tarett to create a sway bar kit.
Old 04-24-2016, 01:04 PM
  #17  
matttheboatman
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Originally Posted by jphughan
If this is true, which I'm questioning for the same reason you are, then maybe there's an opportunity for Tarett to create a sway bar kit.
JP, in looking at these simple bolts, it does look like they are "under engineered" for the task considering that they are being worked hard at every turn or bump. Perhaps Tarrett can design a sleeved unit that will allow adjustments without ever working its way loose. Oh, and perhaps anodize it bright red! .
Old 04-24-2016, 04:42 PM
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digistyl3
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At my first track day, the Porsche mechanics set the front to soft. It did make the car more neutral. I didn't experience any more understeer. Do you recommend that I have the bolts checked out? How can I tell if they loosen up?

Also, I could feel the car unsettling above 140mph when faced with an elevation change and a bends (turn nr. 1 in Imola, flat out). Will it help if I set the aero to max?

Old 04-25-2016, 02:34 AM
  #19  
Jasonanv
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Just got my oil changed, and had the service tech adjust my sway bar. He said the bolts have to be replaced when taken off.
Old 04-25-2016, 09:35 AM
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jphughan
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Originally Posted by Jasonanv
Just got my oil changed, and had the service tech adjust my sway bar. He said the bolts have to be replaced when taken off.
Any chance you have a part number for this so interested parties can ping Suncoast and maybe order a few sets?
Old 04-25-2016, 09:40 AM
  #21  
Bill Lehman
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Here's a shot of the GT4 Tarett drop link (red part). I ran them for 8 years (144 days) on my 987 Cayman S with no issues.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:09 AM
  #22  
4carl
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Originally Posted by Bill Lehman
Here's a shot of the GT4 Tarett drop link (red part). I ran them for 8 years (144 days) on my 987 Cayman S with no issues.
You can get buy with just one adj drop link. All your doing is removing any pre-load on the sway bar. carl
Old 04-25-2016, 11:37 AM
  #23  
ExMB
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Originally Posted by jphughan
Any chance you have a part number for this so interested parties can ping Suncoast and maybe order a few sets?
Link - rear

Link - front
Old 04-25-2016, 12:29 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 4carl
You can get buy with just one adj drop link. All your doing is removing any pre-load on the sway bar. carl
That's what I understood too, but Tarett only sells drop links in pairs, and the front and rear links are different.
Old 04-25-2016, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ExMB
Unless just replacing that hex nut would do the trick....$100+ per side per axle!?!?! I think I'm just going to add periodic tightening to my regular maintenance and pre-track day list.

(Thanks for the link though.)
Old 04-25-2016, 01:13 PM
  #26  
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I'm not crazy about the OEM nuts. I replace them with standard M10 nuts with lock washers.
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:14 PM
  #27  
matttheboatman
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Originally Posted by digistyl3
At my first track day, the Porsche mechanics set the front to soft. It did make the car more neutral. I didn't experience any more understeer. Do you recommend that I have the bolts checked out? How can I tell if they loosen up?

Also, I could feel the car unsettling above 140mph when faced with an elevation change and a bends (turn nr. 1 in Imola, flat out). Will it help if I set the aero to max?

Hello Digi,

When the fronts loosen up you will hear a slight noise and may notice a binding feeling. It will be clearly evident well before they are loose to the touch.

Regarding aero, many on RL set the aero to full from day one. Doing so means removing the small front air dams (2 screws each side), and tilting the wing up (requires removing the bolt completely and re-inserting in the upper eccentric hole). This has nearly nil effect on the street and adds slightly more down force at high speed. However, 140 will still feel like you are going 140!
Old 04-25-2016, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by matttheboatman
Hello Digi,

When the fronts loosen up you will hear a slight noise and may notice a binding feeling. It will be clearly evident well before they are loose to the touch.

Regarding aero, many on RL set the aero to full from day one. Doing so means removing the small front air dams (2 screws each side), and tilting the wing up (requires removing the bolt completely and re-inserting in the upper eccentric hole). This has nearly nil effect on the street and adds slightly more down force at high speed. However, 140 will still feel like you are going 140!
I only drive the car once a week, but I'll pay attention to any odd behavior. Thanks!

I felt that the car was missing just a little bit of downforce. If setting the aero to max does the trick, it will make the car even more amazing. I was able to keep up somewhat with GT3 and GT3 RS drivers from PDC (Porsche Driver's Challenge), usually narrowing the gap in tight corners, but falling behind on long straights. It was a thrilling experience
Old 04-25-2016, 05:03 PM
  #29  
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My setup is Rear hard/ Front mid .. the car is well balanced.

Video of my last weekend open track with stock factory setup:


in my opinion, depend on your track tarmac. if your track js clean like F1 GP circuits then you go for front mid/ rear Hard.

if your tarmac is rough like Sebring I think it is better to go for Soft Front/ Mid Rear.
Old 04-25-2016, 06:57 PM
  #30  
needmoregarage
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Spoke to my tech today as the car was up on lift. Asked for a "tour" of sway bar adjustment and bolts.

He said there is a torque sequence that must be followed, and if not properly followed they will very likely come loose if you are not replacing with new.

He didn't provide torque values but did say the sequence involves tightening to properly seat, and then loosening, and tightening again. It's critically important they are properly seated.


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