momey was spent on stitching and PCCB.
guard in my 987.2 and 997.2
like a new car
cheap and no brainer

 

Group buy, group buy, group buy!!

 

What!? I would like to confirm this. It seems really silly that they allow you to turn off all nannies, but then PTV still lurks in the background. That is very "non-GT" of Porsche.....

 

Well I'm sure they would tell you that it's because PTV is a performance-enhancing feature (compared to the stock diff and no PTV at all), not a nanny. They don't allow you to switch PASM into a mode that emulates a fixed suspension setup either, for example.

 

Sorry, but no. I don't do direct sales. I'm a wholesale manufacturer. My parts do not lend themselves to DIY installation and as such I only sell through authorized installers. That way I know that the guy putting it in, knows what he's doing and isn't going to ruin your gearbox with a bad install.

Ring gear backlash is a tolerance that Porsche publishes to 1/100ths of a millimeter. They make a special dial gauge to measure this. You do it too loose or too tight and a year later when your pinion gear breaks, the hack mechanic is just going to shrug his shoulders and say,"You tracked your car. That's racing". I try not to let those guys represent my brand.

 

Message Tecce about this. On the 996 and 987 cars the way to fool the system is to disable the yaw sensor. For the racecars they just kill it. For DE cars they put a switch in that allows you to kill the signal on track but turn it on when you go back on the street. John knows way more about how to make the electronics get out of your way that I will ever know. I'm the mechanical guy.

 

Yeah.....I killed mine in 987.1 by cutting the yaw wire, was right behind the center console.....was hoping we wouldn't have to do this on Porsche's new GT hero. Thanks for the head's up!

I smell a GT4-version of the "LSD buster" thread coming.....good for business!

 

I hate wires.

 

yes, he helped me out there.

thus i transported my car 400 miles out of the garage to have it done right!

 

In theory you could cut the lateral accelerometer out of the equation so that it kills the PSM entirely like we used to on the 987.2s BUT you have a button already on the car for doing this; it's called TC off. Turning off the ESC limits the yaw control while cutting off the TC turns off the "traction control" which is what controls the wheelspin and activates the rear ABD (automatic brake distribution.) So, run the TC off and you will get less of the ABD intrusion in the rear at corner exit. Given how much drifting i have seen in the road test videos and how much rotation i see out of the 991s and 981s on track at the limit, i don't think there is any reason whatsoever to go cutting out the PSM like we used to, just push the button.

Correct. The GT4 has the same LSD as what came on all 2011 and newer 987.2s and all Cayman Rs; it is a mechanical locking LSD from the factory with carbon lined clutch discs that will last about 10 weekends on track. Once it goes, you're toast and you're not going to get it replaced under warranty. I think Matt quoted the lockup % early but the factory Cayman GT4 LSD is a 22/27 locking mechanical diff.

Matt and I talk about this often and ponder as to why more LSDs haven't sold but I think that we can all agree that the more you guys and gals go on track with the car, the more you will burn up your stock one and the more apt you will be to buying a Guard LSD. I refuse to run anything BUT Guard transmission products in our cars for obvious reasons, not just because Matt and I like to discuss old re-runs of Miami Vice and the A-Team.

 

Once the LSD is burned out does it act the same as an open diff?

 

One of the reasons John is fun to work with!
Thanks. That made me lol

 

That's more of a Matt question; some people say yes but i have a hard time believing that it's like an open diff with 1 wheel fire. Let's say that maybe you go down to like a 8% lockup on power and coast. It's still doing something, albeit a lot less.

 

So just to confirm... 10 track weekends (obviously abuse dependant) and the diff is pretty much toast...

I am very concerned. I assuming you have pulled apart a fair number of diffs to confirm the wear/tear you mentioned. While the fix is a new/upgraded diff. What kind of cost are we talking about and what kind of life can I expect out of one which sees 12+ events a year?

Needless to say you have struck a nerve.

 

Question 2 (sorry for asking this before you answer question 1).

Is there anything we can do to limit the wear and tear on the stock diff. I.E. some kind of cooler (even though I thought I noticed one when looking under the car), running with the nannies on to eliminate wheel spin, better fluid, or etc.