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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 11:46 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Phokaioglaukos
Followed this procedure from the manual and it works. Can't understand why the BMW system requires only that the "learning" button on the opener be pressed and then the button in the car to synch. The whole get out of the car drill for this car is weird. But it does work.
Maybe Porsche places the transmitter farther forward in the car for extra range, hence the need to be out in front of the bumper rather than just at the mirror? Mine seems to work from farther away now. But the BMW process typically requires you to clone an existing remote, then press Learn, then press the button you just programmed again. For it to work without the initial clone step, your garage door opener would have to use whatever the default protocol is that HomeLink uses (e.g. Security+, Security+ 2.0, etc), and I'm not sure which that is. But the purpose of the initial clone step for rolling code remotes is so that HomeLink knows which type of remote to emulate.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 11:55 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by sonorous
This was exactly the case for me because I park my car on a 4-post lift. I did some rough calculations before I even attempted it. GT4 approach angle = 6 degrees, lift approach angle = 9 degrees, GT4 rear approach angle = 13 degrees, backing onto lift yields an effective 3.5 degree approach angle to the front end as the vehicle is tilted relative to the flat ground. Backing in is the only way I can get my car on the lift.
Do you have any diagrams of the geometry to support your conclusions?

I get harassed about being too technical around my house. Lots of eye rolling when I start talking....about just about anything. I think I am going to whip this one out and see what my ladies think of it. Think I'll throw in some "slip angle adjustment" type wording just for good measure!
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 12:02 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by user1029
Don't put the mistress garage door as 1 or 2...
Believe me,I thought about it! It's III.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 12:05 PM
  #19  
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I had no idea about the 3 second button press to turn off PCM! Thanks!
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 12:23 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Ochocoronas
This one can help or hurt you. Sitting in your LWBS put your hand at a 45 degree angle to the gear shifter. Now swing your hand fast not hard at the shifter. You are now ready to go into reverse. This is much easier than starting with your hand right next to the shifter. Now how it can hurt you ( Deerhunter knows as well as me ) if you do this at a red light you could be in trouble. I found this out as I looked at my phone light turned green and threw my phone in the seat and put it in gear REVERSE that is.
Cool!
I haven't had a problem mixing reverse with first,but it does take a little fiddling around to get it into reverse. I think it will loosen up after some use.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 01:03 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mr. F1 Fan
Do you have any diagrams of the geometry to support your conclusions?


Does this help? It is the best I can do in a few minutes with PPT CAD. The curse of being an engineer...

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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 01:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by neanicu

Tip number 2 :

If your car scraped entering your driveway or garage going forward,try backing it up. You will have more clearance that way and there's a good chance it won't scrape.
Good call! I've used this tip for a long time with lowered cars. For example, if I go into my in-laws driveway forward at a sharp angle I will exit backwards at a sharp angle to prevent scraping. If I try to come back out nose first it is more difficult to get the same angle of attack from within the narrow driveway compared to having the length of the street at your disposal upon entry. I don't know the physics behind this I just agree that backwards seems to work.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 01:18 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by sonorous
Does this help? It is the best I can do in a few minutes with PPT CAD. The curse of being an engineer...
I'm impressed.

This is exactly what's happening when I go into my garage,only the process is reversed for me. I go downhill instead of uphill. So,the weight of the vehicle,plus the very small approach angle make it scrape before leveling out. But,if I back it in,the approach angle is much bigger and the front will always be facing uphill and doesn't drop enough in the front to scrape before leveling out.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 01:19 PM
  #24  
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To the poster who asked about accessing the engine. I'm not sure about RList, but Planet 9 has an article section with a How-To to access the engine. It was relatively easy in the 987 Cayman, but not so easy in the 981. The engine cover (there are two: a metal one over the engine, and a foam and carpet one over that) is UNDER the interior trim, so the trim must be removed in order to access the covers, and then the engine. You have to remove quite a bit of trim actually (rear, center with oil/water covers, seat belts on both sides, rear side pockets.) Once you have access to the engine, what were you planning on doing? If it's to replace the throttle body, that's one thing. But you don't need to access the engine to replace the air filters any more, and the spark plugs are accessed from underneath the car. I believe Porsche decided to make it very hard to access the engine from above because they feel there are no customer service items there...
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 01:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by DrPhil Gandini
To the poster who asked about accessing the engine. I'm not sure about RList, but Planet 9 has an article section with a How-To to access the engine. It was relatively easy in the 987 Cayman, but not so easy in the 981. The engine cover (there are two: a metal one over the engine, and a foam and carpet one over that) is UNDER the interior trim, so the trim must be removed in order to access the covers, and then the engine. You have to remove quite a bit of trim actually (rear, center with oil/water covers, seat belts on both sides, rear side pockets.) Once you have access to the engine, what were you planning on doing? If it's to replace the throttle body, that's one thing. But you don't need to access the engine to replace the air filters any more, and the spark plugs are accessed from underneath the car. I believe Porsche decided to make it very hard to access the engine from above because they feel there are no customer service items there...
Thank you Doctor,that was me.
I have seen the posts on Planet 9,they are not very conclusive but they do give you a general idea. By the looks of it,the access might be a little different on this one. They were using prying tools on Planet 9,I just don't see where to pry on the GT4.
I was just curious,I like to do some maintenance myself sometimes.
I thought you do need to go in there to replace air filters,don't you? Or the bumper needs to be removed just like in the 991?
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 01:52 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by neanicu
Thank you Doctor,that was me.
I have seen the posts on Planet 9,they are not very conclusive but they do give you a general idea. By the looks of it,the access might be a little different on this one. They were using prying tools on Planet 9,I just don't see where to pry on the GT4.
I was just curious,I like to do some maintenance myself sometimes.
I thought you do need to go in there to replace air filters,don't you? Or the bumper needs to be removed just like in the 991?
http://www.planet-9.com/981-cayman-a...man-981-a.html
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 01:56 PM
  #27  
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That's awesome brother!
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 02:31 PM
  #28  
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On the PCM issue, I just read a suggested workaround which should work for anybody who doesn't use the AUX (headphone jack) input. I had initially disabled that input since I knew I'd never use it, but from what I've read (no chance to test it at the moment), it seems that if you keep it enabled and select it, PCM will return to that source when you next start the car, so you would essentially get silence while still having PCM running. In my case, I use AUX BT, but since that doesn't connect immediately when PCM starts, I end up with the radio starting, so I'm hoping that the reason for that is that that was the previous source I used before selecting AUX BT, and since that source is still available, PCM goes for that. And if so, theoretically by selecting AUX and then switching to the AUX BT input I actually want, when I return to the car later it will revert to the silent AUX input rather than the radio. Fingers crossed!
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 02:38 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jphughan
On the PCM issue, I just read a suggested workaround which should work for anybody who doesn't use the AUX (headphone jack) input. I had initially disabled that input since I knew I'd never use it, but from what I've read (no chance to test it at the moment), it seems that if you keep it enabled and select it, PCM will return to that source when you next start the car, so you would essentially get silence while still having PCM running. In my case, I use AUX BT, but since that doesn't connect immediately when PCM starts, I end up with the radio starting, so I'm hoping that the reason for that is that that was the previous source I used before selecting AUX BT, and since that source is still available, PCM goes for that. And if so, theoretically by selecting AUX and then switching to the AUX BT input I actually want, when I return to the car later it will revert to the silent AUX input rather than the radio. Fingers crossed!
I have to try this again. The first time I did it, I think it failed because I had nothing connected in the AUX 3.5mm jack in the glove box. Now I have something plugged in there, albeit the iPod is off, maybe it will detect that the AUX is "live" and stay on that.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 02:45 PM
  #30  
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What about the heater guys? How do you prevent that from coming on automatically?
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