trojan, potter just did 1:58 at TH today in GT4.
car is fast.

 

That's as fast what I ran in my RS with cheater tires. Man, I better run a low 2 min lap 1CW at Buttonwillow.

 

so pccb cars can make better use of the high downforce mode by removing the insert and adjusting the wing angle for max downforce?

 

Porsche claims that both setups should be done together. The questions was if doing the front only would help. For the 7:42 NOS time, the car had PCCBs, only the front was done and not the rear. This was explained away that the test car benefited from this due to its larger PCCB rotor size.

 

And the small steel rotor provide More downforce than pccbs as i recal.

 

Here is som hints from manthey...

There are the following options:

1.Leave it as it is, just do an alignment:
Max. 2° camber in front, 1°45 in the rear
599€ + adjusting shims.

2.Change the front to:
Part of the toe rod, trailing arm and inner lower arm mixture from 991 RS
and 997 Cup (see the picture, but difficult to see)
No Problem to get 2°50´ camber in the front, still 1°45´in the rear.
Costs 1154,42€ parts
+190,75€ fitting
+ 599€ for alignment
+ adjusting shims

3.Change the whole suspension to KW with adjustable top mounts (in addition to No.2)
No problem to get more than 3° camber all around
Costs:
Please see Position 2
+ around 7000€ for KW 3-way suspension
+ 654€ fitting
Not ready yet, we will get our prototype next week.

It makes no sense to change the rear toe rod with standard suspension. The tire will touch the wheelarch with more than 1°50 camber.
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One more note regarding our phone conversation today.

As I told you, we are limited in camber adjustment with the car in OEM specs in both, front and rear axle.
On the front, we are running out of thread on the steering rod, on the rear, the thrust arm is touching the chassis at a certain stage.

For the moment, solution no. 2 would be the most suitable one offering camber up to 3° on the front and 1°45’ on the rear.
We would choose the balance the car properly comparing front and rear axle.
Further on, corner weight and professional wheel alignment would be a good choice for the car.


For more camber we are pretty sure it’s only possible when switching to another suspension kit incl. adjustable top mounts.
Anything else is just a compromise, i.e. you can get more camber out of the rear when raising the ride height but this is not an option for us.
(Manthey racing got their own gt4, its Done i a few weeks, other final drive, etc. Etc)

 

Something doesn't sound correct here with increasing rear camber and touching.
Increasing the rear camber from 1.5° to 2° will push the top inside of the tire 3mm closer to the strut and at the same time raise the outside corner of the tire 2.5mm higher; based on the inside center point of the tire.

If it would be that close the tire could touch the wheel arch in normal driving on rough roads with the suspension movement.

 

Stay between -2 and -2.5...otherwise you'll chew up your tires on the street. You aren't racing it so the extra isn't worth it. However, it def worth it to have some camber in your tires for the track. It is night and day from driving with zero camber vs -2.

 

car & potter are fast. what was he running at BW 1CW or 13CW in his spec box?

 

Getting my links installed in 2 weeks. Any suggestions on camber and toe settings? I'm thinking middle setting on the front sway bar and full stiff on the rear. I'm not looking for big oversteer.