How difficult is it to install Caster Bushings (pucks)
03-09-2019, 11:07 AM
#1
How difficult is it to install Caster Bushings (pucks)
I want to install some Caster Bushings I purchased, but can't find any DIY instructions. I was told the stock ones are pressed in, and need to be pushed out with an hydraulic press, which is not an issue for me, but I'd like to know if I need to watch anything. Does it matter which way to push them out? Can I press them back in later?
Also, the new pucks are 2 piece and it looks like they are just held together with a small screw and no instructions what direction they go in. Maybe it is self explanatory once I have the stock ones pressed out, but I'd like to now what I am getting myself in to before I start.
Any help is appreciated.
Also, the new pucks are 2 piece and it looks like they are just held together with a small screw and no instructions what direction they go in. Maybe it is self explanatory once I have the stock ones pressed out, but I'd like to now what I am getting myself in to before I start.
Any help is appreciated.
03-09-2019, 06:54 PM
#3
03-10-2019, 10:25 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Removing the old ones is NBD, can even be done with a hacksaw and blowtorch (for those of us without easy access to presses). Installing the new ones is very easy, although adjusting caster without an alignment rack would be a crapshoot.
03-10-2019, 11:09 AM
#5
I still can't visualize how the new pucks stay in there. Each side seems to have two pieces and it looks like they have multiple holes. I just don't see what keeps them from spinning/turning, but maybe ones I see the control arm without the stock bushing in it, it becomes clear.I
I'm also installing the DSC rear offset toe links (to minimize the unfavorable toe curve in the rear under load) and while I am ad it.
Another thing I am not clear about. I read that I need the GT3 shims in the front to dial in more negative camber and I noticed in the rear there is an eccentric screw to do so, but I also keep reading references that I have to install shims in the rear as well?
03-10-2019, 11:15 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
It will probably be pretty obvious once you're holding everything and can see how it goes together. My pucks are two pieces per control arm, pretty hard to mess up.
On the shim question, you only need shims in rear if you want more maximum camber than the eccentrics allow. Front needs more camber than rear, so pretty much everyone shims the front. I think max rear without shims is -2.0 or so, which is good enough for most dual duty cars. You'll be a better judge of that with track time in the car, though. I run around that and -2.8 to -3 front and it works out.
On the shim question, you only need shims in rear if you want more maximum camber than the eccentrics allow. Front needs more camber than rear, so pretty much everyone shims the front. I think max rear without shims is -2.0 or so, which is good enough for most dual duty cars. You'll be a better judge of that with track time in the car, though. I run around that and -2.8 to -3 front and it works out.
03-10-2019, 01:43 PM
#7
It will probably be pretty obvious once you're holding everything and can see how it goes together. My pucks are two pieces per control arm, pretty hard to mess up.
On the shim question, you only need shims in rear if you want more maximum camber than the eccentrics allow. Front needs more camber than rear, so pretty much everyone shims the front. I think max rear without shims is -2.0 or so, which is good enough for most dual duty cars. You'll be a better judge of that with track time in the car, though. I run around that and -2.8 to -3 front and it works out.
On the shim question, you only need shims in rear if you want more maximum camber than the eccentrics allow. Front needs more camber than rear, so pretty much everyone shims the front. I think max rear without shims is -2.0 or so, which is good enough for most dual duty cars. You'll be a better judge of that with track time in the car, though. I run around that and -2.8 to -3 front and it works out.
OK, that makes sense on the rear camber. I probably don't need more than -2 in the rear. and will shoot for -2.5 in the front. I've only had one track day with this car, and I didn't feel like like it needed it anywhere near as bad as previous track cars, but I know it always helps.