fDG

Hi Everyone,

I plan on driving my GT4 on clear winter days in Ontario. We salt our roads pretty heavily, so I am looking for winter preventative maintenance advice!

1) Coilovers
Does anyone recommend or put anti-seize on their coilovers as added winter protection? If yes, what product do you use? I hear threads can get gummed up if you use too much, and it can actually do damage if you use the wrong type of anti-seize. It seems that the general consensus is that Porsche rust proofing is very good, and the last thing I want to do is more damage than salt would...

2) Curb Rash
I have curb rash on 1 stock rim, will it rust if I use it on salty roads?

Any other tips or advise? Thank you for your help!!

Alan C.

Your car won't qualify for a garage queen if you drive it in the winter. Dry salt won't turn your car into a rust bucket. Your wheels are aluminum. White rust, aluminum oxide, might form on the bare spots. Once again if they are dry there's not likely to be much of an issue. Keep in mind a lot of your suspension pieces are aliminum.

Ubermensch

Most high quality coilovers post passing results on salt spray tests to demonstrate corrosion resistance. You may still want some lubrication on threads to reduce turning force when adjusting the height though.

Unless you have very old steel wheels you don't need to worry about rust. Most wheels today are aluminum so the oxidation is the normal aluminum surface you're used to seeing.

Alan C.

The 'normal' aluminum surface on most wheels today have some form of coating. If they are polished they will become dull over time if they are not periodically polished.

Ubermensch

Yes, I agree they're typically coated. If he scratches through the coating he'll see aluminum oxide. I don't think we disagree, although I'll point out that even in the case of polished aluminum you're seeing oxide. So if it's getting dull and needs polishing it's not due to oxidation but dirt, oil, grease or the scratches introduced by cleaning the surface. Either way we agree doesn't need to worry about rust aka iron oxide.

FrenchToast

True, but you can't keep a car dry. Unless you maintain a zero-percent humidity level, there is going to be moisture in the air, moisture wicked up through the concrete, etc., much of which condenses on the car. Zero humidity would slow rust, but would dry out all the seals, belts, and other rubber components.

Aluminum takes longer to corrode but isn't immune. Corrosion can set in fairly quickly if areas are clogged with debris and moisture doesn't escape.

Yes, if you keep the car as dry as possible, it will surely help.

Best preventative: when the car is dry and clean of salt and debris, spray anti-rust stuff all over the underside of the car. You should also be aware of the mixes your area uses. Some are more corrosive than others. The liquid brines are some of the worst. Plenty of documentation on the internet about which are worst.

Wheels are hardly a problem. It is steel components and thinner-wall aluminum components (brackets and such) that are most susceptible. If given enough time and proper conditions, you'll get corrosion on the body shell (floor, fenderwells, etc.) and on heavier-duty aluminum components.

That said, if the wheels do show signs of corrosion, they should not be used in a track or other performance setting.

It'll probably be ten years of regular winter driving before you see major corrosion-based issues, but you'll still get plenty of surface corrosion beforehand.

In the spring when all the salt is gone, I would put the car on jackstands outside. Make sure it is safely placed on the stands. Remove the wheels, remove all four fenderliners. Clean the wheel wells, car underside, and the fenderliners. Reassemble when dry.

Application of rust-preventative oils (before the salt) and regular spring cleaning can go a long way in thwarting corrosion.