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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 12:57 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 3Series
Y...Well broken in GT4's aren't that much cheaper, maybe 10%.
Yeah, till you go to trade it in!
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 01:09 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 3Series
Would you pay MSRP ~$100k, for a low mileage car, under 400 miles? A little under 2 yrs left on the warranty.
For your usage of 90% track, absolutely not.

Are you new car shopping or used car shopping? You are buying a 3yr old car (by model year, not by warranty years), yet will take all the depreciation hit.

Considering these cars are widely available, >100 for sale at any given time, it's a wrong idea to buy a collector's car (maintenance miles only) for track duty. They are also starting to come off lease and showing up at dealer's auctions. 4 this month alone (with maybe 4 the entire previous 11 months).

Originally Posted by 3Series
The delta between a super low mileage GT4 and one with say 6,500 miles is only $5-6k. Most of the cars with that mileage I see being advertised for $95k give or take. One dealer has a almost 40k mile GT4 and they are askin $89k which is high to me. Trade in on that is probably 70k on a good day.
The base car is $80k. The options are worth $40k. To look at any car without delta to MSRP is meaningless. The $90k car is absolutely too high, but trade in could vary $20k depending on options. (But to generalize, $50k trade in seems more likely.) The nav alone is $2500 I think? Why would you pay for that in a track car?

Another thing to consider is that average DOM is 90 days and probably increasing. I've seen some >180 days. If you are seeing an ad that hasn't had a price drop yet, you are too early on that car. 6500 mile car easily is dealer retail $10k under with CPO.

Also, you are far more likely to have negotiation room on a driven car than a stored car. Since your off season is just about to start, I'd wait it out.
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 04:28 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mousecatcher
For your usage of 90% track, absolutely not.

Are you new car shopping or used car shopping? You are buying a 3yr old car (by model year, not by warranty years), yet will take all the depreciation hit.

Considering these cars are widely available, >100 for sale at any given time, it's a wrong idea to buy a collector's car (maintenance miles only) for track duty. They are also starting to come off lease and showing up at dealer's auctions. 4 this month alone (with maybe 4 the entire previous 11 months).



The base car is $80k. The options are worth $40k. To look at any car without delta to MSRP is meaningless. The $90k car is absolutely too high, but trade in could vary $20k depending on options. (But to generalize, $50k trade in seems more likely.) The nav alone is $2500 I think? Why would you pay for that in a track car?

Another thing to consider is that average DOM is 90 days and probably increasing. I've seen some >180 days. If you are seeing an ad that hasn't had a price drop yet, you are too early on that car. 6500 mile car easily is dealer retail $10k under with CPO.

Also, you are far more likely to have negotiation room on a driven car than a stored car. Since your off season is just about to start, I'd wait it out.
GT4's are 3yr old but they have maintained there value. These car's aren't at 50-60% of MSRP and probably never will be. But I understand your point. I don't have access to dealer auction numbers, the best I have are BAT auction results.
Anyway, I've already made two solid offers on car's with MSRP in the 95-100k range in the last 2 weeks. The first one sold to someone else after I made the offer, we were probably negotiating at the same time. The other I was told no at 4k under MSRP. The car is CPO and has been reduced twice. So, the hunt is still on. With ~100 cars listed on the market that shrinks fast when I narrow down my color, options and list price. Then it shrinks even more when you run a DME report. I was looking at one that had all 6 ranges covered! A winner.
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 04:41 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 3Series
GT4's are 3yr old but they have maintained there value.
If you don't drive them.
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 05:41 PM
  #20  
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A 3 year old car at 500 miles without CPO from a private party has 1 year/49,500 miles left under warranty. A 3 year old car with 15,000 miles and CPO has 3 years/85,000 miles left under warranty and costs $10,000 less than the 500 mile car. Maybe it should it be the other way around. Am I missing something here?
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 05:51 PM
  #21  
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probably $12k or even more differential.

remaining warranty doesn't reflect the remaining value of the car. the car doesn't suddenly stop working at the warranty expiration.

you can independently arrange for CPO by passing the transaction through a dealer. just add a few grand to the cost in exchange for peace of mind. now you have a car with 3 yrs/100k warranty left. if you were inclined to buy such a car, IMHO it's a garage queen candidate anyway so the warranty has no value.
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 06:21 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 3Series
Anyway, I've already made two solid offers on car's with MSRP in the 95-100k range in the last 2 weeks. The first one sold to someone else after I made the offer, we were probably negotiating at the same time. The other I was told no at 4k under MSRP. The car is CPO and has been reduced twice. So, the hunt is still on. With ~100 cars listed on the market that shrinks fast when I narrow down my color, options and list price. Then it shrinks even more when you run a DME report. I was looking at one that had all 6 ranges covered! A winner.
so if you're looking for a hard to find spec, then go for it if it ticks all your boxes! saving a few grand may not be worth your additional time and frustration.
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 06:43 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Alan C.
A 3 year old car at 500 miles without CPO from a private party has 1 year/49,500 miles left under warranty. A 3 year old car with 15,000 miles and CPO has 3 years/85,000 miles left under warranty and costs $10,000 less than the 500 mile car. Maybe it should it be the other way around. Am I missing something here?
The car i'm talking about is at a P car dealership. They've listed the car without CPO. I'm sure they can CPO the car for a price. They are trying to extract as much profit out of the car. Can't blame them. I'm sure they also use it as a negotiation tool since most buyers of these car's are quite savvy like all the fine folks on Rennlist. LOL
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 08:02 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 3Series
Would you pay MSRP ~$100k, for a low mileage car, under 400 miles? A little under 2 yrs left on the warranty.

Car is well optioned, sport buckets, PCM, full leather w/contrasting stitching.
Planned use is 90% DE (~12-15 days/year), 10% weekend.

I'd like a 718 but I don't think I'll be able to get one at MSRP and besides I don't want to wait.
I agree with others that, as of now, you probably could find a cheaper GT4 just as suitable for your purposes. However, once the 718 GT4's price and engine capability is known, the prices of 981 GT4's are going to look different, one way or another. Personally, I think if the new GT4 comes in at only a marginally improved hp, but a $20-30k boost in price, 981 GT4 prices may rebound a bit. After all, $2,500 in upgrades could easily get it to 430 hp.
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 08:34 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Jim Cobb
981 GT4 prices may rebound a bit. After all, $2,500 in upgrades could easily get it to 430 hp.
How about specifying how to get an extra 45 hp on a NA engine for only $2.5k all inclusive.

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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 10:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 3Series
Anyways, just wanted to get a pulse on the market from some enthusiasts. I'm the kind of guy looking for a good value. I'm not looking for the cheapest or buying with just my heart
YES

On manual transmissions the operator can do damage accidently. Buying a low mileage car should start you out with a virgin transmission.

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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 10:23 PM
  #27  
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Did the stock market do well today? I need to know if I broke even on all the value I lost for the 300 miles we put on it today.
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 03:41 AM
  #28  
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Lots of great feedback here.

For mostly track use, the only option "necessary" is LWBS, so as long as it ticks that box you're probably fine.

I have seen a handful of track-prepped GT4s come up, so waiting for one of those may be even better.
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 02:27 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ExMB
How about specifying how to get an extra 45 hp on a NA engine for only $2.5k all inclusive.
Headers/filters. I think for $2500 you'd have a CEL, not sure if there's a cheap/easy way out of that. Dundon headers are more like $3800 but worth every penny =)
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 04:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by guab
Headers/filters. I think for $2500 you'd have a CEL, not sure if there's a cheap/easy way out of that. Dundon headers are more like $3800 but worth every penny =)
Thats why I quoted that member who posted that figure to provide the details. Forums are here to help people, not to confuse them with data without details. And if one is quick enough one can revise an answered post before the forum shows it as a revised post to others. That member didn't know about that feature. Just did that add-on edit.
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