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Ap rotor and Tarett caliper studs

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Old May 2, 2018 | 01:44 AM
  #1  
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Default Ap rotor and Tarett caliper studs

I did the fronts tonight. Getting ready for COTA at the end of the month.

I know there is a thread here for caliper stud kits. But I wanted to share my experience installing the stud kits.
One of the members here recommended to take off all the pre-applied thread locker. I used a thin knife and brake cleaner to get it off and put my own blue thread locker (more liquid consistency so goes in better without binding)

Brake line bracket was simple but I see why the brackets are pita without the stud kits.

I'll post some pictures here

Regarding the caliper piston pucks- after 8 track days, still looked good.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 08:41 AM
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Nice...I have front/rear caliper studs and the line brackets studs.....I consider this a must for anyone tracking a GT4.
Love your rotors...I'm using OEM but looks like this will be the year I change. The AP are very popular here in RL and a lot of member highly recommend them.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 11:06 AM
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Thanks for the pics!
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Old May 2, 2018 | 11:39 AM
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Good info and pics. Thanks. I put on the caliper studs and AP rotors as soon as I got the car, and am now ready to do the first friction ring change. Here's where it starts to pay for itself--much more economical in the long run to have these two-piece rotors that allow you to maintain the rotor hats and just change the friction rings. The one-piece OEM rotors are ridiculously expensive, especially when you have to change the whole unit.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by paradocs98
Good info and pics. Thanks. I put on the caliper studs and AP rotors as soon as I got the car, and am now ready to do the first friction ring change. Here's where it starts to pay for itself--much more economical in the long run to have these two-piece rotors that allow you to maintain the rotor hats and just change the friction rings. The one-piece OEM rotors are ridiculously expensive, especially when you have to change the whole unit.

how long did the ap rings last you?
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Old May 2, 2018 | 10:47 PM
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What brake pads are those?
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Old May 2, 2018 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ML///
What brake pads are those?
Endless ME20
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Old May 3, 2018 | 01:37 AM
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The AP rotors are really durable. I was a little surprised to find they are actually heavier than the OEM rotors. I expected them to be a little lighter with the aluminum hat. Anyhow, nicely done; the rotor upgrade is certainly worth it!

- Chris.
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Old May 3, 2018 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DC640
how long did the ap rings last you?
12 trackdays and overall mileage of 10,000. Fronts need to be replaced more so than the rears, but I’ll likely do all at once. Using PFC11 pads. I replaced front pads after 10 trackdays, and rear pads probably have another couple of days in them.

Main reason for replacing the rings is that an edge lip is developing, so it’s time. Also noticed a curious wear pattern in the center of the rings’ radius. In the photo, it’s the circumferential depression in the rotor face. Spoke to Essex Racing (US distributor of these AP J-hooks for our cars). They say it is normal, and due to pad material collection in the J hooks that then presses into the rotor face. Essex says not to worry. Noticing it a lot more on the fronts vs. the rears. In any case, I’ll be glad to refresh the friction rings before this season starts.

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Old May 3, 2018 | 04:46 PM
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paradocs98, You might think of changing to a more rotor friendly brake pad. My OEM rotors have 28 track days on them and look better. Running Ferodo DS1.11.
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Old May 3, 2018 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Hams955
The AP rotors are really durable. I was a little surprised to find they are actually heavier than the OEM rotors. I expected them to be a little lighter with the aluminum hat. Anyhow, nicely done; the rotor upgrade is certainly worth it!

- Chris.
I guess AP rotors blanks have more material since it isn't cross drilled? Just indentations of the slots?
Being that they are more durable, i guess I'm fine with it being a little heavier. Just throttle more and use less brakes I guess? Lol
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Old May 3, 2018 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DC640
I guess AP rotors blanks have more material since it isn't cross drilled? Just indentations of the slots?
Being that they are more durable, i guess I'm fine with it being a little heavier. Just throttle more and use less brakes I guess? Lol
I didn't mean it in a bad way; merely an observation. We installed them on my 991.1 RS. Prior to installation we compared weights between OEM steel rotors and the AP. I honestly assumed the AP to be lighter since the rotor hats are aluminum. Turns out I was wrong; the AP rotors are about .8lbs heavier per corner. The OEM rotors certainly look one piece but turns out the hats are aluminum as well. They are just cast together to look like one piece.

The principal difference is the durability over the OEM rotors and the serviceability of the friction rings.

With that to say - I am really glad I have them on my car.



- Chris.
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Old May 3, 2018 | 10:42 PM
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Ah I see. Thanks for sharing weight difference info.
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Old May 4, 2018 | 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Lehman
paradocs98, You might think of changing to a more rotor friendly brake pad. My OEM rotors have 28 track days on them and look better. Running Ferodo DS1.11.
Same here, with a similar number of days.
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