Question RE: Caster pucks and track bits
08-23-2017, 10:29 PM
#46
Pro
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Plano, TX / Pagosa Springs, CO
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
10 Posts
Can you show us a picture zoomed out dead-on from the side?
It's hard to tell but to be honest it looks like your caster is WAY higher than 8-9. It looks a lot like 11 to me.
My suggestion:
Tarett camber plates and max out up top. The camber plates will pick up the majority of your camber from the top and you won't need as much shim from the bottom. This will bring your track width back in and allow you more room for the tire to tuck inside the fender as the wheel turns/compresses.
The caster pucks are great for a couple of reasons. 1) it takes out the movement of the rubber bushing in the LCA and does help reduce caster with high camber settings. With that to say - it does NOT allow you to fine tune caster. I would consider a set of the thrust arms from BBi or ERP.
With this setup you'd be able to dial in around -3.2 camber, 10 degrees caster and zero out toe.
As you mentioned - Swift spring package is a good idea but keep in mind you're taking down the rear suspension too. Also keep in mind that you'll need to set ride height and corner balance the car properly with the install.
I personally found the swift spring package a nice change without really sacrificing ride quality.
My personal setup:
BBi LCA's front/rear
BBi pucks front
BBi thrust arms front/rear
Swift Springs front/rear
Tarret sway bar links front/rear
TPC rear toe links
Your wheels offsets are fine. In fact with the right parts under your car you could run down to a 48mm offset front without rubbing.
To recap - get camber plates for sure. Consider the thrust arms please.
Lastly - when you get the car aligned - be present. WATCH the tech and make sure the caster numbers are what you're seeing on the screen, not what they are telling you. I'd put a fair wager on the fact your caster is higher than then 8-9.
- Chris.
It's hard to tell but to be honest it looks like your caster is WAY higher than 8-9. It looks a lot like 11 to me.
My suggestion:
Tarett camber plates and max out up top. The camber plates will pick up the majority of your camber from the top and you won't need as much shim from the bottom. This will bring your track width back in and allow you more room for the tire to tuck inside the fender as the wheel turns/compresses.
The caster pucks are great for a couple of reasons. 1) it takes out the movement of the rubber bushing in the LCA and does help reduce caster with high camber settings. With that to say - it does NOT allow you to fine tune caster. I would consider a set of the thrust arms from BBi or ERP.
With this setup you'd be able to dial in around -3.2 camber, 10 degrees caster and zero out toe.
As you mentioned - Swift spring package is a good idea but keep in mind you're taking down the rear suspension too. Also keep in mind that you'll need to set ride height and corner balance the car properly with the install.
I personally found the swift spring package a nice change without really sacrificing ride quality.
My personal setup:
BBi LCA's front/rear
BBi pucks front
BBi thrust arms front/rear
Swift Springs front/rear
Tarret sway bar links front/rear
TPC rear toe links
Your wheels offsets are fine. In fact with the right parts under your car you could run down to a 48mm offset front without rubbing.
To recap - get camber plates for sure. Consider the thrust arms please.
Lastly - when you get the car aligned - be present. WATCH the tech and make sure the caster numbers are what you're seeing on the screen, not what they are telling you. I'd put a fair wager on the fact your caster is higher than then 8-9.
- Chris.
08-24-2017, 08:41 PM
#48
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Went back to my shop this time they got it right. They removed some shimd, pushed the struts in as far as possible and used the caster pucks like they were meant to.
My settings:
front
-3.00 deg camber
9 caster
4' toe out per wheel
sway set to soft
Rear
-2.5 deg camber
10' toe in per wheel
sway set to hard
the car handles much better now, very neutral and predictable at the limit. I can push it hard and easily use the brakes and gas to create oversteer and rotate the car easily. Definitely not the same car now. Thanks for all the help!
My settings:
front
-3.00 deg camber
9 caster
4' toe out per wheel
sway set to soft
Rear
-2.5 deg camber
10' toe in per wheel
sway set to hard
the car handles much better now, very neutral and predictable at the limit. I can push it hard and easily use the brakes and gas to create oversteer and rotate the car easily. Definitely not the same car now. Thanks for all the help!
The following users liked this post:
Valeyard (09-22-2022)