edub

Not a clubsport but I think the issue is going to be similar?

On a 718 GT4 if I push on the brake caliper, and pull on the right side of the left rear knuckle, there is about 0.5mm of toe out movement and an audible clunk.

I'm curious how to diagnose what part is worn or loose. I have aftermarket toe links, so a rod end could be worn. I was going to just swap the toe links around to see if the issue follows the toe link.

If that doesn't work, does anyone have a shop manual for the acceptable deflection of the rear suspension arms?

https://youtube.com/shorts/6jgWsbWpdR8?feature=share

Thanks!

RaceDevelopementCenter

Usually the front monoballs take a beating. We frequently replace them.

Check
inner control arm monoball
Outter control arm monoball
Upper shock mount / camber plate bearing

edub

Updates for future readers

I measured the deflection with a dial gauge at the edge of the 19" wheel. There is approx .15mm of positive toe out, and .5mm of toe in when you manually torque the wheel inboard/outboard.

After moving the suspect heim joint to the opposite side of the car, the same movement is measurable there. I've ordered replacement heim joints and will swap them out.

There is also shaking present when I press the brakes, besides uneven brake pad deposits on the rotors, the wheel with the bad heim joint feels like its jumping around

edub

I replaced the outer heim joint with a part from Tarett ($30 shipped or so). This removed the free play I was measuring earlier.

zedcat

I've had the same issue with Tarett rear toe arms. I was using the rubber "boots" on the outer joints and found a lot of corrosion underneath. I got replacement FK rod ends from an amazon source and will rebuild this winter. How did you get the spacers - I think they are called misalignment spacers out of the old bearing ends? I have one that was loose but the others seem firmly pressed in.

edub

I tried to pop a rubber boot on the outside toe joint but it tore so, junked the boot.

I had a similar thing with the spacer - one came out easily and the other was stuck in there tightly. I had a socket that slide inside the ID of the bearing and that seemed to be enough to tap the spacer free. You could do something similar with a washer with the right OD and a threaded rod and nut, or another way to hammer it out.