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Actual Running Costs of GT4 Clubsport ~ HPDE

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Old 12-17-2020 | 02:01 AM
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Default Actual Running Costs of GT4 Clubsport ~ HPDE

I am looking to understand the actual running costs of a 718 Cayman GT4 Clubsport. Specifically interested for HPDE / track days. This information is not readily available, but someone on RL knows the answer -- at least what it costs them in consumables and maintenance. Per track day, per track hour, per year....thanks for your help....and yes, I know....if i have to ask the question then I probably can't afford it.....

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Old 12-17-2020 | 09:41 AM
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Running costs for Racing or HPDE weekends, as those will be quite different?
Old 12-17-2020 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Raider89
Running costs for Racing or HPDE weekends, as those will be quite different?
thanks. Edited. For HPDE / Track days not full race campaigns.
Old 12-17-2020 | 12:29 PM
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I can chime in here a bit...Nothing fancy though with spreadsheets, etc. I am coming from a 2017 Z06 (I bought new in 18' with a warranty), then had an 08' Cup car in '19 and then this year the Clubsport.

While I am LOVING my Clubsport...Here are my thoughts and experiences to date.

- SAFETY...Cannot beat it. One of the reasons I bought it.
- Much more simpler than my 08' Cup car...Since it has the "street car" drivetrain. I have done some of the work myself which I was not able to do (or was too worried to try to do) with the Cup.
- Tires are much more expensive than a street car...Over $2500 for Pirelli slicks. I know there are other options...More below on that.
- Brakes are more expensive that a street car. More below on that also.
- Fuel is much more expensive than a street car. I am told I have to use 98 and have been. About $10 / gallon. I do not want to mess around by trying something different and possible blow the engine.
- Since I feel very safe in the car, it is much more capable, etc. I am pushing fairly hard out there. I am not driving it like a street car. The result is that I am harder on the brakes, tires, etc. I am also really enjoying this in the process. So I am spending more money on making sure those components are up to par...If not the lap times, etc. will certainly suffer. Then what is the point? I guess safety only...But again I am enjoying driving the car hard (or at least harder than I would a street car).
- So with the above statement...Since I am driving the car harder I am spending more on everything. And these items are more expensive.
- A positive over the Cup...I have done my own oil changes, coil packs, plugs, etc. and have been able to buy them directly from Porsche. So nothing special there which has been good.
- The car has been fairly reliable (cracked an exhaust manifold...Also resulted in a melted bushing...Also did coil packs / plugs)...I bought it when it had 3500 miles on it...Now it has 5000.

In the end the car is incredible to drive. I feel it is worth the price of admission! BUT I am tracking with friends who have GT3RS's, GT3's, GT350's, ZL1 1LE's, etc. and they boast when something breaks they return the car to the dealer for warranty repairs. THAT would be nice!!

Hope this helps a little...Also...Here is a video link of this past Sunday @ Sebring.


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Old 12-17-2020 | 12:43 PM
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I don't have much actual data but can share my planning basis. Due to cancellations and other issues I didn't do a full season in 2020. My planning basis for consumables and basic maintenance was about $1k per day. That is largely driven by tires. Which tires will you run and how many heat cycles/days will you run before changing? I planned on the basis of 3 days (12 sessions) on a set and Hankook F200 slicks. Pirelli and Michelins are more. Also there is the option of picking up scrubs. I self support at the track and DIY some items- brakes, fluids. I can do basic things in the Cosworth system with a laptop and Pi. Onsite support and dealer/ race shop maintenance will be more. Track fuel is not included. I use 93 unleaded pump gas, but some use race gas.

Other items not included are tow vehicle/trailer maintenance, event fees, lodging etc and on track insurance. I have a policy for paddock/towing.

There is no rebuild schedule for the engine and trans like there is for cups, and I'm assuming several DE seasons before anything significant needed. The Tech manual has quite a few items that "time out" but most intervals are reasonable. Drive shafts are listed at 5000km, hubs/bearings at 10k, various suspension items at 15 to 20k.

Hope that's useful.
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Old 12-17-2020 | 01:02 PM
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Do you already have a Clubsport? First big cost difference is between models: $165K+ for Clubsport, $100+ for GT4. and $89K+ for a GTS plus options Availability is an issue except the GTS. Unless you keep it street capable and drive to and from the track a trailer and hauler is needed. Track insurance is a reoccurring cost. A proper track setup will be needed that could include additional suspension parts, dedicated track wheels and tires, brake rotors and pads. The Clubsport and GT4 have GT3 adjustable LCAs which can give all but the most aggressive track alignments. The GTS will have not give the negative camber that many want for a track alignment with dedicated wheels and tires without adding adjustable LCAs and/or camber plates.. Tires like a Bridgestone RE71 or Michelin Cup which can be driven to and from but will wear out quickly depending on the track and driving style. Frequent race quality brake fluid changes with Castrol RSF or Motul 660 or 600 or equivalent are needed. Racing track pads are like the tires depending on which pad and driving style. Most track pads are not suitable for a DD.

Some of this can be DIY but a good shop experienced with Porsche's and track alignments is needed.

Check the Racing and Drivers Education Forum under Performance and Competition for many, many examples from those with must more experience.

Find your local PCA chapter or equivalent club and attend a Cars & Coffee when COVID allows.

If this is your first experience to attend a track event technically all you need is a helmet. Replacing OEM brake pads is probably the first step. This can be an incremental process. Mechanically the 718 GTS and GT4 have the same 4.0L engines with a different software tune. You get an upgraded front suspension from the GT3 with the GT4. The GT4 Clubsport is in a completely different world as a racing prepped car including a cage. IMO Clubsport is way overkill for DEs/track days especially if you want to drive as a DD.

A used 2015-16 GTS, earlier 981 S or even a 987.2 S should be considered as a started car unless you already have a lot of track experience or want to jump straight into the deep end. This can be (is) an incremental (slippery slope) process.

Many, many others with much more experience can answer more specific questions in the Racing and DE forum

Find your local PCA or equivalent chapter and attend a Cars & Coffee or local track event COVID allowing.
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Old 12-17-2020 | 08:00 PM
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There are typically a few main items that determine running cost.

#1 Tires. Slick ain’t cheap. Hoosiers,Hankook z214s, or even Michelin Cup2s will all be much less and are fine for DEs.

#2 fuel. You absolutely do NOT need to run race gas! The Porsche spec of 98 RON is equivalent to US 93 R+M/2. Anyone that tells you otherwise is full of it; I have the Motec data to prove that no timing gets pulled running 93 vs 100 race gas. And you can get the RON numbers from Sunoco and other companies web sites. Honestly it frustrates me that this misinformation continues to persist.

#3 brakes. They last forever. That pads and rotors are huge as they are from the 991 cup. For DE, running the pads all the way until they are 3-4mm is fine.

#4 drivetrain. Change the fluids and it will last many, many years.

The Clubsport is an awesome machine. I’d highly recommend it! Factory race cars are special...I’ve got 3 and want more!
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Old 12-18-2020 | 11:38 AM
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Thanks all. Rather than starting down the slippery slope i'm hoping (against all hope) that if i start with a 718 Clubsport, then that will be good enough, and I won't go down the very slippery slope into Cup Cars. I'm probably going to do 10-15 track days per year +/-. Merely trying to get a handle if i should be budgeting $2k per day -- all-in (excluding transport, fees, etc) -- or whether my number is way off, and i need to be thinking about a different number. The big attraction of the 718 is the standard engine and transmission, that won't need a rebuild every year.
Old 12-18-2020 | 12:00 PM
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sry if i missed this - whats your DE car now?


Originally Posted by whojoemama
Thanks all. Rather than starting down the slippery slope i'm hoping (against all hope) that if i start with a 718 Clubsport, then that will be good enough, and I won't go down the very slippery slope into Cup Cars. I'm probably going to do 10-15 track days per year +/-. Merely trying to get a handle if i should be budgeting $2k per day -- all-in (excluding transport, fees, etc) -- or whether my number is way off, and i need to be thinking about a different number. The big attraction of the 718 is the standard engine and transmission, that won't need a rebuild every year.
Old 12-18-2020 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 38D
There are typically a few main items that determine running cost.

#1 Tires. Slick ain’t cheap. Hoosiers,Hankook z214s, or even Michelin Cup2s will all be much less and are fine for DEs.

#2 fuel. You absolutely do NOT need to run race gas! The Porsche spec of 98 RON is equivalent to US 93 R+M/2. Anyone that tells you otherwise is full of it; I have the Motec data to prove that no timing gets pulled running 93 vs 100 race gas. And you can get the RON numbers from Sunoco and other companies web sites. Honestly it frustrates me that this misinformation continues to persist.

#3 brakes. They last forever. That pads and rotors are huge as they are from the 991 cup. For DE, running the pads all the way until they are 3-4mm is fine.

#4 drivetrain. Change the fluids and it will last many, many years.

The Clubsport is an awesome machine. I’d highly recommend it! Factory race cars are special...I’ve got 3 and want more!
Interesting take on the fuel requirement...I would LOVE to save the money...But my race shop Zotz told me that they have seen issues (potentially major) with running street fuel. I am not doubting you...But I would love to see what Porsche says also.
Old 12-18-2020 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by zracer196
Interesting take on the fuel requirement...I would LOVE to save the money...But my race shop Zotz told me that they have seen issues (potentially major) with running street fuel. I am not doubting you...But I would love to see what Porsche says also.
I can only speak to the 718. The tech manual states fuel requirement is 98RON/88MON which in the US is sold as "93 octane" (avg of RON and MON). Do you have access to the 981 manual? I presume it covers fuel. Would be interested in what issues your race shop has seen.
Old 12-18-2020 | 03:12 PM
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2k per day is about right assuming no special events.

For example I clipped a cone at Hometead a few weeks ago and took out the right side radiator. CS outboard radiators are very brittle and any contact to the nose cone may take out a radiator. When possible get the aftermarket all aluminum radiators and this reduces the problem. A little shade tree engineering when mounting also helps .

DO IT...U WILL LUV IT...
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Old 12-18-2020 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by zedcat
I can only speak to the 718. The tech manual states fuel requirement is 98RON/88MON which in the US is sold as "93 octane" (avg of RON and MON). Do you have access to the 981 manual? I presume it covers fuel. Would be interested in what issues your race shop has seen.
I will read my manual...I will let you know what I find out. Thanks!
Old 12-18-2020 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by zracer196
Interesting take on the fuel requirement...I would LOVE to save the money...But my race shop Zotz told me that they have seen issues (potentially major) with running street fuel. I am not doubting you...But I would love to see what Porsche says also.
Originally Posted by zedcat
I can only speak to the 718. The tech manual states fuel requirement is 98RON/88MON which in the US is sold as "93 octane" (avg of RON and MON). Do you have access to the 981 manual? I presume it covers fuel. Would be interested in what issues your race shop has seen.
981 also has the 98 RON requirement. I don’t believe it lists a MON number. Ask the shop to show you a data log running on street gas that displays this problem. They won’t have one and will tell you “it’s up to you if you want to take a chance.” Don’t fall for it. The engine runs absolutely fine on 93. Maybe if it’s 105+ Outside temp, but I highly doubt it.
Old 12-18-2020 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Fumes
sry if i missed this - whats your DE car now?

Right now I'm using my GT3 but i feel like that is not sustainable, hence looking for a different ride for track days....


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