1991 c2 Cutting out/stalling after trip to body shop
#16
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OK, the only difference I notice is the rear most coil being unhooked with the wires switched seems to make the car idlke smoother. Otherwise everything is works ok switched.
#17
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When you say rear most coil do you mean rear most to the car or the engine (left or right coil in the picture I posted?) The left coil should go to the left distributor (secondary) and the right coil should plug into the right distributor (main). And the car runs okay if the secondary (left) distributor is plugged in and the main distributor (right) is not plugged in? (i.e. the car will run with either distributor plugged in, you don't need both?)
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I mean rear as in rear from my perspective looking at the engine(or rear being towards the front of the car). Or as you say, the car runs better on the main right distrubutor and coil. But, when using the coil wire from the main right coil on the secondary left distrubotor the car seems to idle more smoothly and the car runs without check engine light when the coils are hooked up to the opposite of normal coil and distrubutor.
Does that make any sense?
Does that make any sense?
#19
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This probably doesnt help but I'll share my experience with a bad coil.
Car just ran poorly, lacked power in the higher rpm range.
-Unhooked primary coil= car would not run
-unhooked secondary coil= no change.
So I replaced both coils and car ran much better overall... except idle. It idled better with only the primary coil. Why? no clue. Now it idles with a lope, didnt do that before.
Also I never had a check engine light. I do have a 90 though, so its a more primitive alert system I think.
Car just ran poorly, lacked power in the higher rpm range.
-Unhooked primary coil= car would not run
-unhooked secondary coil= no change.
So I replaced both coils and car ran much better overall... except idle. It idled better with only the primary coil. Why? no clue. Now it idles with a lope, didnt do that before.
Also I never had a check engine light. I do have a 90 though, so its a more primitive alert system I think.
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If the low voltage plugs to the coils were plugged in to each other would it cause any running issues? This would be assuming you could mix them up... Just trying to figure out if there is anything I am missing here. I think I have it narrowed down to the coil with the rotors and caps playing into the issue as well. Think I will order them up tommorrow and start seeing what happens as I change out each piece.
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By low voltage, I mean the 12 volts plugs that plug in just below each coil. Wondering if the computer sends any special commands to the coils that would differ between each coil.
What I am being to believe is wrong is that one coil is starting to go and one rotor and cap is more worn than the other(based on wear and coloring inside cap and on rotor) I think the cap and rotor issue makes the coil issue more pronounced and causes the drivabilty issues.
What I am being to believe is wrong is that one coil is starting to go and one rotor and cap is more worn than the other(based on wear and coloring inside cap and on rotor) I think the cap and rotor issue makes the coil issue more pronounced and causes the drivabilty issues.
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All fixed and back on the road! It was the primary coil. I ended up replacing the both and the caps and rotors too just for the heck of it.
Runs great and no more hall sensor codes!
Runs great and no more hall sensor codes!
#24
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hmmm- this has got me to thinkin, and I'm dangerous when that happens. I'll look into the coil issue on mine, and see what happens. First thing i have to do is figure out what the coil looks like- I'm not that mechanically inclined.