Marc Shaw

The Check Strap Kit (964-537-057-00) I bought from Type911 (www.type911.co.uk) includes extra pins, new bolts, and circlips but is also available from Pelican (www.pelicanparts.com) - it is listed here. The tools needed for installation are shown (10 mm wrench or short socket set).

If the Reinforcement Plates are being installed too, they can be ordered from Type911 also and include longer bolts. lock washers, and grease (DON"T use the grease, it is like glue and not very good. I used waterproof lithium grease). Extra tools for the reinforcement plates are a large flat-blade screwdriver, 5 mm allen key, and string/scissors.

Marc Shaw

Remove the door panel (instructions are given here: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189690). Access to the check strap is through the speaker hole but just removing the speaker is not adequate as there is in a large basket that prevents access to the inside of the door.

Marc Shaw

Remove the circlip on the pin by pulling off with pliers. Tap pin out gently with hammer and undo 10 mm bolts with wrench. DON'T drop bolts or washers inside the door panels or it'll drive you nuts with the rattle (and the door must be removed to get them out).

Marc Shaw

Remove the old check-strap through the speaker hole. The panel with the check strap removed is also shown.

Marc Shaw

My check-strap bumper was mashed so the door swung open to 90 degrees. Other problems are the annoying "click" as the check-strap wears out and can, ultimately, lead to tearing of the metal at A-pillar (where pin is on the car). This happened to my car and was fixed with a messy weld by the PO.

Marc Shaw

Insert the new check-strap through the speaker hole and bolt in place using the supplied bolts and 10 mm wrench. Insert new pin and tap in place with hammer and then clip circlip onto the pin again. Slather on lots of grease and you're done!

If the reinforcement plates are being used, just follow the excellent instructions in the kit. Basically, you put the plate in with the curved edge inside door with the curved part inward and forward (with the check-strap through the centre hole). Tie string to other piece (so you don't drop it down inside the door!) and put it outside the door but inside of the outer metal skin to sandwich metal of the door between the plates. Secure the plates and check-strap with the supplied longer bolts/washers and tighten them with the 5 mm allen key. Just be careful that the outer plate is as far towards inner part of door as possible and centred around the check-strap or it'll foul on the check-strap tongue as the door closes.

Adding the reinforcement plates does add to the complexity and time required to do it (once you see it, it makes more sense as it is hard to describe but the
instructions that come with the plates are very good). In the book "101 Projects for your Porsche 911" Wayne Dempsey highly recommends these plates and they really seem to beef up the door. If the metal inside the door breaks or tears, you'll likely need a new door as welding inside the door is almost impossible. The A-pillar is also weak but can be fixed.

I felt it was worth the extra effort to install the reinforcement plates (and extra money as those plates are not cheap) and I'm happy I did it as I know my doors are safe from damage.

Marc Shaw

View of new check strap in place showing reinforcement plates.

Marc Shaw

First one took me about 2 hours but most of the time was spent figuring how to get the door panel off. Second one took about 45 minutes, start to finish. and would have been quicker if I did not have to mess with the reinforcement plates to get them in the right place.

Hope this helps someone.

Marc