limey940

I just got Griots garage catalog and im thinking about getting the new 6" random orbital polishing tool. I have not used a tool like this in the past, but given the dark nature of my car and the fact that little swirls show up in the sunlight i thought it might be a good investment.
They also sell a range of polishes to use of different strengths, then i assume i would finish with a wax.

can anyone help me around
a) Is it a good idea to buy a buffer tool, is it easy to damage the car
b) Is the Griot tool a good one
c) what products/pads should i use in what order?

thanks a lot for any help

cheers

TOGWT

a) A buffer will make it possible to remove scratches and obtain a deep gloss finish.
The second part of this question is alittle ambiguous; if you use the correct techniques (see cited article) and with sufficient practice it should be fine

b) The Groit's buffer is a VG machine polisher

c) Polish and pads need to be matched to what you are trying to achive, although I'm a big fan of Groit's products I'm not so keen on there polishes.

What I consider to be the best PC How-To available -Machine Polishing By Dual Action Polisher, Dave KG – http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=63859

jhg41977

After going through the same thoughts you seem to be, I contacted Phil at Detailers Domain (Site Sponsor) I asked him a ton of questions, he responded quickly and with reasonable solutions. I bought (at his rec) the Griots 6" and 3" polishers and a supply of cleaners, polishes and wax. My car is midnight blue and it came out great. I had only used rotary polishers in the past and this is so much more forgiving. I have trouble with detailers domain website on my computer sometimes with IE so you may need to try a different browser. www.detailersdomain.com

Phil usually has some kind of discount for forum members, just ask if there are any specials going on.

limey940

Thank you both for your responses. I will reach out to Phil. My previous car was silver and while i love the blue that i have now, it will be more maintenance.
plus i enjoy 'working" on it so i may as well make an investment in the right tools and products.

thanks again

IXLR8

a) Yes, unless you want to make a career of it. I used to detail by hand, then bought a cheap polisher and now have a Flex 3401 VRG, a true dual-action polisher. Not cheap, but a quality tool. As for possibly damaging the car (paint), impossible to answer. Some have the feel. I never had an issue even coming close to damaging my paint.

b) Don't know. I think the Flex is top notch.

c) I was a bit confused about foam pads till I went to the Lake Country site. I did some reading and used their Pad Application Guide, stocked up on their 6.5" CCS pads from Green to Gold and ended up using the Blue pad with Meguiar's 205 to polish my 993 (after washing and claying) whose finish was good to start with.

2K7TTMIA

I've learned quite a lot from my detailer friend. The best if not "only" way to correctly get the cars paint to shine is a quality wash and clay bar to remove contamination before you actually get a fine polish then a good layer of wax. In the case of the OP, IMO, a new 991 should not need any aggressive polishing whatsoever, unless the clear coat is being affected by hard water and/or a harsh environment.

ClintonM3

I view using an orbital buffer as a 3 or 4 stage process.
Compounding
Polishing
Finishing
Sealing

Newer cars, most won't need harsh compounds. Rookie mistake is to go straight to compounds. You might not need it. Actually, start with something less abrasive, work up if necessary. If effective after a couple of passes, start working down towards finishing it.

What one brand considered as a finishing product can be as abrasive as a polishing product for another brand. Keep it simple and use the same brand for pads, and use the same brand for polishes. The buffing power or cutting power are usually listed on the bottles. Keep it consistent and take note on what works.

Since you are not a professional detailer, meaning you are only working on your car, not multiple cars with varying paint thickness, or varying paint hardness, you don't need an arsenal of polishes and glazes. Again keep it simple.

If you get Lake Country Pads, like mentioned, I would get orange, white, grey and red pads.

Many here use a Meguire's 105/#2/205 system. And many here use a Menzerna Super intensive/final polish system. The naming will drive you to drink....super duper extra fine cut nano glaze #7....yeah ok. As long as you end with the least abrasive, you'll be fine.

Griots got the naming right though, machine polish 1,2, 3 then 4. Genius.

The steps prior to paint correction, which is equally important, is proper cleaning. Get a clay bar. You don't want to buff without claying first. Buffing the paint with contaminant still embedded will do more harm than good.

limey940

Thank you very much everyone.
I actually bought the car with 2k miles on it. I don't think the previous owner was that careful washing it. Wwat prompted this question was that i noticed some very light swirl type marks, primarily on the roof. They are only visible at a certain angle in direct sunlight so after reading one of the links above i do believe that a light, non abrasive type polish will take care of this. I have e mailed Phil as well at detailers domain as well for some advice and he recommended the griot 6" and we are talking about what product/pad combo i should use.
thanks again for your responses.

cheers