No-Clear Coat
05-18-2011, 03:50 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No-Clear Coat
I did search but did not find any answers. I have a '93 964 in Guards Red, which from what I can tell did not get a clear coat from the factory.
My questions are as follows:
Best wax for this car?
Best way to remove swirls and stuff?
Better yet, what is the best way to clean and maintain this car?
Its been a long time since I dealt with a non-clear coat car and I want to ensure I do everything possible to maintain the car properly.
TIA,
CabrioArtie
My questions are as follows:
Best wax for this car?
Best way to remove swirls and stuff?
Better yet, what is the best way to clean and maintain this car?
Its been a long time since I dealt with a non-clear coat car and I want to ensure I do everything possible to maintain the car properly.
TIA,
CabrioArtie
05-19-2011, 10:49 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: London,UK / Florida US State- Dazed & Confused
Posts: 863
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Single Stage Paint
Until 1970, most cars were painted with solid colour paint as the only top coat layer in a 1-coat – 1-bake system. While initially these coatings were based on alkyd resins and were not very durable, later they came to be based on thermoplastic acrylic enamels, which had slightly better outdoor durability. At the same time, aluminium pigments were used to give a metallic effect. The durability was not sufficient, which then led to the introduction of base coat–clear coat as 2-coat– 1-bake systems.
To confirm that you have single stage paint wipe an inconspicuous area using a mild solvent cleaner you'll see the vehicles paint colour on the cloth.
The differences between a single stage paint system (base and a colour coat) and a urethane clear coat (base, colour and clear coat) finish is that the single stage paint is generally ‘softer’ and therefore easier to polish (this is due to the colour pigment used (i.e. White is very hard (Mohs - 7/10) - Black is softer (Mohs - 2/10) single-stage catalyzed urethane is harder than single-stage lacquer.
You’ll notice that the foam pad will pick up single stage paint colour i.e. on a black vehicle the foam pad will turn black, this is normal; it doesn’t mean you are removing all the paint. Using products that contain oils to provide a gloss is highly recommended
Some manufactures still use a single stage paint systems, especially on red white and black vehicles. Avoid (unless absolutely necessary) abrasive compounds and / or foam pads (use a Black (Finesse) pad for product application) use a chemical cleaner whenever possible (Zanio Fusion Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One)
Single stage is usually less dense i.e. ‘soft paint’ and therefore easier to correct than clear coat, as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale in an abrasive polish IMO single stage paint has a richer gloss than a clear coat finish
When you use an abrasive product (polish) on a vehicle with single stage paint, you will notice paint transfer on your pads as they tend to oxidize more than clear coat systems so be prepared to clean and/or replace pads often; as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale to a an abrasive polish.
Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
The Optimum range of polishes, Menzerna Intensive Polish or Meguiar's M80, with its diminishing abrasives work very well on single stage paint, removing moderate defects and nicely refining the finish, the polishing oils will restore gloss and depth. Start with Lake County (LC) Orange (light) cutting foam you may also want to try an LC Green polishing foam pad.
For full richness and depth of colour and a richer look you cannot beat a single stage finish.
Until 1970, most cars were painted with solid colour paint as the only top coat layer in a 1-coat – 1-bake system. While initially these coatings were based on alkyd resins and were not very durable, later they came to be based on thermoplastic acrylic enamels, which had slightly better outdoor durability. At the same time, aluminium pigments were used to give a metallic effect. The durability was not sufficient, which then led to the introduction of base coat–clear coat as 2-coat– 1-bake systems.
To confirm that you have single stage paint wipe an inconspicuous area using a mild solvent cleaner you'll see the vehicles paint colour on the cloth.
The differences between a single stage paint system (base and a colour coat) and a urethane clear coat (base, colour and clear coat) finish is that the single stage paint is generally ‘softer’ and therefore easier to polish (this is due to the colour pigment used (i.e. White is very hard (Mohs - 7/10) - Black is softer (Mohs - 2/10) single-stage catalyzed urethane is harder than single-stage lacquer.
You’ll notice that the foam pad will pick up single stage paint colour i.e. on a black vehicle the foam pad will turn black, this is normal; it doesn’t mean you are removing all the paint. Using products that contain oils to provide a gloss is highly recommended
Some manufactures still use a single stage paint systems, especially on red white and black vehicles. Avoid (unless absolutely necessary) abrasive compounds and / or foam pads (use a Black (Finesse) pad for product application) use a chemical cleaner whenever possible (Zanio Fusion Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One)
Single stage is usually less dense i.e. ‘soft paint’ and therefore easier to correct than clear coat, as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale in an abrasive polish IMO single stage paint has a richer gloss than a clear coat finish
When you use an abrasive product (polish) on a vehicle with single stage paint, you will notice paint transfer on your pads as they tend to oxidize more than clear coat systems so be prepared to clean and/or replace pads often; as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale to a an abrasive polish.
Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
The Optimum range of polishes, Menzerna Intensive Polish or Meguiar's M80, with its diminishing abrasives work very well on single stage paint, removing moderate defects and nicely refining the finish, the polishing oils will restore gloss and depth. Start with Lake County (LC) Orange (light) cutting foam you may also want to try an LC Green polishing foam pad.
For full richness and depth of colour and a richer look you cannot beat a single stage finish.
05-19-2011, 10:32 PM
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I've polished three single stage red Porsches over the past two years and the following products work amazingly well.
Meguiars 105 with Polishing Pad
Meguiars 205 with Finishing Pad
Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba
The paint will look like liquid when you're done. Attached is a shot of a 928 I did last fall, the car was heavily oxidized when I started.
Note that you should have the paint depth measured to make sure you have enough paint to work with. I've found the single stage red on Porsches to be fairly soft and 105 will cut through it fairly quick using a dual action polisher.
Meguiars 105 with Polishing Pad
Meguiars 205 with Finishing Pad
Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba
The paint will look like liquid when you're done. Attached is a shot of a 928 I did last fall, the car was heavily oxidized when I started.
Note that you should have the paint depth measured to make sure you have enough paint to work with. I've found the single stage red on Porsches to be fairly soft and 105 will cut through it fairly quick using a dual action polisher.
