MA7008O

Hi from the 964 forum; first time here....

I am looking into repainting my 91 C2 cabrio. I am shooting to the same color as the car currentily has, which is original factory L37W Nightblue Pearl as can be seen in the picture. It has a few scratches and a bit of rust onther the passenger side widnshield.

Have few questions:

1.- Is there any layer of coat or paint that I can add to protect the final result from minor scratches or chips form flying stones? Have some recomendations on clear bra, but how about coats coats like Teroson® Road Stone Anti-Chip Spray (see http://www.akd-tools.gr/xmsAssets/Fi...chip_spray.pdf) No bubbles, perfect fit, ....

2.- What is the correct number and type of total lawer that must be aplyed?

3.- Any treatment I should do after finishing the painting job: polish, seal, wax, ...

I know nothing about paints, and do not know what procedure or type of paint I should ask for, but i am sure that paints have evolve a lot since 1991. Painting shop is good, but I prefer to know the best procedure before I talk to them.

Thanks a lot for the help.

TOGWT

Have few questions:

1. - Is there any layer of coat or paint that I can add to protect the final result from minor scratches or chips from flying stones? Have some recommendations on clear bra, but how about coats like Teroson® Road Stone Anti-Chip Spray (see http://www.akd-tools.gr/xmsAssets/Fi...chip_spray.pdf) No bubbles, perfect fit

The newer nanotechnology coatings will provide durable protection, as will a polymer sealant or as you suggest a Paint Protection Film (PPF) or even a full body vinyl wrap

2. - What is the correct number and type of total layers that must be applied?

Typical OEM Paint Thickness

• E-Coat 33 µ (1.3 Mil) - an anticorrosion coat applied to both sides of the steel to prevent corrosion

• Primer 18 µ (0.7 mil) - Initial protection layer with texture to assist the pigment layer in bonding to the metal beneath

• Base Coat 15 µ (0.6 mil) - The basecoat is usually 0.5 to 1 mil thick

• Clear Coat 48 µ (1.9 mil) - The clear coat provides gloss plus physical protection from the elements, including ultraviolet rays

All paint has three major components: a pigment for colour and hiding powder; a binder that holds the pigment to the surface; and a carrier to maintain the pigment and binder in liquid form. Almost all automotive paint systems today are clear coat systems unless stated otherwise. 2K paint is an epoxy type paint consisting of the base plus a catalyst to start the chemical reaction that the paint needs to cure. It consists of 2 components: (a) base coat (colour) and (b) clear coat. The clear coat serves two functions (1) To provide gloss and depth (2) To provide physical protection from the elements for the base coat (including ultra violet (UV) protection

3. - Any treatment I should do after finishing the painting job: polish, seal, wax,

Current 2k (2 component paint + activator) polyurethane systems use chemical reactions to cross-link the clear-coat. Some body shops will oven cure them at approx 65.oF for 30 minutes and air dry over night or use an accelerator catalyst. Regardless, they still need to time for the solvents to evaporate (outgas) from the finish. By not allowing this process can create solvent-pop ‘like ‘fissures of the paint film and other issues.

During this period, using waxes or sealants that use a solvent as their carrier system should not be used since the solvents permeate the paint and soften it and if the wax or sealant contains abrasives, it can cause micro marring on the softened paint. The best products to use during this period are therefore water-based systems that are both solvent and abrasive-free

MA7008O

Thanks for the complete and apreciated info.

Some more questions:
Point 1: any recomendation?
Point 3: any recomendation after the process finishes?

Thanks again.

TOGWT

1. I'm sure one of the site sponsers will make a reccomendation

2. Fresh paint safe glaze’ - while a paint is cross linking, using solvent- based waxes or sealants is not ideal since the solvents penetrate the paint and soften it and will interfere with the outgas / cross linking process. The common ingredients in a’ fresh paint safe’ glaze are: water, glycerine or mineral oils(to produce a high shine) and a mild abrasive Kaolin (China clay) to burnish the surface and produce a gloss, some polymers are also formulated as ‘fresh paint safe’ for the same reasons

The application of a specific ‘fresh paint safe’ water-based or polymer type product, Zaino Polishes (exclude the use of either Z1 or ZFX™) Optimum Car Wax is water-based and is safe on fresh paint, or use Presta Fast it’s a liquefied paste wax manufactured with premium, natural and synthetic ingredients. This unique wax can be applied over 24-hour old clear coat and single-stage finishes without risk of die back, because it creates a breathable film that permits solvents to cross the wax film. Allow an ‘initial gas off’ (evaporate) /cure aerobic process of 7 days before application

These products are completely safe for any fresh paint system as they allow the solvents in a water-based paint to outgas / aerobic cure process and provide some protection for any type of paint surface. After thirty days (30) the paint surface can be protected with a regular polymer sealant and/or Carnauba wax.