yellow haze visible on white paint after Nu finish treatment
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I have a white 95 993 with paint in visibly good condition. I usually detail by claying (zaino) and pre-cleansing (zymol) once a year. I wash with p21s regularly and wax once in the spring and once in the fall prior to winter storage. I've never intentionally tried to remove the existing wax but I think the clay would do this anyway.
Yesterday I decide to do my spring detail (wash with p21s, clay, pre cleanse and correct small scratches with Maguires scratch remover, then wax with zymol ). For some reason, prior to waxing, i decide to try and remove one stubborn scratch with Nu finish scratch remover (Orange bottle). it did the job but when looking at the are closer i noticed that the area where the Nu finish was applied was actualy bright white and the surrounding untouched area appeared hazy yellow. I wouldn't have noticed this if i had not used the Nu finish. I tried small test circles in different areas on the paint and I noticed that the nu finish application areas always appeared whiter in comparison to the untouched areas. This implies that the entire car has a yellow haze that is only perceptible when compared to a Nu finish treated area. It seems that the rear fenders are more affected than other parts of the car. Perhaps the heat there contributes to the hazing.
I've since tried Isopropyl alcohol to see if it can reproduce the effect but it does not. The isopropyl alcohol does not remove the haze.
What's going on? is this normal? what can I do about this. should I Nu Finish the entire car to remove the haze. Is this safe?
suggestion much appreciated.
paul
Yesterday I decide to do my spring detail (wash with p21s, clay, pre cleanse and correct small scratches with Maguires scratch remover, then wax with zymol ). For some reason, prior to waxing, i decide to try and remove one stubborn scratch with Nu finish scratch remover (Orange bottle). it did the job but when looking at the are closer i noticed that the area where the Nu finish was applied was actualy bright white and the surrounding untouched area appeared hazy yellow. I wouldn't have noticed this if i had not used the Nu finish. I tried small test circles in different areas on the paint and I noticed that the nu finish application areas always appeared whiter in comparison to the untouched areas. This implies that the entire car has a yellow haze that is only perceptible when compared to a Nu finish treated area. It seems that the rear fenders are more affected than other parts of the car. Perhaps the heat there contributes to the hazing.
I've since tried Isopropyl alcohol to see if it can reproduce the effect but it does not. The isopropyl alcohol does not remove the haze.
What's going on? is this normal? what can I do about this. should I Nu Finish the entire car to remove the haze. Is this safe?
suggestion much appreciated.
paul
#2
Burning Brakes
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Although present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces, especially white
Stages of Corrosive Paint Damage
Stage One- Iron particulates causing surface staining leading to substrate corrosion
Stage Two - Contaminants have permeated the paint matrix causing discoloration and corrosion damage
Stage Three - Particulates and corrosive compounds causing severe damage to the paints resin (binder) system
Signs of Paint Surface Contamination-
• Dark coloured specks
• Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks
• Yellow stains
• Small metal coloured flecks
• Rough texture
• ‘Water spots’ or marks
• Surface etching
• Oxidation
• Paint ‘stains’
Paint Surface Cleaning
Vehicle manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants, like imbedded rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other environmental contaminants from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system.
Schedule: annually, dependent upon environmental conditions and vehicle exposure but more often on light coloured paint. To optimize the reflective properties and appearance of the paint surface, it is best to regularly remove both imbedded and surface contaminants and dirt.
There are three distinct type; Abrasive, Chemical (solvent) and Chemical (acid)
a) Detailer’s Automotive clay - is not a replacement for polish or a compound; it is a pliable, petroleum resin product, containing a mild abrasive(s) i.e. kaolin, silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics quartz and also silicon carbide that polishes and exfoliates bonded surface contaminants.
These abrasives are extremely small with an average particle size of 1- µ (micron) dependent on the aggressiveness required, mixed in with a powdered synthetic detergent. The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage) While clay products are useful for overspray and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot permeate and deep clean the pores of the paint.
Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner - a water-based formula with tri-particulate, diminishing abrasive system (no fillers or oils) that removes minor scratches, swirls, oxidation, wax build-up and other surface blemishes
b) Formulated with solvents and / or very fine abrasives (Kaolin or China Clay) to remove old wax, embedded dirt and light stains from paint; they help to restore gloss and remove light surface imperfection. They are designed to be used as often as required without measurably reducing paint thickness. Some paintwork cleaner’s act as 'All in One' products, so not only do they clean and polish, but also provide limited protection
P21S Paintwork Cleanse, a gloss-enhancing chemical cleanser that contains fillers (Kaolin or China clay) will remove old wax, light swirls and oxidation. It can be applied by hand or with an orbital polisher. Paint cleaners are designed to remove old wax, oxidation, embedded dirt and light stains from your paint surface. They can remove micro-marring of the surface (i.e. light towel marks) but typically will not remove imperfections that require levelling the clear coat, but can remove some oxidation and mineral deposits.
Chemical solvents paint cleaners are good to use if you want to prep the paint surface prior to applying a wax (without polishing). My preference would be to use an IPA or DuPont’s PrepSol as they don’t leave any (silicone / mineral) oils or etc behind, as these can cause problems when polishing if they are not removed
c) AQuartz Iron Cut - car paint, wheels and glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including painted aluminium and alloys). Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away. This is a one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt
Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, it contains neutralised acid salt that effectively dissolve the sintered brake dust particles by forming a water soluble complex that can be rinsed away. Do not allow solution to dry on paint surface. The smell is similar to ammonium thioglycolate (its main chemical component) formulated in permanent wave lotion
Stages of Corrosive Paint Damage
Stage One- Iron particulates causing surface staining leading to substrate corrosion
Stage Two - Contaminants have permeated the paint matrix causing discoloration and corrosion damage
Stage Three - Particulates and corrosive compounds causing severe damage to the paints resin (binder) system
Signs of Paint Surface Contamination-
• Dark coloured specks
• Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks
• Yellow stains
• Small metal coloured flecks
• Rough texture
• ‘Water spots’ or marks
• Surface etching
• Oxidation
• Paint ‘stains’
Paint Surface Cleaning
Vehicle manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants, like imbedded rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other environmental contaminants from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system.
Schedule: annually, dependent upon environmental conditions and vehicle exposure but more often on light coloured paint. To optimize the reflective properties and appearance of the paint surface, it is best to regularly remove both imbedded and surface contaminants and dirt.
There are three distinct type; Abrasive, Chemical (solvent) and Chemical (acid)
a) Detailer’s Automotive clay - is not a replacement for polish or a compound; it is a pliable, petroleum resin product, containing a mild abrasive(s) i.e. kaolin, silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics quartz and also silicon carbide that polishes and exfoliates bonded surface contaminants.
These abrasives are extremely small with an average particle size of 1- µ (micron) dependent on the aggressiveness required, mixed in with a powdered synthetic detergent. The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage) While clay products are useful for overspray and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot permeate and deep clean the pores of the paint.
Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner - a water-based formula with tri-particulate, diminishing abrasive system (no fillers or oils) that removes minor scratches, swirls, oxidation, wax build-up and other surface blemishes
b) Formulated with solvents and / or very fine abrasives (Kaolin or China Clay) to remove old wax, embedded dirt and light stains from paint; they help to restore gloss and remove light surface imperfection. They are designed to be used as often as required without measurably reducing paint thickness. Some paintwork cleaner’s act as 'All in One' products, so not only do they clean and polish, but also provide limited protection
P21S Paintwork Cleanse, a gloss-enhancing chemical cleanser that contains fillers (Kaolin or China clay) will remove old wax, light swirls and oxidation. It can be applied by hand or with an orbital polisher. Paint cleaners are designed to remove old wax, oxidation, embedded dirt and light stains from your paint surface. They can remove micro-marring of the surface (i.e. light towel marks) but typically will not remove imperfections that require levelling the clear coat, but can remove some oxidation and mineral deposits.
Chemical solvents paint cleaners are good to use if you want to prep the paint surface prior to applying a wax (without polishing). My preference would be to use an IPA or DuPont’s PrepSol as they don’t leave any (silicone / mineral) oils or etc behind, as these can cause problems when polishing if they are not removed
c) AQuartz Iron Cut - car paint, wheels and glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including painted aluminium and alloys). Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away. This is a one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt
Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, it contains neutralised acid salt that effectively dissolve the sintered brake dust particles by forming a water soluble complex that can be rinsed away. Do not allow solution to dry on paint surface. The smell is similar to ammonium thioglycolate (its main chemical component) formulated in permanent wave lotion
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#3
Three Wheelin'
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You'll need to polish the paint with an abrasive style polish, not a chemical cleaner, in order to remove that haze. An over the counter product that works well is Meguiar's ScratchX - do you have access to any other detailing equipment or supplies?
Steve
Steve
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thanks for your input.
Thanks
Paul
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Paul,
I'd get some Menzerna P106ff and a white Lake Country Pad - and if that didn't work you could always up the bar to some Menzerna SIP on a white pad and then the 106ff. All of this can be had through www.detailersdomain.com - if you need help with the polishing, shoot me a pm with your number and I'll call and walk you through it.
Steve
I'd get some Menzerna P106ff and a white Lake Country Pad - and if that didn't work you could always up the bar to some Menzerna SIP on a white pad and then the 106ff. All of this can be had through www.detailersdomain.com - if you need help with the polishing, shoot me a pm with your number and I'll call and walk you through it.
Steve