johzev

I have a 1997 black/black 993 C2 Coupe and am looking for some advice on DIY scratch removal. It's the original finish. I talking about the kind of scratches you would get from continually running your car through an automatic car wash. Light scratches but definitely noticeable

I spent some time tonight working with an orbital polisher from Griot (orange pad) and Machine Polish 1 with little or no satisfaction. I also tried some 3M Imperial Machine Glaze also without much satisfaction. My preference would be to work by hand without an orbital polisher but think I need a little more grit to remove the scratches.

Any advice for an amateur?

TOGWT

Power Finish (PO203S) - (M) this is a one-step scratch remover polish that will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0-gloss 3.5, is made for the OEM market as a quick way to polish out light flaws and amplify the paint’s gloss, addressing the most common paint condition; moderate to mild swirls, water spots, and light scratches. then it burnishes the paint to an ultra high gloss, like you’d expect from Nano Polish (for black or dark coloured paint surfaces use as part of a duel level foam pad / polish system PO 85 RD 3.01 Super Intensive Polish)

Marine Blue

A PC will really be necessary to remove the defects. I've never tried the Menzerna suggested above but I've heard good things about it.

I've personally used Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish with Griots Orange Pad and the RO set at speed setting 5. You will need to go over each panel at least twice to remove majority of the scratches. Work the product into the paint until only a light haze remains. Follow up with a Finishing Pad and a Swirl Remover. Use the same swirl remover product by hand with a hand applicator. Finish with your favorite wax.

Oh and take some pics, I love staring at shiny 993's.

Anthony Orosco

As noted you'll need the heat and friction of a polisher to get the results I believe you're seeking.

Doing this by hand won't give you those results because you just can generate enough heat and friction. Also the 3M glaze is for hiding and filling it has little to no correction properties, as you've learned first hand.

So stick with your PC (although I personally believe the PC to be a weak polisher) and get a series of pads from Lake Country ( no need to go with Griots, they charge too much for the same stuff you can get from Phil who sponsors this site), you'll want a white pad, blue, black and the orange.

Try either something from Menzerna, 3M or the new Optimum Polish for your leveling product. From Menzerna the SIP and FPII would be my choice and from 3M their Ultrafina and Extra Cut work nicely together.

I personally would start off with the PC, a white Lake Country pad and something like Menzerna SIP. Work that in an area very well, PC set at around 5, until it becomes nice and clear but just before it starts to dust up and then vanishes. Inspect the area and see how it looks. If it looks good then continue on, if it needs more then go to the orange pad using SIP.

From their, if the results are good (you may still see scratches in the paint but they should now be more uniform and those will be removed with following polish steps) then go back to the white pad with your finishing polish (FPII or Ultrafina). If the results are good then try the blue, black pads with your finishing polish. If you feel there are some scratches that need more work then go back to the white pad and SIP and after that work your way down to the finest pad again.

It's a labor of love and your first time is the most time consuming.

If you feel this is too much work then seek out a professional in your area who comes highly recommended.

Hope that helps,
Anthony

detailjohn

Go get your car detailed. Then you can maintain it later when the paint's finish has been corrected.



John