List your Top 20+ MUST HAVE detail products
#31
AIO should be removing your oxidized paint. Your rag is coming up with pigmented paint correct?
I have used it to remove oxidation from a Guards Red Porsche in the past and it worked fine, and this was by hand.
What color is the paint?
There could be underlying issues with the paint which may mean you will need to perhaps have some paint correction, meaning high speed rotary work done by a professional detailer. Describe as best you can what's going on, is it a re-paint?, Do you pull color off onto the rag? POssible to post up pictures in the sun?
Anthony
I have used it to remove oxidation from a Guards Red Porsche in the past and it worked fine, and this was by hand.
What color is the paint?
There could be underlying issues with the paint which may mean you will need to perhaps have some paint correction, meaning high speed rotary work done by a professional detailer. Describe as best you can what's going on, is it a re-paint?, Do you pull color off onto the rag? POssible to post up pictures in the sun?
Anthony
#32
Rennlist Member
Ronmart and interested parties: Check this out. This pneumatic orbital's polishing pads fits perfectly into P21s container, allowing me to dip and spin on the tighter areas of my car's body. It is really effective and easy to handle, not to mention very quiet. Don't even think about using liquid as it will throw it 20 feet in every direction. Nice piece of equipment for mirrors sharp curves and tight areas. By www.griotsgarage.com
#33
Rest In Peace Jaak
Cable Guy
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Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
AIO should be removing your oxidized paint. Your rag is coming up with pigmented paint correct?
I have used it to remove oxidation from a Guards Red Porsche in the past and it worked fine, and this was by hand.
What color is the paint?
There could be underlying issues with the paint which may mean you will need to perhaps have some paint correction, meaning high speed rotary work done by a professional detailer. Describe as best you can what's going on, is it a re-paint?, Do you pull color off onto the rag? POssible to post up pictures in the sun?
Anthony
I have used it to remove oxidation from a Guards Red Porsche in the past and it worked fine, and this was by hand.
What color is the paint?
There could be underlying issues with the paint which may mean you will need to perhaps have some paint correction, meaning high speed rotary work done by a professional detailer. Describe as best you can what's going on, is it a re-paint?, Do you pull color off onto the rag? POssible to post up pictures in the sun?
Anthony
When the paint gets wet with a few large drops of water these areas become "bright" again. Almost like the paint is dry and needs liquid to come alive. I may have too many layers of wax on her .... don't know. This problem is just on the hood and front nose piece. The rest of the car is great.
#34
OK, thanks.
I would continue working with the AIO for now with the PC. Kick it up to 5 and use the orange pad for the entire hood one time but remember to rinse the pad out often as product and oxidation build up on the pad will diminish its results.
Then use another pad, a polishing pad, with AIO again and see how it comes out. Remembering to again rinse the pad often. Do areas no more than 2x2 and don't allow the product to get to dry. Another great product you may want to try, one with more bite than AIO, is either Menzerna Intensive Polish or Optimum's Polish. Both are great products, the IP cuts faster than Opt's Polish BUT it also dusts up pretty bad. Optimum will cut the paint as well as IP but it takes more time but with virtually no dust.
Take a look at this Guards Red hood. One half has been polished out with OPtimum Polish while the other half has been left untouched.
Here is the fender before being polished.....
And here it is after being polished......
Now this work was performed with a rotary polisher so it went fast but with time and patience yours can come out looking just as nice
I also had to rinse my pads out often, this is key.
Let me know if I can be of more help....also, what do you plan on using as a finishing wax? I prefer paste carnauba's on single stage paints and if you want to use one I suggest Trade Secret.
Anthony
I would continue working with the AIO for now with the PC. Kick it up to 5 and use the orange pad for the entire hood one time but remember to rinse the pad out often as product and oxidation build up on the pad will diminish its results.
Then use another pad, a polishing pad, with AIO again and see how it comes out. Remembering to again rinse the pad often. Do areas no more than 2x2 and don't allow the product to get to dry. Another great product you may want to try, one with more bite than AIO, is either Menzerna Intensive Polish or Optimum's Polish. Both are great products, the IP cuts faster than Opt's Polish BUT it also dusts up pretty bad. Optimum will cut the paint as well as IP but it takes more time but with virtually no dust.
Take a look at this Guards Red hood. One half has been polished out with OPtimum Polish while the other half has been left untouched.
Here is the fender before being polished.....
And here it is after being polished......
Now this work was performed with a rotary polisher so it went fast but with time and patience yours can come out looking just as nice
I also had to rinse my pads out often, this is key.
Let me know if I can be of more help....also, what do you plan on using as a finishing wax? I prefer paste carnauba's on single stage paints and if you want to use one I suggest Trade Secret.
Anthony
#35
Rest In Peace Jaak
Cable Guy
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Anthony ... thanks. I just got a product called 3000 from by bodyshop (my LR was whacked, in for repair, no sheetmetal damage) and he states that my paint need polishing and this colour does oxidize more than others. He says its close to #3000 grit and has no polishers/wax. I will give it a try as well as the follow-up with AIO. I have P21S that is usually my final coat.
Didn't realize that the pads should be rinsed out!!! Guess it's OK to use when wet. This point is not stated anywhere in research I have done and maybe it needs to be reinforced more. I have a tendancy to follow instructions being a Techie as well as a former Technical Trainer and Defensive Driving Instructor.
As stated in the past ... ASSumptions will make an *** out of you and me
Didn't realize that the pads should be rinsed out!!! Guess it's OK to use when wet. This point is not stated anywhere in research I have done and maybe it needs to be reinforced more. I have a tendancy to follow instructions being a Techie as well as a former Technical Trainer and Defensive Driving Instructor.
As stated in the past ... ASSumptions will make an *** out of you and me
#36
Hey, glad to be of help.
After rinsing the pad use a towel to soak up as much water as possible and then place it on your PC, crank it up to 6 and let it go for a bit of a "spin dry"
OK....back to work for me!
Anthony
After rinsing the pad use a towel to soak up as much water as possible and then place it on your PC, crank it up to 6 and let it go for a bit of a "spin dry"
OK....back to work for me!
Anthony
#37
Rest In Peace Jaak
Cable Guy
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Anthony ... I used the 3000 product I got from my body shop. I went over the hood and nose piece twice. Man did it take the oxidation off. I had to wash the orange pad 4 times. The wash pail turned red!!
I then went over the same area twice with the AIO and the white pad. I had to clean it 4 times as well. It did clean off a lot of oxidation and the paint now looks clean. I let it dry for about a half hour and added one coat of the Klasse sealer. The light started to fade, but the pait looks good; lot better than the rest of the car now. I'll look at it again tomorrow in the sunlight and if it's good, will finish it off with the P21S on Saturday. So far so good.
Guess the instructions out there don't include the "pad washing" process. Maybe a blurb regarding this should be documented. It wil make any detail job easier. Just make sure when you "spin dry" the pad, your face is not in the way .....
Thanks again!!!
I then went over the same area twice with the AIO and the white pad. I had to clean it 4 times as well. It did clean off a lot of oxidation and the paint now looks clean. I let it dry for about a half hour and added one coat of the Klasse sealer. The light started to fade, but the pait looks good; lot better than the rest of the car now. I'll look at it again tomorrow in the sunlight and if it's good, will finish it off with the P21S on Saturday. So far so good.
Guess the instructions out there don't include the "pad washing" process. Maybe a blurb regarding this should be documented. It wil make any detail job easier. Just make sure when you "spin dry" the pad, your face is not in the way .....
Thanks again!!!
#39
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by The Silver Surfer
does griots quick detailer work with klase and sonus ?
#40
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Originally Posted by ronmart
Yes, it is very mild. You can use Griots Speed Shine or Poorboys Spray & Wipe without any problems (both are about the same in my opinion).
#41
Rennlist Member
Oh, I almost forgot. I just received my new pneumatic orbital and plan to use it today and compare it to the PC. I'll let you know my thoughts. My initial comments on build quality are very good. I like the way it feels and it appears to be a solid piece. We'll see once I hook it up to my friend the compressor. Image attached...
#42
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SilverSteel
You know, I've found the Griots Speed Shine works well with clay but isn't as good a wax booster as other products out there. In fact, 3m has a real good one that is second only to Zaino's. But Zaino's is so darn expensive for what you get. Why don't they sell the stuff in bulk? Never mind, I know the answer. Also, Meguiar's Final Inspection spray is not bad either.
I'm not impressed with their Spray On Wax. It works okay and doesn't leave a residue, but it isn't as good as QW as Meguiars Quik Wax (which leaves white chalk behind if you get it in the cracks). Duragloss AquaWax is the best product I've used thus far and it is actually a cheap OTC available at places like Carquest. It's all the rage on DetailCity and Autopia, so I tried it out and it does work well.
#43
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SilverSteel
Oh, I almost forgot. I just received my new pneumatic orbital and plan to use it today and compare it to the PC. I'll let you know my thoughts. My initial comments on build quality are very good. I like the way it feels and it appears to be a solid piece. We'll see once I hook it up to my friend the compressor. Image attached...
#44
Rennlist Member
Ron, you're right about the Griots booster. They gave me some as a sample on my last order and I wasn't impressed at all. I'm surprised they're selling it given his standards. You know they won't be selling much of that. I haven't heard of the Duragloss. I better use what I have in inventory before buying anything else.
I'm all out of fittings for my pneumatic so I'll have to go to Homedepot to get one. I promise, promise, promise no more toys for a while.
I'm all out of fittings for my pneumatic so I'll have to go to Homedepot to get one. I promise, promise, promise no more toys for a while.