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clear coat turning hazy and peeling

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Old 04-02-2006, 11:12 PM
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yogi
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Default clear coat turning hazy and peeling

I'm looking for suggestions on possible options. I have a 1987 911 which is marine metallic blue with clear coat. It's suppose to be the oringinal paint and is in fair condition. I'm not looking to paint the car at this time. The clear coat on the drivers door and no where else is turning hazy and starting to peel. It's not the paint turning hazy just the clear coat. I was thinking of having this area wet sanded and then clear coated. Does this make sense and will it hold up?
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Old 04-03-2006, 03:49 AM
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Anthony Orosco
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Hello,

Are you the original owner? If not then is it possible it has been re-painted?

If you're unsure open the driver door and feel inside the door frame and edges and then compare that with the passenger side. If it's a repaint you'll feel a rough unfinshed edge while a factory OEM paint job is smooth and finished.

Also look for some paint on the edges of the trim guards along the window. Most body shops do not remove that piece when paint they just mask it off.

Let me know,
Anthony
Old 04-03-2006, 10:57 AM
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yogi
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No I am not the original owner. It is possible that area is a repaint. If it is it was done a very long time ago. I found no paint on the trim and everything seemed smooth. How would I treat it different as OEM compared to a repaint? thanks,

Jerry Baer
Old 04-03-2006, 09:40 PM
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raycm
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I have a Saab with this problem. It has been repainted.
With finger nail or wood stick you can peel away the loose clear coat.
I found the under neath color is no longer OK and needs new base color.
I tried a spray can of clear coat, and spray, sand, polish.
But the old clear coat keeps lifting. And its more difficult to remove where I've patched.
So now I'm waiting till it stops spreading. What I'm saying is it makes sense to
redo the entire panel. :-) There is a paint web site that has the same message.

Ray
Old 04-03-2006, 11:28 PM
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yogi
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If I have it done I would use a paint and body shop. I just want to know if the clear coat will stick after wet sanding? Or are they any other ways to go about having it done? thanks,

Jerry Baer
Old 04-03-2006, 11:58 PM
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Anthony Orosco
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The body shop should wetsand the entire door..ask them to remove it if possible.....also ask them if they can remove the window edging and door handle so as to get full coverage of the clear.

I also believe the door to be a repaint as I have not seen many Porsches have clear coat failure.

Anthony
Old 04-11-2006, 02:01 PM
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jalexand
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Clearcoat failure of the nature you have described is almost certainly the result of a repaint. Basically there are two forms of creating a bond between two layers of paint, one form is chemical and the other mechanical. Factory clearcoat relies upon the chemical bond which is developed by spraying the clear onto the basecoat almost immediately following the applicaton of the base and before it has had time to dry. A chemical reaction between the base and clear "bonds" the two together chemically in a way that almost makes separate failure of the clear impossible. This same bond can be created in the body shop as well, but requires a repaint of an entire panel, not just a spot repair. In the case of a spot repair you actually usually get two forms of bond, chemical in the area where the base was applied and mechanical on the adjacent areas that have been sanded. Sanding presents an area where the surface is given a rough finish where the finish can get "tooth" or grip on the underlying finish. The mechanical bond is not nearly as strong as a chemical bond and this is the area where you will usually see failure and the finish begin to peel after a period of time.

This whole scenario has been made worse by the newer "environmentally friendly" paints that lack the chemical compositions that at one time were used to help avoid the failures we now see in many applications.



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