Anthony Orosco

It's too bad that there was no sun out after I had detailed this Vette as I would of loved to have gotten some full sun shots. The paint came out very nice and I only used one product to clean and polish, applied with a foam finishing pad and a rotary, and then I sealed it with an experimental sealant from a company asking me to test it out for them.

It took "Best Of Show" the following weekend at a Vette show.





No need for 12 different cleaners, polishes, glazes and then 5 coats of wax. Just properly polish the paint then seal your work

Anthony

mac993

"I only used one product to clean and polish, applied with a foam finishing pad and a rotary,"

Anthony- Which product did you use?

Also, how do you remove the "swirl mark/3-D halo" effect? I worked all day today on my car using meguiars fine cut, #7 and #23 yellow wax in that order. Now I can't seem to get what look like smear marks, or I guess the 3-d effect you talking about, out. No matter how hard I try. VERY FRUSTRATING !!!! BTW I have a rotary buffer.
Thanks in advance.

mac993

oh yeah the corvette looks killer BTW.

Monique

I completely agree... too many "snake oils" out there. Zymol? ("Hair growth tonic" IMO)

It is not the product. It is the process...

this may be why Anthony did not mention a product: they all get the same result +-.

Process:
1. Thorough wash with a good car shampoo.
2. Clay bar with lots of lube.
3. Polish slowly and with low pressure. Take your sweet time.
4. Seal with a wax... I prefer a carnauba product.

Anthony Orosco

Hey thatnks for the kind words

The Menzerna line is a great line of products but the key to removing swirls is 2 fold.

1) The right product. One that does not break down into dust a few moments after using it and also one that is not too abrasive. You need abrasives to level the paint but it should be nothing more than having the ability to level 1500 grit sanding marks.

2) The right pads. A rotary polisher is key in removing swirls and just as important as the right polish is using the right pads. Having the right polish but using it with an incorrect pad, or using too high or low of an RPM on the polisher, can make things even worse.

So basicaly it all has to balance, product, pad and speed. My choice for product is Optimum Car Polish in conjunction with either Optimum pads or Lake Country pads.

The Optimum car polish has an almost infinite working time, does not dust up and removes paint imperfections. The #7 you mentioned only hides them, it does no paint correction. What happens many times using glazes such as #7 is that the paint becomes very oily on top and then when you wax the paint it doesn't bond well. You are then left with a smeary, oily top surface that only looks like it is swirled or scratched but actually it's just oily.

I would remove everything you have on the car by claying it (of course wash it first) and then get some Optimum Polish and a few pads, again I prefer the Optimum pads as they are a few points finer than the Lake Country pads.

I would recommend the Optimum black wool finishing pad and their blue and white ultra fine foam finishing pads. Now don't be scared by the word "wool pad" as so many are when buffing. Most people don't realize that wool runs cooler than foam pads so they are essentially safer.

Hit the car first with blue foam finishing pad and the Opt polish. Run the buffer at about 1200 rpm's and make slow, low pressured passes. The Opt ppolish creates a buffing barrier between the pad and paint so there is less chance of paint burn. After you buff about a 2x2 area for several minutes stop buffing and place your hand on the area. It should be luke warm to the touch, meaning you should be able to keep your hand there and it only be toasty warm, not hot. If you can't keep your hand there at all then you are going too slow and/or using too high of an RPM. Remedy this by lowering the RPM and moving a bit faster.

Try and keep the pad flat BUT I prefer to buff with a slight lift to my pad. This is where practice and personal preferrence comes in. You should only need about a nickel size drop of the Opt polish to do a 2x2 area, also order the 7 1/2 inch pads.

Now if the car looks better move on to the white ultra fine finishing pad and do the same thing, perhaps dropping to 1000 rpm's. If the paint does not look any better then use the black wool pad, Opt. polish and the speed at about 1200 to 1400 rpm's. There should never be a need to go over 1500 rpm's with your Porsche paint.

I wish I could be there to guide you along as I know this type of format can be lacking but I'll do my best to help you out as much as possible.

Anthony

mac993

WOW. Anthony you are the man!!!! Thanks for you help. I too wish you were local. Thnaks again.

pete77930

on my 930 I won best in class 2 years in arow at the Taj show in Dayton, both times with zaino. nothing else gets applied to my paint. you can drop a fleece polishing/buffing cloth onto any flat surface of my car and it will just start sliding off. I use 1 coat of Z1 polish lock,followed by 2 coats of Z5 swirl remover/filler and 4 coats of Z2 using Z6 gloss enhancer in between each coat. I'd post a few pics but I don't have a digi. those of you who've seen my paint in person can vouch for the finish though. Best stuff I've used but I haven't really tried or looked for any new products to replace it. I do know that on some older porsches it can cause a cloudiness/foggy look to the original paint. As far as interior, I clean all my leather with shout stain remover, spray it onto the leather and rub it in with a damp wash cloth, wipe it off with a wet wash cloth and dry it with a clean towel, this is the only thing I've tried done that actually makes leather feel soft, supple, and new again. and I discovered it completely by accident. just my .02

pete77930

Anothony I think you need to head to the publishers with all of your knowledge on detailing and paint, great write up, I learn somthing new everyday.

Anthony Orosco

Pete,

Thank you very much

Just to give you all here a heads up.... I have written a script for a detailing DVD and had hoped to have already had it done but just about then my father passed away so I put it on the back burner for a bit.

We had then thought about producing several downloadable videos but that turned out to be a bad idea because one person could buy it then give it away for free. So we then thougt about articles with pictures but we gave that up also so now we are back to the DVD.

I am talking with several guys right now who do video production work and who ever gives me the better price and can make it look very professional gets the job. It should only take a week or so of filming, several days of editing, copying, case production and then we should have an hour long DVD for sale on how to properly detail your car.

So my end is ready I just now need a production company.

Anthony

MrZir

Anthony,

What is the status on your DVD? Do you know an expected price?

Thanks

jb26jb

mrsullivan, not that it matters but P21S won the guru reports contest not zaino. Though comparing a wax (P21S) to a synthetic sealant (zaino) isn't really fair each have their own attributes.

jb26jb

I am a big fan of the optimum car products that Anthony turned me on to. But in all fairness have had results just as good using other companies. The optimum products are extremely user friendly though.

Anthony Orosco

I have actually started filming some on my own to see how the quality comes out and to test my editing abilities. A few of the professional companies I spoke with wanted around $10k for a 30 minute video There's no way I could afford that without selling off the house and kids seeing as how I would like it to be at least an hour and 30 minutes long Another guy said he would do it for $1500 but I saw his work and wasn't impressed.

So I am going to try it on my own. If it looks OK then I may invest in a really nice digital camcorder (Canon makes a production quality one for $3000) and do it myself. I figure if I can learn to build my own webpage, FLASH and Photoshop graphics then I should be able to also do OK with filming ... ..... I hope

Doing it this way will also keep the cost down for the DVD itself, which I figure will be in the $30 range for around 90 minutes of car care information. I will be sure to keep everyone updated as things progress.

Take care,
Anthony

Anthony Orosco

Very true.....many products will give or produce the same results BUT how much trouble one goes through to get those results is important, at least it is for me..

Seeing as how you like the Optimum line then you're going to really like some new additions coming soon. There is a new window cleaner that will also remove hard water spots on glass and also paint! Also I have my very own paint sealant coming out soon and I am pretty excited about this. I have been working with David (the creator of Optimum) on a unique paint sealant which is very simple to apply and in my tests is very impressive in the area of durability. I just can't figure out a name to call it

Take care,
Anthony

perfectlap

THis is my list

First i NEVER touch the paint unless its wet. That means even before applying wax I use a quick detailer synth or Carnauaba sprayed onto the paint. When Claying obviously spray qd and before washing lots of suds and water before the wash sponge goes on. I only use a wash sponge once and then garbage.

1. Clay (right now I'm using sonus)
2. Klasse twins All in One and SG (lSonus Acrylic spritz when layering Klasse SG)
3. S100 with a dedicated buffing towel (no buffing with a polishing towel).
go back in the house and eat a sandwich!

oh wait I forgot about the inside

wipe down the inside with a spray mixture of woolite or Eiman Fabrik and water.
1z cockpit premium with waffle weave towel or Sonus der Wunder towel.
Klasse VLRP on anything black Plastic (this is my favorite detailing product)
1Z Rubber and Vinyl care on dash and tires.
Carpets I use the Einmann Fabrik or woolite with Meg's carpet brush.
On the Leather seats I alternate between 1Z leather cleaner or Leatherique.

Wheels P21S gel wheel cleaner (amazing cleaning action) making sure to get in the barrel of the wheel where CF and brake dust hides.
Klasse All in One on the Wheels and NXT over that. Lately I've been using the Michelin Brake Dust Repellent.

Plexus on my headlights and tailights and plastic window for my BoxsterS.

Then the next day I go to the autocross and get the stupid thing FILTHY


but its not the nightmare to keep clean my old Black car was