955/957 Cayenne DIY: Front Rotors and Pads
#107
Can upper bolt be torqued without removing line?
Great picture, but I've got a question: Can that upper bolt be torqued without removing the brake line from the caliper? I looks like a socket will not go on the bolt without removing the line. Getting ready to do my Cayenne brake job. Thanks. Lance
#108
Drifting
Yes, there is enough room to remove the upper bolt without removing the brake line.
#109
Success!
OK, was very apprehensive about doing a brake job on my 2008 Cayenne, but this discussion pulled me through.
I've got about 33,000 city miles, and the light came on about 2 weeks ago. The front rotors had visible wear, but the rears still looked pretty good.
I bought everything, read up as much as possible here and in the service manual and got an early start today.
From start to finish, 6 1/2 hours working on the ground in my garage with one floor jack and two jack stands.
Installed new drilled/slotted rotors all around.
Only problem was trying to torque the rear rotor bolts. My 1/2"-drive torque wrench was too long to get into position while working on the ground. So had to be satisfied with getting them to 85 ft-lbs with a shorter, 3/8" drive torque wrench, and then pulling on them hard with a breaker-bar. I can live with that.
Thanks for the help everybody.
Lance LaCour
I've got about 33,000 city miles, and the light came on about 2 weeks ago. The front rotors had visible wear, but the rears still looked pretty good.
I bought everything, read up as much as possible here and in the service manual and got an early start today.
From start to finish, 6 1/2 hours working on the ground in my garage with one floor jack and two jack stands.
Installed new drilled/slotted rotors all around.
Only problem was trying to torque the rear rotor bolts. My 1/2"-drive torque wrench was too long to get into position while working on the ground. So had to be satisfied with getting them to 85 ft-lbs with a shorter, 3/8" drive torque wrench, and then pulling on them hard with a breaker-bar. I can live with that.
Thanks for the help everybody.
Lance LaCour
#110
Rennlist Member
Did a front pads and rotors today on my '06 CTT. The retaining pins were really stuck in there, so I had use a drift and sledgehammer to get them out :0 Otherwise uneventful with a small exception to the instructions here. I have air suspension, and I found it easier to remove the hard line from the caliper and plug the line and caliper instead of trying unbolt the line brackets from the wheel carrier and hang the caliper (in fact I am not sure that is even possible). It was easy to enough to reconnect and bleed the front calipers with my pressure bleeder, and I was planning on refreshing the fluid anyway.
Used the Hawk HPS and Centric Plain 120 rotors from Tire Rack. I got pads for the rear as well but they are not ready for replacement yet. Stopping effort seems the same as stock and for $83 each I am quite happy with the rotors.
Used the Hawk HPS and Centric Plain 120 rotors from Tire Rack. I got pads for the rear as well but they are not ready for replacement yet. Stopping effort seems the same as stock and for $83 each I am quite happy with the rotors.
#114
Rennlist Member
Those of you who have successfully DIYed the rear rotors... how did you get the caliper bolts off? I've got the correct triple-square, but apparently not enough force x lever arm.
Considered handing the parts to a local brake shop and letting them do it in 15 minutes, but that kind of felt like quitting...
Considered handing the parts to a local brake shop and letting them do it in 15 minutes, but that kind of felt like quitting...
#115
Those of you who have successfully DIYed the rear rotors... how did you get the caliper bolts off? I've got the correct triple-square, but apparently not enough force x lever arm.
Considered handing the parts to a local brake shop and letting them do it in 15 minutes, but that kind of felt like quitting...
Considered handing the parts to a local brake shop and letting them do it in 15 minutes, but that kind of felt like quitting...
#116
Rennlist Member
#119
Drifting
Thread Starter
Those of you who have successfully DIYed the rear rotors... how did you get the caliper bolts off? I've got the correct triple-square, but apparently not enough force x lever arm.
Considered handing the parts to a local brake shop and letting them do it in 15 minutes, but that kind of felt like quitting...
Considered handing the parts to a local brake shop and letting them do it in 15 minutes, but that kind of felt like quitting...
The rears are a different story. Definitely soak them with DW-40 (overnight if you can). It can be done with a breaker bar and hefty 1/2" socket (put a towel around the bar so you don't scratch paint of course). Before the WD-40 I snapped a socket in half and they didn't budge.
An impact wrench is a sexy alternative, that I unfortunately didn't have.
#120
Intermediate
Ok gents, we've got 2x957TTs that need pads.
Rotors: Small lips on rear rotor of one, and lip on front rotors of the other.
Looking for ideas on rotors, pads and sensors.
e-Bay has several sets for sale, to include a complete kit w/sensors for $415
We don't race the trucks so what is the most economical solution for 350mm versions?
Rotors: Small lips on rear rotor of one, and lip on front rotors of the other.
Looking for ideas on rotors, pads and sensors.
e-Bay has several sets for sale, to include a complete kit w/sensors for $415
We don't race the trucks so what is the most economical solution for 350mm versions?