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Did you need to hassle with any wire harnesses? or was it straight forward..
The S-trim main wiring issues are twofold:
1. Pulling off the plastic cable duct from its ball-shaped retention stud. Without this step, the coils cannot be accessed. The retention stud interfaces with a rubber grommet, and it takes quite some force to remove the first time. When reassembling, wipe the thinnest film of dielectric grease on the rubber grommet, so removal next time is easy. This applies to both left and right sides of the the engine.
2. Left/driver's side harness connectors are best disconnected to give more wiggle room. Removal of the ECU from its bracket is also recommended. The ECU large connectors don't need to be removed, but being able to physically move the ECU around helps wrangling the wiring out of the way.
1. Pulling off the plastic cable duct from its ball-shaped retention stud. Without this step, the coils cannot be accessed. The retention stud interfaces with a rubber grommet, and it takes quite some force to remove the first time. When reassembling, wipe the thinnest film of dielectric grease on the rubber grommet, so removal next time is easy. This applies to both left and right sides of the the engine.
2. Left/driver's side harness connectors are best disconnected to give more wiggle room. Removal of the ECU from its bracket is also recommended. The ECU large connectors don't need to be removed, but being able to physically move the ECU around helps wrangling the wiring out of the way.
So, this is my second time through this thread. Lots of good info and pics. I have a 2021 turbo and after disconnecting way too many connectors with nightmares of breaking them, I put the damn thing back together for now. I talked with a Porsche tech from Main Line Porsche and he pretty much said this job is a pain in the ***. You have to remove the passenger side brace, and there is a special Porsche tool to "pull" the engine to the passenger side to get access on the driver's side... Go figure. I may just have to break down and pay to have this done. Nothing special other than having to wiggle the coils through the insulation which is no joke.
Thanks for all the steps by steps and tips for all of you.
Got my 2020 S spark plugs replaced yesterday. The old plugs didn't look too bad. But, the engine runs quite a lot smoother and more responsive. I am surprised by how much difference it made. I have 28k miles.
Took my time to slowly move around all the wire harness and stuff, still took around 2 hours. Driver side is tight, but doable. Passenger side is daunting to remove the engine mount. Turned out okay, just need all the proper length extension and M12, M10 sockets. After removing the alloy engine mount piece, popped off the harness is simple enough and has more rooms than driver side.
I bought the spark plugs using the VAG OEM, it's $62 for the kit (all six). Exact same part numbers (06M905606F) stamped on the factory ones. The Porsche branded ones are twice the price.
Quite enjoy the work in a SUV, more room to work with. Super happy with the it and save me quite a few bucks.
I'm at 45,000+ on my 2020 Cayenne e-Hybrid and well aware of the need for timely spark plug replacements on my V6 Turbo. So, I chose to start with an exploratory trip under the hood to see everything in 3D. Although I grew up rebuilding and replacing engines, what a joy this trip has been because of this thread!!!
One complication I'm presented with is I have the e-Hybrid battery cooling fluid reservoir riiiiiiight in the way of the driver's side cylinder bank. I haven't read or seen any posts where tricks to evade that bugger are described, so I thought I'd pose that question in this thread. Does anyone know whether that's going to be a speed bump, or a Mount Everest for me?
Driver's side cylinder bank. The hybrid battery cooling fluid reservoir is that white plastic tank.
Last edited by JSchilberg; Oct 17, 2024 at 06:57 PM.
Reason: Title Change
Does anyone have the torque values for the Engine support strut on the passenger side?
Torque strut (dog bone) both body and engine side 55Nm
Torque strut bracket to cylinder head 23Nm
Torque strut bracket to engine block bracket 55Nm
Torque strut engine block bracket to engine block 23Nm
Just about to hit 30,000 miles and I changed my oil and spark plugs a few minutes ago. Oil took 15 minutes (thanks extractor!) but the plugs took ~2 hours. What a pain in the ***! 4 out of the 6 were cake but those two under the brace/electrical harness on the passenger side were a nightmare.
Hey All,
I am trying to DIY on spark plug change (purchased NGK Iridium IX) on my 2018 958.2 s e-hybrid but could not find any video or instructions on how to get the brace/electrical harness shown in the photo out of my way to access the coils and plugs. All the v6 instructions I could find are based on quite different layouts. From those shared posts I can piece together other steps except for this one.
Anyone could point me to a post to remove them for this layout? Also, I wonder if 17 ft/lb (23 Nm) is still good for the plugs on this model year?? I don’t plan to put on dielectric grease as ngk and some friends advised.
Thanks!
Last edited by onlyporsche; Dec 30, 2024 at 01:59 PM.
Spark plug changes are being recommended by Porsche now every 30k miles. Just did mine and my god what a chore. Thanks to silver steel for the great information.
Just a few additions if it will help…
14mm thin walled magnetic socket from oreilley’s $8
Eautorepair.net has the 9y0 repair manuals online. $40 for year access. Detailed instructions and torque values listed.
My local dealership wanted $1700 plus costs of spark plugs - yes you read that right almost $2000 just for spark plugs.
Overall doable but pain in the rear. Took me a weeekend.
Spark plug changes are being recommended by Porsche now every 30k miles. Just did mine and my god what a chore. Thanks to silver steel for the great information.
Just a few additions if it will help…
14mm thin walled magnetic socket from oreilley’s $8
Eautorepair.net has the 9y0 repair manuals online. $40 for year access. Detailed instructions and torque values listed.
My local dealership wanted $1700 plus costs of spark plugs - yes you read that right almost $2000 just for spark plugs.
Overall doable but pain in the rear. Took me a weeekend.
Thanks for posting. The availability of an online repair manual is huge news for me. I was just about resolved that it would be next to impossible to do much work on this car myself. Hearing quotes of $2000 for spark plugs is motivation for me to put my monkey suit on and start wrenching. Almost at 60,000 miles now so your post is timely. Thanks again.
Spark plug changes are being recommended by Porsche now every 30k miles. Just did mine and my god what a chore. Thanks to silver steel for the great information.
Just a few additions if it will help…
14mm thin walled magnetic socket from oreilley’s $8
Eautorepair.net has the 9y0 repair manuals online. $40 for year access. Detailed instructions and torque values listed.
My local dealership wanted $1700 plus costs of spark plugs - yes you read that right almost $2000 just for spark plugs.
Overall doable but pain in the rear. Took me a weeekend.
Which spark plugs did you buy please? Do you have the part number handy?
How did you deal with the ECU cable blocking access to the last plastic cover nut?
I'm at 29700 miles on the GTS so this will be on my weekend chore list very soon.
I obtained a copy of Porsche certified mechanic training manual in my language (but you should be able understand the numbers). Cannot verify but looks pretty legit to me. FYI, the torque number for the engine support arm is as pic.