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transfer case teardown pictures

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Old 07-14-2018, 05:12 PM
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e30rapidic
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Default transfer case teardown pictures

I know a few of you wanted to see pictures, so here are a random assortment in no particular order. I will get them organized for a write up and edit at a later date. My chain was stretched and I had what seemed like a lot of "rust" looking stuff collected in various areas.

I had the typical symptoms; surging while accelerating, clicking/popping in the parking lot turns and the hesitation when shifting from forward to reverse. All smooth now after replacing the chain and clutches. I had a bottle of Ravenol so used that for initial break in, i'll flush it out and fill up with the Porsche stuff soon.
































Old 07-14-2018, 06:06 PM
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deilenberger
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Interesting pics. It appears the old clutch friction disks had rust on the teeth where they mate with the center hub? I can imagine that giving erratic action - and does point to the need for the improved vent kit. Was there any sign of notching on the drum that the driven plates connected to? (IE - ones with outside teeth and no friction material?) If not - that's a good sign the case is built to withstand the forces going through it. The really rusty splined shaft - I assume the rear output - where the rear driveshaft connects - that's surprisingly rusty to me. I think cleaning it up was obviously a good thing, and hopefully, you used some very sticky grease on reassembly.. Since it really isn't a sliding joint that I can see - moly probably would be overkill - but Wurth SIG 3000 is a super sticky grease I've used on lots of motorcycle spline joints and it has never allowed rust to form.

I'm looking forward to the DIY. And by the look of the differential gears on your workbench - this isn't your first rodeo..
Old 07-15-2018, 02:20 PM
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spirit49
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Awesome pictures.

I have collected all the parts at home now, and are just awaiting my appointment at the dealer. They will remove it for me, and I will rebuild while its on the lift (hopefully over the weekend).

I ordered all possible parts, including all the bearings. Do you see any troubles getting the bearings off the splines or out of the case? Or are they just kept in place by slip rings, and compression?

Shall try to make a DIY video when I do my case. Just unsure if I can make it good enough. Hopefully I can make a video that can be seen together with the Russian one on youtube. Its pretty good, but it would be great to have one from start to finish, with some english comments. I will see what I can do.

Did you do any cleaning of the case itself? Like in a parts cleaner? I guess the inside is pretty clean anyway, except the debris
Old 07-17-2018, 10:15 AM
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Eskimo1
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Good stuff! I love this.
Old 07-17-2018, 10:37 AM
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spirit49
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What would be the best way to clean up those tooth's on the spline?

Would a soft metal brush on the dremel be a possibility without introducing wear in the process?
Old 07-17-2018, 01:08 PM
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deilenberger
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Originally Posted by spirit49
What would be the best way to clean up those tooth's on the spline?

Would a soft metal brush on the dremel be a possibility without introducing wear in the process?
That should work fine. A brass brush wouldn't damage the steel splines. DO wear eye protection, those sort of brushes like to throw out bristles - and one getting in your eye can be quite serious.
Old 07-17-2018, 03:12 PM
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jtakhtalian
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Or you can try something I recently came across that works great. It's a rust dissolving gel made by Rust-Oleum. It really clings well. I picked it up at Home Depot for $10 and it worked a miracle on an old rusty steel hammer I had. You could barely tell what you were looking at before the product was applied. After a couple of hour soak, the thing looked brand new. I simply applied the product twice and used a brass bristle brush to help with the stubborn parts towards the end of the process. In fact, my hammer had a threaded cap at the end of it that wouldn't twist past the first couple of threads because the rust was so bad. After all was said and done, I can screw and unscrew the cap with absolutely no effort.

I've since been looking around the garage for more and more rusty things to clean up. Just make sure that after the cleaning process is over, you apply a good protectant of some sort. It's amazing how quickly the part will get rusty again since every shred of protection is stripped off the metal in the process.

Here's a link to the product at Auto Zone: https://m.autozone.com/paint-and-bod...gel/781939_0_0

Looks like Walmart also carries it online:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleu...Quart/44685820



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