gnat

Definitely something to correct, but not sure it's related to your issue. I would expect the issue to be more consistent (either from start or after the engine bay got up to temp). Air in the lines also leads to very rough running and stalling if not bled correctly.

Also, if air was getting in, fuel would be getting out. So if there is no sign of leaking fuel back there, it should be fine (though not ideal).

Check for that leak carefully. The Porsche documents warn against getting fuel on the coolant hoses around there as it will cause them to deteriorate and fail. That's why I make such a big deal about the rags in my DIY

r553

Gnat,
Do you know the specs on the fuel filter cover bolts? The only PET I have is from 2010.

Thanks,
Rob

gnat

As far as a size? No

All I have is the torque rating and hex size.

r553

I found the part on Pelican. It is a 5 X 9 , Porsche P/N WHT-001-455-OEM

gnat

Hah! Yeah just found it here too: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=201-35

r553

They call for only five screws which is what I have installed but there is an extra unfilled hole...huh?

r553

Do you have five or six screws in the top of your fuel filter?

gnat

Huh. Maybe you didn't have a braindead tech after all.

I noted 5 in my DIY (not including your empty hole) and sure enough I have an empty hole in the same place you do.

stronbl

r553 - I'm the one who had the cracked (turbo) boost hose on my CD. If this is what you have there should certainly be a CEL and engine warning lights flashing like crazy. But I suppose it's possible not to get it if it was not a significant power loss - doubtful but possible.

Your transmission issue is similar to mine when the boost went out. For some reason no manual shifting is allowed and it shifts only when speed is reduced (either by gravity slowing you down or braking to a slow speed). One thing to note about the cracked boost hose was that after the initial failure, it (the CD) would operate normally until engine reached full operating temp and then it would fail. I drove from El Paso, TX to SF Bay Area with it and it was not a fun nor safe drive. When I took it to the Porsche service center, about a 45 min drive, it never failed at all.

The good news is you have the 100,000 mile extended warranty so once you get it to your dealer you should be covered assuming it is not bad fuel / water as others have noted already. But I would definitely suggest you take it in and have them run diagnostics on it.

r553

Thanks. I'll have the car checked for stored codes and treat it to a new fuel filter.

r553

Today I changed the CD fuel filter using Gnat's most excellent procedure. It was a bit dark after 11K miles. I found no water or gunk in the filter housing. Car started up after some cranking since I'd emptied the filter housing. A couple of WOTs were good.




Separately after the fuel filter change the car declared it was low on AdBlue and went into the 100 mile count down to becoming a brick. I topped off the AdBlue tank but it was still complaining of low AdBlue. Off to the dealer: they feel it is the sensor/heater assembly that they will replace tomorrow. I don't see how these two activities are related in any way except by Murphy's law.

chsu74

I would turn the key to second position for 5-10 seconds to prime after replacing the fuel filter in both my diesels. Never had an issue with stumbling and multiple cranking. Just fires up.

visitador

I hope it is not the high pressure fuel pump

gnat

Glad it helped

That pic looks about what I would expect halfway through it's life. Nothing significant in the pleats I assume?

I hadn't really considered it before, but it's possible they could be related actually. This is all guess work, but as integrated as all these things are it could be plausible that the ECU seems an issue with the exhaust cleaning system and limits input to compensate. I would still expect a CEL though (especially since CELs are really about the emissions stuff these days).

I don't think that's it, but it could be plausible.

That should just be priming the system, but won't actually bleed the air from the system. Porsche has a specific manual procedure to follow (see my 6spd link posted earlier) if you don't do it via PIWIS.

Mostly it's about letting it idle after the first crank and I know from experience if you try to crank it and immediately drive, it won't be happy. So I'm guessing your "accidentally" following the procedure or at least a close enough approximation.

gnat

If it is, that extended warranty will be a very nice thing to have!