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2012 Cayenne S.
Car just won't start with the battery fully charged. When I try to start I hear a single click.. nothing else. I checked the battery and it shows 13.89v. All the lights inside including the dash, blinkers, tail light, headlights work just fine... but the engine is not getting any power I think...
I tried to jump start the car, but the car is getting no power whatsoever when I connect an external battery via the jump start terminals. Not even a single light... it's completely dead.
I think there is a disconnect between the main power distributor and the fuse box in the engine compartment. Could it be the relay 433 in the engine bay fuse box? If the relay goes bad, would it completely cut off the power to the engine?
Anyone has the wiring diagram? I'd greatly appreciate any help on this. Thanks!
I thought about the starter too...but it can't be because when I connect an external power source to the jump start terminals, the car is getting no power whatsoever. I think there is a blown fuse somewhere or disconnect between the distributor and engine bay. This problem started right after I replaced the distributor..
the car gets power when connected to its battery under the seat. Headlights and all the dash controls work just fine. But I can't start the car. When I try I just hear a single click.
I thought the engine bay is not getting power so I disconnected the battery and connected external power source at the jump terminals. Now the car gets no power at all. No lights nothing. Looks completely dead
Take a look at his 2nd photo. That's where I'd start.
Thanks. I am thinking there is a loose connection in the distributor or missing ground connection. I just can't seem to figure it out. I will get some pictures later this evening and post it. Maybe there is something obvious I am not seeing.
You didn't share with us why you have a full charge on the battery. That's good, but did something happen leading up to this to require charging the battery?
How old is the battery?
Did you mess with the main power supply switch. It is the larger slider switch underneath a carpet cutout under the driver's seat. It should be all the way to the rear. Usually not associated with a no start issue but something to check.
Did you by chance leave the key in the ignition when you pulled the battery terminals off the battery. Unhappy things have been reported in other Porsche forums when that happens.
When you tried to start the car from the jumper terminals with the battery disconnected, you may have damaged the battery voltage sensor.
While you might have +13v, what you have not shared is how it did under a load test. That can sometimes be telling? If you not done one, pull the battery and go by any autoparts supply and ask them to do one for you.
Have you checked all of the related fuses. My owners manual indicates a number of fuses that might prevent the computer responsible for the start sequence to permit the start or fuses related to the starter. Driver's side: 16, 19, 23, 33, 48; Passenger side: 9,11, 28, 45, 46,; Engine compartment: 1,3,7,9,11,13,15. These are my first look. Just ideas for you to consider. Double check the fuse amp protection as you check the candidates.
Might want to check the fusible links, power protection relay.
Here are some service notes that might help:
1. Battery sensor
NOTE: Caution when jump-lead starting: Always connect the charging cable/jump leads directly in the engine compartment as otherwise the battery sensor could be damaged.
The battery sensor is located on the negative terminal of the battery, it is part of the energy management system (battery management). The battery sensor is connected between the negative terminal of the battery and the ground cable.
The purpose of measuring the battery size is to determine the battery condition with sufficient accuracy and to identify closed-circuit current faults in vehicle electrical system diagnosis in production and service.
The following measured variables are measured directly by the sensor
Battery current
Battery voltage
Measurement of the temperature at the negative terminal
The battery current and battery voltage are measured simultaneously.
2. The flat battery must be properly connected to the vehicle electrical system.
3. After the battery is connected:
With the DME, it is necessary to carry out a learning and adaptation routine as described below:
Switch ignition on for 30 seconds without starting the engine.
Do not actuate accelerator pedal.
This completes the adaptation of the throttle valve adjusting unit.
J.R Thanks for the suggestions.
I have figured out what the problem is. It's the pyro fuse link in the distributor. When I remove the link and short circuit the terminals, the car starts just fine.
Here is the history of my car and what I am doing. My car was in an accident and the driver side airbag got deployed. So the pyro fuse link in the distributor got destroyed and the shop that was working on the car soldered the terminals to bypass the link.
here are some pictures showing that. It is also referred as BATTERY OVERLOADPROTECT FUSE AUTOMAT and battery main switch. I can't find much information on it online.
However the shop that was working on my car is permanently closed and I have the car in my garage. I was able to find an used distributor with good pyro link(at least that's what I thought) and put it on my car. Now the car won't start. Here is a picture showing the pyro link
Today I removed the link and connected the 2 terminals using a solid plate which I took from my old distributor. The car starts just fine and has about 12.8v in the jump terminals. I put the pyro link back again to check...0v at the jump start terminals. The car interior lights and headlights work just fine... just the engine bay is not getting any power. I am glad at least I know the problem is with the fusible link.
I am not sure if there is a fuse that also got destroyed when it blew the pyro link. I am going to get a new one to see if that will help.
I need to get the wiring diagram and see if there is a fuse attached to the wires connecting to the link... I visually checked all the fuses and they all look just fine. Unless the shop removed the one off of fusebox, I don't think there is a bad fuse.
Don't you just love hacks! I had the feeling there was more to this than battery. Sorry to learn of your bad luck.
If you used a shop recommended by your insurance company then maybe they will step in and take care of this properly.
Since the car was involved in a crash, and hacks were involved, there are most likely a number of "crash data" codes that Porsche shop needs to clear using a PWIS. I am not positive about this, but I know it to be true for VW Touregs. When the safety systems sense the activation of airbags, rollover or other unhappy things, the safety systems start setting codes near instantly to start turning things off like fuel pumps, etc.
The Hacks didn't own a PWIS and didn't want to tow the car over to the dealer for the PWIS fix.
usually the pyro switch knocks out the power supply. It would be ideal to have a PIWIS tester and even after replacing the pyro switch, I still might need access to the control units to reset everything... so I need to reset the system first. hmm
Don't you just love hacks! I had the feeling there was more to this than battery. Sorry to learn of your bad luck.
If you used a shop recommended by your insurance company then maybe they will step in and take care of this properly.
Since the car was involved in a crash, and hacks were involved, there are most likely a number of "crash data" codes that Porsche shop needs to clear using a PWIS. I am not positive about this, but I know it to be true for VW Touregs. When the safety systems sense the activation of airbags, rollover or other unhappy things, the safety systems start setting codes near instantly to start turning things off like fuel pumps, etc.
The Hacks didn't own a PWIS and didn't want to tow the car over to the dealer for the PWIS fix.
You're right. I have already paid the shop to do the work and the guy just disappeared. I also heard that he filed bankruptcy.. No help from insurance now. I am going to invest money on a durametric cable. I am not even 100% sure if durametric can clear the codes and reset the pyro link.
Do not forget about the fusible links. If all of your fuses are good I would check the continuity of them.
Are you sure that your new-used pyrolink is serviceable? Resistance level?
I believe it is. I purchased a new complete power distributor and everything but the pyro link seems to be working fine. When I removed the pyro fuse and made a static connection, the car started just fine. There is no way to be sure though. I will call durametric tomorrow and find out if their tool can help.
05-25-2016, 12:08 AM
Cayenne S 958 - no start no jump start power
