jay958

So decided to change pads at 39k, I read some of the posts but there are a few things I want to add

For 958, mine is 2011, removing the caliper only requires removing the two spline nuts, don't bother going to autozone, oreilly, ace hardware, Home Depot, sears or advance auto, yeah, you are welcome I tried them all none of them carries this XZN set, just buy from Amazon, I chose the cheapest set, 21 bucks.

Then another very nice thing you should buy is the Lang Tools 279 brake caliper press, saved me big headache because of the quad Pistons enclosed caliper, you can't use the cheapo clamp to get between ththe pistons, and because 958's new design, you don't have a lip on the pads like 955 where you can put a big mold plier to squeeze th pads. See the image, it's that thing with the red handle, for th front and the back, if you can push the tool in between ththe pads, you can spread it till Pistons go back, if not, remove one of the old pads, take out th shim and put it back to aid the tool, I had to use a shim for ththe rear cuz the rear Pistons went too far out can't push the tool in.
Lastly, unlike 955, there is no need to remove the springs when removing pads, all you need to take out is the pads, wiggle them out of the pad guide pillars, when you put the new ones in, lube the top and bottom holes, I use white lithium grease on the holes and the Pistons, work the pads in it takes some elbow grease to push the pads against the springs, the silver metal pieces, while aligning the holes together.
First time doing 958 pads, all four wheels took me 6 hours including unpacking new pads, clean Pistons, clean calipers, 80 grit scuff the rotors, put wheels back on and use motive 1109 to bleed all wheels, two rounds, first round like the manual, front left front right rear right rear left, second round the old fashion way from rear right rear left front right front left, got one tiny bubble out.
By the way the bleeder screw takes 11mm, I use the ate 200 dot 4 nice and clean flush the whole system with one liter jug.
Anyway, my first time sharing this stuff just figure want to be helpful, if I miss anything, leave me a question I will try to help

jay958

Sorry first time posting not sure why the images did not load completely

jay958

The set is an aboslute life saver

jay958

Again sorry for my poor posting skills, if you can see the top and bottom cylinders, those do not need to be removed, wiggle the pads out of those pillars when you put the new pads in remember to lube the two holes that way you can push the new pads in easier

jay958

If you are like me, clean the calipers and clean the wheels every once In a while before and after makes big difference

tgavem

More info here

https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...1-cayenne.html

jay958

thanks tgavem, i just called the stealership and asked them for a quote for a brake job cuz i am curious how much ive saved.. they wanted 2500 bucks for all 4 rotors all 8 pads.. and they want 275 for a brake fluid flush, 700 bucks for all spark plugs, 1800 for entire 40k service haha i am happy now

SoCalDan

Thanks for posting. Do you also do your own oil changes? And if so, what system do you use to reset the service light? I've heard some Rennlisters have had luck with eBay devices instead of using the Durametric system.

jay958

when i bought it at 38k miles the stealership already did an oil change, ive yet to do another one, consider durametric for long term, but if you have a better choice please do let me know
try this

jay958

try this

jay958

try this

jay958

[QUOTE="SoCalDan;12843143"]Thanks for posting.
try this

Zingari

Jay - Good write up thanks.

What were your rotors (discs) like @38k miles? I'm on 39k now and whilst I will need to change the pads soon I've noticed that the front rotors are starting to wear with a lip be created on the outer outside edge.

I'm tempted to go for a dealer 40k service to keep the history up to date (as its a big issue in the UK come resale), despite a dealer oil change 4 months and 4k miles ago (whcih they might agree not to repeat) but I know they will flag up the brakes and I aint paying their prices for labour.

What make of pads did you go for?

jay958

i am not too worried about the maintenance history i am going to keep it for another 5 years by that time history wont matter much on resale.

i saw similar "lip" on my rotors but those lips went away after 200 so miles on the new pads.
many helpful souls would want you to replace rotors along with your new pads and claim your brake wont function with just new pads and old rotors. thats a myth.. rotors as long as their thickness met the spec, i would not resurface them as that would cut down on their thickness and thus make them more vulnerable to be warped. just scuff down the surface and let the new pads develop new teeth on the rotors.
to argue for the other side though, new pads with new rotors would significantly shorten the breakin period, 50 miles or so you would have your 100% brake power back; i am on average speed of 30 or so mph thanks to the bad chicago traffic most of the time and did not bother finding a deserted road to speed up the breakin. anyway enough said you'll be the judge.
i am using power stop Z16 ceramic for both front and back, they were made by stoptech factories just under different names

bweSteve

Although there is truth to advantages of keeping the same pad type material (on existing rotors). There is truth to "mating" of material types to surfaces. just sayin'.

your comments are accurate enough for most tho,... so rock on. decisions decisions....