The one they installed is part number 958 611 105 21. That battery has been replaced by 9A7915089B.

 

i jad the same type of problems look at the fuse box and see if there is traces of water rhey have a windscreen leaking priblem and be aware that the leather on the dash may start to lift and the insurance company wont repair it as i have found out bit it sends weird signals ypu may have to clean all the fuse box so they get good contacts again it has happened to me with 2 cayenne turbos

 

My 10M Triple-Square bit showed up today so I was finally able to lay eyes on the battery. My god it looks brand new. I'm going to check the fuse box tonight for dampness, but I doubt this is my issue. I removed those stupid gaskets long ago so water doesn't build up on top of debris, plus it's inside a garage 99% of the time.

I've also purchased a dedicated battery maintainer as I'm pretty annoyed that my $900 battery replacement job from Porsche lasted 2.5 years (assuming the battery is in fact no good anymore). The car isn't parked for more than a week at a time, so I didn't think I needed a maintainer. But I'll sure use one now.

For reference, the battery is a Varta AGM, VW part # 000 915 105 CF.

I plan on replacing it with this Duralast https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...chText=battery

The only difference being 5 less Ah, and I'm not positive if my current one is H8 or H9. From other threads it sounds like an H9 will fit without any modifications.

 

Good news plus some annoying news.

The new battery is in. Duralast H9-AGM, 100 Ah. Had the car hooked up to a 12v power supply during swap so I never lost memory. The hardest part of the entire operation was finding a suitable battery locally.

Now the annoying part.

Using my iCarsoft diagnostic tool, I attempted to register the battery. iCarsoft has a BMS module so I hoped I'd be okay here. But as I got into it, it forces you into pre-populated lists. The first list, Amp Hours, does not include an option for 100 Ah AGM. Had to select either 95 or 105. Then it's a preset list of manufacturers, which does not include Duralast. Then asking for the part number, it doesn't accept the battery part number. So I couldn't register the battery. As far as the car knows, it's still the old battery. I worried this may happen, because how could the tool or the car keep up with changes to the battery market? I don't even see how PWIS would solve for this unless they're constantly updating it to include new batteries that come onto the market. Seems like a stupid system.

Hopefully the lack of registration doesn't affect my electrical systems or battery life.

 

Do a search, somewhere on this forum I remember lot's of discussion about this. There's a way to fool it by entering in a certain number of digits.

 

I’ve changed the battery twice and never registered it, with no problems as a result. Lots of threads on this topic.

 

I've read through a good bit of them too.

I ended up selecting 105 Ah, 'Reserve1' as the manufacturer, a serial number from someone else's Cayenne battery, and my old battery part number. That all was accepted and the update completed.

So while it may not be perfect, it's done.

 

Well, the door locking issue has not resolved. It happened twice within 60 seconds today.

I checked both cabin fuse boxes and they're bone dry. Also checked the fuses for the central locking system, all good.

So I'm back to square one.

 

Bumping this for additional input.

The locks are still actuating several times per drive.

I have not received the yellow warning lights again though, so maybe those were due to a bad battery and the locks are a separate root cause? To be fair, I have only put maybe 25 miles on it since I replaced the battery.

The dealership suggested it could be the Steering Wheel Control Unit, but I had that replaced in February, 2023.

Any ideas?

 

Just thinking out loud. Might try going in the Multifunction Display (MFD), seeing what the auto lock setting is set to, and then turn off the autolocking and see what happens during the next drive. Not sure if you have Comfort Entry, but if so, I would explore that too. Vehicle/Settings/Locking

If it goes quiet, then try locking and unlocking using the cockpit manual lock button during the test drive and see what happens.

If it is still behaving, then go back into the MFD and set the auto lock to your preferred setting and continue the test

I will not have access to my PIWIS for another week, so I can not look up if the module that controls the locking can be reset and/or reprogrammed.

 

Copy. I didn't even know this was a configurable setting. I will check on this plus I learned I can use my diagnostic tool to check things related to the Body Control Module (BCM) which could cause this.

Comfort Entry isn't listed as an option on my build sheet, but I do have Entry & Drive.

 

You probably have Comfort Entry. I was actually thinking about the Entry & Drive setting. Not sure if it is driver configurable and are door locking is covered in it.

 

I noticed this morning that the locks engage every time I hit 5 mph (accelerating, not decelerating). ChatGPT is convinced one or more of the door lock mechanisms has failed and needs to be replaced. It gave me some tips for identifying which door, none of which seem great.

Does this track as the likely root cause?

 

The locking at 5 mph sound like you have the lock settings accessed through the mfd set to lock "after drive-off'.

Try changing the setting to "off" then test it. Then try changing the setting to "after ign on" then test it

 

Lock the Cayenne and check each door then unlock and check each door. If one fails the test then you have a bad door lock actuator. I have a bad one but I don't experience any random locking issues while driving that you describe. My car locks automatically when I drive off and reach 5 or 10 mph. Its a setting like CAVU described. I haven't got around to replace the actuator, I just open the door from the inside on the rare occasion I need i the back seat passenger side and remember to lock it manually afterwards (on the keyhole on the inside of the doors jam) otherwise it just stays locked 98% of the time so the car always locks with the remote. I'll probably do it this coming summer but its low priority. So I kinda feel like a bad actuator is not the issue. Go through checking the door locks and the settings CAVU stated above and report back.

Have you checked your key fob battery? I only ask because that is the one other thing that can make the locks activate. Maybe put a fresh battery in the remote to rule that out and make sure you don't sit on it! I kept my audi key in my pocket and activated the alarm by sitting on it weird while I was trying to grab something in the passenger area once