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+6000 reviews, Amazon, search "car battery tester",
$25, KONNWEI KW208 12V Car Battery Tester, 100-2000 CCA Load Tester Automotive Alternator Tester Digital Auto Battery Analyzer Charging Cranking System Tester for Truck Marine Motorcycle SUV Boat
The only thing that occurred was my wife took car to be detailed. She drove home fine. No gadgets attached, correct key fob, will put a voltmeter on it, don’t have a ‘tester’, I’ll look for a chassis lug?, I’ll check the manual for fuse locations, I do belong to AAA So could have them test.
I did check with a voltmeter and it shows like 11.5V
called one of the local Porsche shops and they "think" its a key not recognized and immobilzer issue
i did check with a voltmeter and it shows like 11.5V called one of the local Porsche shops and they "think" its a key not recognized and immobilzer issue
11.5V is not good but more info is recommended/needed. The battery tester we talked about yesterday can tell you more about the battery regarding amps. It is a tool that once you have it, will be used often.
Any idea how old the battery is?
Regarding the dealership thoughts, without the proper voltage and amp capacity a battery provides to all of the modules, then the modules will behave erratically. Address the battery first.
any recommendations for a charger specifications for what is a flat line battery 10A 20A ???
I do not own one of these, but it claims to have a Force mode that you can start charging a dead battery that is at 0 volts. They also sell a 5 amp version.
Spoke with local guy, thinks it might be some sort of breaker on top of battery. Since battery tests at close to 12V, won’t respond to jump, but not immobilizer
Spoke with local guy, thinks it might be some sort of breaker on top of battery. Since battery tests at close to 12V, won’t respond to jump, but not immobilizer
I do not recall seeing any form of breaker in the battery compartment or any discussions on the forum. There is a battery disconnect that gets fired during an accident, but that is not your case.
Big difference between 12V and the 11.5V you cited earlier when it comes to battery amps available
Really need to do the conductance test (the tool I recommended does it). Years ago, I sampled specific gravity from each cell, and sometimes would do a load test with a pile to evaluate battery health. No more. Cells are sealed. While the conductance test is not all knowing, it tells me all I need to know. Good discussion here: https://www.franklingrid.com/en/this...w-to-apply-it/
To be clear, I am not saying that the battery is THE problem. My recommendation is to make sure you have a healthy battery before troubleshooting any further.
Earlier you asked about how to access the seat with a dead battery. I suspect that a Porsche shop would simply connect up their high amp power supply to the jumper terminals and at 100 amps output would overcome the battery's issue long enough to move the seats. A 100 amp from a reputable supplier is about $350-$400.
Sooooo, here is a thought based on your earlier post about accessing the longitudinal motor. I have never done this. Proceed with that knowledge and maybe someone who has done it will speak up.
Using the pics, locate the motor. It is a simple 12V motor that drives both sides via a single shaft that runs through the motor. After accessing the two male blade connectors on the motor, use about 6' of alligator jumper cables, connect each separate cable to each male blade. 6' because you do not want to short anything out using too short of a jumper wire. You can get these through Amazon. Then get access to a 12V source (wife's car via jumper cables...BE CAREFUL with the loose ends of the jumper cables) and touch one alligator to a 12v source terminal while touching the other to the other 12v source terminal. If the seat goes the wrong direction then reverse the connections at the 12v source and move it the other direction. I believe there are limiters built into the seat that are not part of this jumped circuit so stop the movement so as to not break something. I would simply get the room you need at the front, stop, then the rear and stop.
I did pull the pigtail off and tried to measure voltage and polarity across those wires while going fore and aft with the seat switch. Got some low voltage so there might be some smarts in the seat circuit board checking for something before it sends 12V...I just do not know.
Here is a DIY to access the battery compartment: https://rennlist.com/forums/diy-caye...nt-access.html
Ignore the section regarding 12v to the OBD to retain memory. Simply follow the couple of instructions in the owners manual regarding resetting a couple of items. Easy stuff.
Once you have it all back together, when you go to slide the motor's wire harness back on, push the harness against the motor, pull it away slightly, then slide it over the male blades. You will feel a click. Give it a gentle wiggle. If it easily moves and pops off, try again.
Bought and put on the battery analyzer
shows 12.9 Volts
459 CCA
"Battery Good"
so........... must be a different issue
at least for now maybe the whole seat thing problem can be put aside but the mystery continues
any thoughts about what to check next??
Rats!!! Normally I do not wish a bad battery on someone but in your case I was hoping it would be that simple.
Did your new tool provide a SOH and SOC percentage?
There have been electrical issues caused by wet wire under the driver's foot well carpet corroding and rotting away. Water source is either from a clogged sunroof drain or a clogger cowl drain.
Might be worth lifting that carpet up in that area for a look see at that wiring.
...and/or...
If you find nothing, you might access the negative/ground connection in the driver's footwell nearest the seat, under a precut piece of carpet. Check that the key is not in the ignition. Disconnect it and leave it be for an hour. This will drain all of the module's capacitors. Reconnect the negative/ground. This will cause a complete reboot of the modules. Wait a few minutes and give the key in the ignition a try.
With that, I am at a loss, but I am no Porsche Tech. It might be time to find a Porsche dealer and get the car towed to them. I hate saying that.
not sure what SOH and SOC are but i'll check the carpet now
understand, If it was the battery at least it is a more simple solution
is there some kind of fuse particularly that I should be investigating as well?
can't really lift up carpet in footwell but everything feels dry to the touch
checked the negative ground under small flap, all okay
lifted part of the batter cover carpet (that I can access) all dry under there too.
still only get door foot light and headlights on when trying to turn the key
replaced fob battery, took out dummy, put key in and tried, nope nada
Recommend not just and inspection but take the nut off the negative ground lug and lift the ground cable out of that area and keep it from touching anything for about an hour. Then reattach to the lug with its nut.
05-30-2024, 10:52 PM
