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I'm going to be looking forward to your updates going forward as you have 100,000 miles on my 2016 CD that has almost 100,000 miles on it now.
My wife has a 2015 Touareg TDI that has 96,000 miles on it and both trucks have proven to be quite reliable with most all the issues coming from check engine lights and covered under the dieselgate extended warranty.
As time has been going on and the miles in my 2016 CD have been increasing, I have been finding that the MPG have been increasing on the highway, not by all that much, but even a 1-2 mpg increase is nice to see, even if it is optimistic, I'm sure if I did the manual calculation, there would still be a slight increase compared to the trucks earlier life.
Please keep updating us on your CD as the miles pile up.
So I was able to get an endoscope down through the intake manifold and grab a few shots. From what I can tell, no pooling of coolant, but some serious oil splatter. Shortly after I bought the car, I was checking the Oil Level via the in car display and it was at the minimum line, I added one quart and it's where it should be.
Over the past five days I had to add a few ounces of water to the coolant so the dash warning would go off, the level was just below the prongs inside the coolant reservoir. Today I added probably about a quart of coolant to see how many miles or time I can get by before the warning comes back. I believe this will tell me just how quickly I need to get everything together to replace seals and potentially delete EGR.
This of course wasn't something I was anticipating having to do so quickly, as I had a couple other things preventative maintenance wise I wished to get into. However, I knew this issue could be a probability during ownership.
Back side of oil cooler Right side of oil cooler I believe was where I was at here More oil seeping.
I guess the biggest question I have is, beyond the oil that may be coming from the oil cooler, is there anywhere else here that could be causing the oil spattering?
So I was able to get an endoscope down through the intake manifold and grab a few shots. From what I can tell, no pooling of coolant, but some serious oil splatter. Shortly after I bought the car, I was checking the Oil Level via the in car display and it was at the minimum line, I added one quart and it's where it should be.
Over the past five days I had to add a few ounces of water to the coolant so the dash warning would go off, the level was just below the prongs inside the coolant reservoir. Today I added probably about a quart of coolant to see how many miles or time I can get by before the warning comes back. I believe this will tell me just how quickly I need to get everything together to replace seals and potentially delete EGR.
This of course wasn't something I was anticipating having to do so quickly, as I had a couple other things preventative maintenance wise I wished to get into. However, I knew this issue could be a probability during ownership.
Back side of oil cooler Right side of oil cooler I believe was where I was at here More oil seeping.
I guess the biggest question I have is, beyond the oil that may be coming from the oil cooler, is there anywhere else here that could be causing the oil spattering?
Which gap did you insert your scope into? I’m trying to trouble shoot a similiar coolant loose on my CD, but the few spots I pushed a boroscope into were blocked before I could down all the way to the V-pan Thanks!
Which gap did you insert your scope into? I’m trying to trouble shoot a similiar coolant loose on my CD, but the few spots I pushed a boroscope into were blocked before I could down all the way to the V-pan Thanks!
Only real luck I had was from above along the EGR valve assembly. I can't recall exactly where. I'll hopefully be able to let you know in a couple days. It wasn't easily accessible, I had to play around for a good 30 minutes just to get down that low and get something in focus. Ideally I would have liked to see if there was any leakage from the EGR valve. I believe that is where most people say they are seeing the failure and the coolant leak. I know that when I went in to look, I had just driven the car for 25 minutes and I saw no coolant puddling by the cooler nor could I smell it.
Picked up a Foxwell NT530 and pulled some codes. I'm not sure whether I will stick with this scanner, so if anyone has recommendations on something else that is economical and capable of coding please let me know. You'll see some notes below how some of my codes may be self-induced by LED bulb replacements for steering light, and the door lights, if that is indeed what the code is referencing. I'll at times get a quick indicator when starting the car for the static cornering light but it immediately goes off. The lights work just fine in operation so I don't know if it's an impedance issue or not, and if there is coding that can address this.
80580B - Static cornering light power supply, open circuit (NOTE: Replaced with LED, could be cause of fault)
00001E- Motor right, open circuit (Rear lid Control System)( NOTE: Tailgate opens, but then slowly releases downward to about 3/4 open)
880B0E- Daytime driving light, left, faulty (Assuming this will require replacement of whole assembly, may just replace both and have matching pair/brightness)
801403- Front-wiper interval switch, signal implausible - (Unsure about this one)
881202- Key battery flat (Assuming this is for my remote)
So now I know likely I'll be adding to the list new daytime driving lights, and replacing the right tailgate strut or both. If anyone has any idea what the front-wiper interval switch issue is please let me know. I've used my wipers several times over the past few weeks and have had no issues.
Adding updates to my journey, all though not too far from where I started in miles. Currently at 199,357 with the most recent work effective today.
Put all new Pirelli All Season Plus 3 on, I decided to get this in as the Pirelli's on the car from purchase had little life left to them, and figured why not do this before the car has its 200k miles birthday. Additionally, because of the oil leak, the whole reason the car was in the shop to begin with, I had the following parts replaced in the valley to fix my coolant and oil leak. I debated heavily whether I would do the EGR leak, but I opted to just keep it OEM spec for now. I still anticipate doing a tune at some point, so maybe I will do the Dynamic EGR when I do Tunezilla Stage 2.
$225 in parts thru FCP Euro, some delays due to stock avail some intake manifold gaskets. The labor for the job came to $570, and the only additional material required on the shops end was some coolant. All in all I can't complain at all, $900 parts and labor on my end to get this job done. Most of what is observed here is the same mess that most of have seen when they remove the EGR and cooler.
11-03-2023, 08:46 AM
