First Porsche - Transmission Issue?
08-23-2023, 05:52 PM
#17
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Alright, so officially not a single shop in Las Vegas will touch the vehicle without running a full diagnostic to see WHY they need to reset the adaptations.
Is there some verbiage that I'm supposed to be using to get these guys to reset it? I dont want to buy the tool and then have that be the only time I ever use it again.
Is there some verbiage that I'm supposed to be using to get these guys to reset it? I dont want to buy the tool and then have that be the only time I ever use it again.
Last edited by Twenty_One; 08-23-2023 at 06:12 PM.
08-23-2023, 06:16 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
You ever try resetting the throttle adaptations. you can do that without any tools in your driveway. Maybe that will hep with the transmission a little. Never know
08-23-2023, 06:21 PM
#19
https://www.blauparts.com/blog/how-t...d-8-speed.html
I will say, after changing the atf fluid shifts were much smoother but it wasn't until I reset the transmission adaptations did some clunks go away mostly. Clunks still happen occasionally on my Cayenne S, if that puts your mind more at ease.
08-24-2023, 10:11 AM
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Alright, so here is the update/plan:
The smell in the AC is solved. I sprayed the coils and got some nasty black crap out. It may need one more spray in the future, as I can still faintly smell some of the musty odor but at least I know the solution.
The second owner only had the vehicle for about 7k miles and he told me that all he did was cabin filter and intake filters. After finding that the cabin filter was installed with the flow backwards, and the cover/seal was broken, I figured it was a good idea to check the intake filters. Both filters had damaged seals, as he didn't fully remove the flex tube and tried to mash the airbox back together and pierced the seals with the lower locking tabs where the boxes mate. The filters are still functional and seal correctly, although mangled.
HOWEVER...he didn't fully install the flex tube on the left air box. The hose clamp was very loose and out of position. The tube was slightly on the inlet of the air box but high pressure intake suction could easily have pulled in "dust", which in the desert means tiny rocks.
I found a shop that will reset the transmission adaptations after I change the trans fluid and filter. They're also going to take care of the control arm bushings. (Some highway vibration is going on)
This will only happen if the trans fluid is free of evidence that the transmission is shredding itself.
So before I spend this time and money, would it be a good idea to have the mechanic check the bore for scoring? Not sure if they're going to charge me like
crazy for that. I understand that once the scoring starts, the engine is a ticking time bomb.
The smell in the AC is solved. I sprayed the coils and got some nasty black crap out. It may need one more spray in the future, as I can still faintly smell some of the musty odor but at least I know the solution.
The second owner only had the vehicle for about 7k miles and he told me that all he did was cabin filter and intake filters. After finding that the cabin filter was installed with the flow backwards, and the cover/seal was broken, I figured it was a good idea to check the intake filters. Both filters had damaged seals, as he didn't fully remove the flex tube and tried to mash the airbox back together and pierced the seals with the lower locking tabs where the boxes mate. The filters are still functional and seal correctly, although mangled.
HOWEVER...he didn't fully install the flex tube on the left air box. The hose clamp was very loose and out of position. The tube was slightly on the inlet of the air box but high pressure intake suction could easily have pulled in "dust", which in the desert means tiny rocks.
I found a shop that will reset the transmission adaptations after I change the trans fluid and filter. They're also going to take care of the control arm bushings. (Some highway vibration is going on)
This will only happen if the trans fluid is free of evidence that the transmission is shredding itself.
So before I spend this time and money, would it be a good idea to have the mechanic check the bore for scoring? Not sure if they're going to charge me like
crazy for that. I understand that once the scoring starts, the engine is a ticking time bomb.
08-24-2023, 10:33 AM
#21
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Sorry, I didn't catch this reply. I have not tried that. I'll look into the process. In sport mode, it's tough to take off from a full stop gently. It just GOES. Throttle adaptations might smooth that out.
08-24-2023, 07:38 PM
#22
Race Director
Alright, so here is the update/plan:
The smell in the AC is solved. I sprayed the coils and got some nasty black crap out. It may need one more spray in the future, as I can still faintly smell some of the musty odor but at least I know the solution.
The second owner only had the vehicle for about 7k miles and he told me that all he did was cabin filter and intake filters. After finding that the cabin filter was installed with the flow backwards, and the cover/seal was broken, I figured it was a good idea to check the intake filters. Both filters had damaged seals, as he didn't fully remove the flex tube and tried to mash the airbox back together and pierced the seals with the lower locking tabs where the boxes mate. The filters are still functional and seal correctly, although mangled.
HOWEVER...he didn't fully install the flex tube on the left air box. The hose clamp was very loose and out of position. The tube was slightly on the inlet of the air box but high pressure intake suction could easily have pulled in "dust", which in the desert means tiny rocks.
I found a shop that will reset the transmission adaptations after I change the trans fluid and filter. They're also going to take care of the control arm bushings. (Some highway vibration is going on)
This will only happen if the trans fluid is free of evidence that the transmission is shredding itself.
So before I spend this time and money, would it be a good idea to have the mechanic check the bore for scoring? Not sure if they're going to charge me like
crazy for that. I understand that once the scoring starts, the engine is a ticking time bomb.
The smell in the AC is solved. I sprayed the coils and got some nasty black crap out. It may need one more spray in the future, as I can still faintly smell some of the musty odor but at least I know the solution.
The second owner only had the vehicle for about 7k miles and he told me that all he did was cabin filter and intake filters. After finding that the cabin filter was installed with the flow backwards, and the cover/seal was broken, I figured it was a good idea to check the intake filters. Both filters had damaged seals, as he didn't fully remove the flex tube and tried to mash the airbox back together and pierced the seals with the lower locking tabs where the boxes mate. The filters are still functional and seal correctly, although mangled.
HOWEVER...he didn't fully install the flex tube on the left air box. The hose clamp was very loose and out of position. The tube was slightly on the inlet of the air box but high pressure intake suction could easily have pulled in "dust", which in the desert means tiny rocks.
I found a shop that will reset the transmission adaptations after I change the trans fluid and filter. They're also going to take care of the control arm bushings. (Some highway vibration is going on)
This will only happen if the trans fluid is free of evidence that the transmission is shredding itself.
So before I spend this time and money, would it be a good idea to have the mechanic check the bore for scoring? Not sure if they're going to charge me like
crazy for that. I understand that once the scoring starts, the engine is a ticking time bomb.
08-24-2023, 09:46 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
He's worried that granules could have been sucked in when the snorkel was not connected properly. I say go borrow a camera from Autozone or some auto parts store and do it yourself.
Last edited by RAudi Driver; 09-21-2023 at 04:58 PM.
08-24-2023, 10:19 PM
#24
Intermediate
Thread Starter
09-21-2023, 03:10 PM
#25
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Well it's at the second shop and they have both recommended transmission replacement.
The vibration is caused by a few things - engine mount, trans mount, torque rod mount, both lower control arms.
They're also recommending I replace the front struts and the brake pads and rotors(I definitely know the pads are nearly dead and planned on doing this anyway)
They are saying that the transmission downshifts really hard on hard braking. The cost to tear it down and find the issue and fix it would likely be similar to the cost of a used transmission (around $4000).
Looks like no matter which way I slice it, I'm losing a bunch of money on this temporary Cayenne. I should have just waited and grabbed a newer 958 Turbo which was the end goal anyway.
Is it worth it to have them replace the fluid and reset the adaptations in hopes that it's a solution? Should I spend the extra $500 to have them do the trans filter as well?
The vibration is caused by a few things - engine mount, trans mount, torque rod mount, both lower control arms.
They're also recommending I replace the front struts and the brake pads and rotors(I definitely know the pads are nearly dead and planned on doing this anyway)
They are saying that the transmission downshifts really hard on hard braking. The cost to tear it down and find the issue and fix it would likely be similar to the cost of a used transmission (around $4000).
Looks like no matter which way I slice it, I'm losing a bunch of money on this temporary Cayenne. I should have just waited and grabbed a newer 958 Turbo which was the end goal anyway.
Is it worth it to have them replace the fluid and reset the adaptations in hopes that it's a solution? Should I spend the extra $500 to have them do the trans filter as well?
09-21-2023, 03:21 PM
#26
I think all 958's downshift really hard on hard braking. Someone started a thread about it recently, I can't find it, but the conclusion was "toyota trans doesn't like hard braking".
Can you make a video...based on what you're saying, your car is operating as designed. A little slow to take off when not in Sport, rough downshift when braking hard - sounds like every 958.
before you do anything else though, I would go drive another used, V8, non-trubo 958 and see if it exhibits all the things you're saying.
Can you make a video...based on what you're saying, your car is operating as designed. A little slow to take off when not in Sport, rough downshift when braking hard - sounds like every 958.
before you do anything else though, I would go drive another used, V8, non-trubo 958 and see if it exhibits all the things you're saying.
09-21-2023, 03:52 PM
#27
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I think all 958's downshift really hard on hard braking. Someone started a thread about it recently, I can't find it, but the conclusion was "toyota trans doesn't like hard braking".
Can you make a video...based on what you're saying, your car is operating as designed. A little slow to take off when not in Sport, rough downshift when braking hard - sounds like every 958.
before you do anything else though, I would go drive another used, V8, non-trubo 958 and see if it exhibits all the things you're saying.
Can you make a video...based on what you're saying, your car is operating as designed. A little slow to take off when not in Sport, rough downshift when braking hard - sounds like every 958.
before you do anything else though, I would go drive another used, V8, non-trubo 958 and see if it exhibits all the things you're saying.
Last edited by Twenty_One; 09-21-2023 at 04:15 PM.
09-21-2023, 05:00 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
I think all 958's downshift really hard on hard braking. Someone started a thread about it recently, I can't find it, but the conclusion was "toyota trans doesn't like hard braking".
Can you make a video...based on what you're saying, your car is operating as designed. A little slow to take off when not in Sport, rough downshift when braking hard - sounds like every 958.
before you do anything else though, I would go drive another used, V8, non-trubo 958 and see if it exhibits all the things you're saying.
Can you make a video...based on what you're saying, your car is operating as designed. A little slow to take off when not in Sport, rough downshift when braking hard - sounds like every 958.
before you do anything else though, I would go drive another used, V8, non-trubo 958 and see if it exhibits all the things you're saying.
